lead foot 85 vet

been dealing with engine leaks for years now......I'm **** about keeping a no leak from anywhere car....been looking at my options for crankcase evacuation, I think Aarons running a header system but when it came up he got beat up because forum members said it was for open header system only..........well gents it's working for me...true dual exhaust system, no cats, borla............at idle it draws real well. I put 450 miles on it this weekend and no..........no leaking....woo hoo........no oil consumption ether.............so far so good and only 35 bucks for the kit

mn_vette

Very cool,

Do you have a website link to the kit you bought? I'm thinking of trying something like this on my car. Although it would be only a single in my downpipe. I think I'm getting an oil leak from my turbo at boost. I think the crank pressure is not letting it drain very well.

lead foot 85 vet

I bought it from Jegs

themonkeyoflife

i presume you mean you bought this kit

720-6002

as an aside these actually work really well i have used 2 of them and as soon as i buy my new heads im putting them on this car

AKS Racing

I did run these on my car from the beginning. They work real well at an idle (pop, pop, ). However, once your exhaust starts getting any amount of backpressure, they will actually start pressurizing the crankcase. This began to happen to me with the old 355.

When I went with the larger motor and the D1R, this bacame a real issue, so I have removed the evac system (valves and -12A/N with fittings still in a box somewhere), and I simply vent through vc breathers.

One thing to consider is the more restrictive the exhaust, the less effective the crankcase evac system will be. So conversely, ... the closer you are to something like open headers, the more effective the evac system will become.
Aaron

86VX1

i know that oil leaking is the problem, but i do not understand how you guys resolved this issue. What is crankcase evacuation? i think i might have this problem on my 406 vet. when i drop the hammer, i get this annoying leak that i have not been able to trace. i replaced all the gaskets underneath an the problem persists. how bad'*** an engine do you have to have, to have this problem? how does this part help this problem? any help is appreciated.

Brand-X

I disagree. The evac system will work with exhaust pressure present as long as the exhaust has velocity when it is passing over the evac oriface. The evacuation pumps on ships work on the same principal and I've had over 150 psi inside one (fire main pressure) with two atmosphers of water pressure on the discharge outlet and it still pulled an excellent vacuum (26-28 inches). The pressure inside the pipe is less consequential than the speed of the water passing over the evacuation oriface. If you took a submarine down to crush depth and the evac pump outlet had 1000 psi on it, as long as you had enough pressure to overcome the sea pressure (i.e., 1100 psi) and had adequate flow across the evac oriface, it will pull a vacuum...even with there being 1100 psi in the pump case. If the evac oriface isn't installed correctly, it will not draw a vacuum and pressure, if there were no check valves, could backup into the engine--it would act more like it was tee into the exhaust header. The issue as I see it is: if you have more blowby at wot than the evac system can pull, it won't prevent the crankcase from becoming pressurized.

lead foot 85 vet

well I haven't really beat it but 400 miles at 2700 rpm and it worked like a charm..............maybe at 6500 rpm it will have some back pressure .......what rpm was causing your problem aaron?...I have boosted it with no ill effect so far.............as soon as I get my alcohol injection installed I'll thrash it some, right now I'm quiting at about 4000 rpm or so.

AKS Racing

Brand-X,
I thought that it should work as well, but at WOT, the crankcase on my previous motor built considerable pressure with the evac system. I installed a psi guage in the line so that I could monitor the system. You could watch it go from vacuum to psi as you went past 4500 RPM. The pitot tube was installed per Moroso's instruction. I talked to tech at Moroso, and they stated that these kits are not designed to work on full exhaust systems (as mentioned in Moroso's instructions with the kit). You can buy the kits cheap from either Jegs or Summit.

86VX1,
The evac system is merely a "pitot tube" mounted in the header collector. Due to the location at an angle to the exhaust gas flow, it creates a low psi area inside the tube, which draws a vacuum from that tube. The tube is connected to one of the valve covers. It will draw "significant" vacuum at an idle, but in my experience it would not pull vacuum under WOT.

Lead Foot,
I am glad that you are seeing positive results (or maybe I should say negative, as in vacuum) with your evac system on your car. I would be interested to see your comments following a few WOT passes. I'm hoping it works out for you. BTW, what exhaust are you running? Close to straight pipes? What engine size?

Aaron

106mm

In racing applications, I've seen electric vacuum pumps show up to 20 HP increases. They produce MUCH more vacuum than a crankcase evacuation system and maintain it through the entire RPM range, though.

mn_vette

I'd really like to find a set that screws into an O2 bung so I don't have to keep it in there if I don't like them. Does anybody know of a set like that??

Maybe this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Jaxian

I was going to try to use these on my blown 406 after melting a piston in my last motor to blowby blowing all the oil out of the motor on a extended high speed run. I had used them on my old Pro Street 9 second duster but it had fenderwell headers and all of about 2 feet of exhaust pipe and supertrapps with no ends on them. So not a very restrictive exhaust. But after reading all the negative feedback on them I left them uninstalled when I put the motor in. I love the moroso crank driven kit but that says it's race only and says it must be serviced regularly, like a complete rebuild on a street car every week. and it's stunningly expensive and would be a nightmare to put on a normal street car.

The last thing I was going to try was when looking at a buddies 03 Mustang Cobra with the roots type supercharger on it, it seems to have a electric crankcase evac system. There was a little electric pump hooked up to lines going to the crankcase. I haven't looked any deeper into it than that but if I could buy a factory built part that was designed to do just the job I want, even if built by Ford, that would be a nice solution. So if anyone has any experience with one of these crankcase pumps on the supercharged factory mustangs please pass it along.

Brand-X

My wife has an '03 Cobra...I'm going to see if she'll let me pop the hood and poke around. Maybe I can find a part number or something.

AKS Racing

You guys kill me! She might think you are trying to sabotage the Cobra.

neat

Couldn't you build a system using an O2 bung plug and a 'Y' shaped dipstick tube?

It would be pretty easy to add an off shoot on the dipstick with a threaded end on it. You could point the 'Y' so that it didn't interfere with normal dipstick operation. Torch a hole into the center of O2 bung plug, then TIG another fitting on to it. Have a hose shop build you a nice braided line to run from the 'Y' to your modified O2 bung plug. You could even install a catch can in the line with a drain valve on it so you wouldn't have any blue smoke.

The only problem with that I see is that the line would be pretty small. What ever ID the dipstick tube is, that would be all the flow you'd get. I haven't ever messed around with evac before though, so that might not be enough, I don't know.

On my car, there are no CAT's and I have exhaust dumps plumbed in line just before the mufflers. With the dumps open the car is basically open header so I would think the system would work well for me.

Thoughts?

Rusted40

ford air pump check valve and a piece of
pipe thread tubing cut at 45degrees
chrysler breathers that have a nipple and oil seperator

thats what moroso or mr.gasket sells you in kit form
a word of caution. clean the milkshake out of your line at least every oil change. I switched to the type that has a hose nipple on each end, with a piece of silicone hose at the header side. that made them last longer from less vibration. the guts are just reed valves like a two stroke uses, and they do break. just take the line off at the breather, and you can tell when its broke. any parts store sells the check valve as thats all you have to replace.

I switched to a pump but dont drive it everydayhttp://www.starvacuumpumps.com/viewP...=STR.03.01.000

C6dude

Heres what I designed for my electric crankcase evacuation system. For boosted Apps It is programable to come on from 1-30 psi of boost. It's going on my 402@15psi. It fits in the stock battery tray. My battery is going in the rear compatment like the Z06


ELECTRIC CRANKCASE EVACUATION SYSTEM
Apply a vacuum source to the crankcase. Rather than putting a breather on the valve cover to let crankcase pressure out, pull the air out with a pump to create a vacuum.
Benefits of Negative Crankcase Pressure using an Electric Pump:

1) Prevents oil leaks from seals and gaskets by eliminating crankcase pressure.
2) Reduces parasitic losses from pistons pumping against crankcase air.
3) Improves piston ring seal.
4) Increases HP and makes your engine last longer.
5) Eliminates your PCV system and the possibility of oil being sucked into your engine keeping your intake system and combustion chambers clean.
6) Eliminates the need for mechanical belt driven evacuation pump that robs some HP and needs rebuilding frequently.
7) Superior to valve cover breathers and exhaust path suction type pcv systems which contaminate your exhaust system and mufflers with oil.
8) Pump can be set up with the filtered crankcase exhaust routed to air filter housing instead of out to breather if desired for a closed loop system (emission friendly).
9) Fits in factory battery tray for easy access to engine. (Battery must be relocated to trunk or rear compartment).
10) Ideal for Turbo, Supercharged and high compression engines which create higher crankcase pressures at high RPM’s/Loads.
11) Creates 5 inches of vacuum in your crankcase with a very high CFM air flow when needed at high RPM’s, exhausting and filtering all blowby, while still maintaining its vacuum for ring seal.
12) The waste oil level is easily seen through sight hose and drained through a valve on the side of catch can. If any oil vapors pass the modified Catch can, they will be condensed and caught in the Air Dryer before reaching the pump to ensure long pump life.

AKS Racing

That is quite an interesting vacuum pump assembly. What was the pump from? Current draw? CFM rating at say 14.2VDC.
Thanks,
Aaron

C6dude

The Current draw is 7 amps. The Motor is a modified Bosch BMW M3 secondary air injection pump. I don't know the exact CFM rating,but it pulls a lot of air and hard. I have a 0-30 psi adjustable boost switch and a relay to activate it so it gets direct power from the battery.It's a lot more reliable than the GM air pumps some people are using and burn up with a couple drops of oil. It will definitely take care of any blowby and create about 5 inches vacuum in your crankcase.

It also acts as a breather when it's not running during idling or mild highway cruising with little or no boost.I think I will activate it at 3psi of boost to start and go from there The catchcan is shortened and modified inside to create 2 chambers.I took 2 months of testing to come up with this setup. I am going to put it on my car next week when the blower goes on my LS2 402@15psi. I will keep everyone updated with a new thread and post some dyno results .

Joe Lynch

I hope that system works out for you. I am contemplating a similar system for my turbo Cobra.

Where can you buy the BMW electric vacuum pump?

Thanks,
Joe