So I was thinking of 383 but the guys kind of turned me off of it because I wanted 500 HP (not RWHP) and many think it's too hard to acheive. So anyway, it appears to me that SC may be the way to go. I am considering Advanced Induction heads with it set-up for the SC and then the SC itself.
My question is, besides the heads (with new cam, pistons, etc) and the SC, what else would I need? IE: fuel delivery, torque converter, etc.
I'm trying to gauge the overall work and cost. Finally, what HP do you think good heads (like AI stage III) and the SC would yield? Thanks guys....
The head work is key to getting the max hp out of your head unit.
I made a solid 511 rwhp on a P1-SC, which seems to be considerably more than other people, with a stage 1 head job on the motor. If you want to get really wild, you could go with the off-road only AFR heads (I believe they are around 219 cfm?), long tubes, big tb, cog drive and an F-1 or 2 head unit and be putting some high 7 or low 8 hundred numbers down.
For what you are looking at. A P1 or d1 head unit with a solid head job and long tubes oughta to put you at around 500 rwhp or more. Things you will need for those kinda numbers:
Upgraded Fuel Pump
Larger injectors (Think 42# oughta do it)
Long Tubes
3200 stall (I think, I don't have an auto, 3800 might be better)
Tb air foil
It would be helpful for you in the long to do an ECU upgrade to control everything, though I've seen people make the stock computer work FAIRLY well.
I would think you could get 500chp out of a 383ci. I got 350rwhp(~435chp w/auto) out of my stroker with 9:1 compression and heads that flow about 250cfm.
If you got some AFR's 210 compitition porting that flowed around 290cfm and put the compression at 10:1 I think you'd have 500hp pretty easily.
And it would be much less of a tuning hassel than a supercharger.
I too believe that a 383 will do it but when you add up all the cost, I think it will be the same as supercharging anyway. With the supercharger, one should get that power at least.
true, but when you look at reliability then its not worth it. How many people here have gone 100,000 miles on a supercharged stock engine??
By going with a 383 you'll have alot more reliability. But there is a coolness factor with the supercharger, and it should be easier to launch with a smaller amount of low end torque. What ever you decide, Good luck
true, but when you look at reliability then its not worth it. How many people here have gone 100,000 miles on a supercharged stock engine??
By going with a 383 you'll have alot more reliability. But there is a coolness factor with the supercharger, and it should be easier to launch with a smaller amount of low end torque. What ever you decide, Good luck
What usually goes when the supercharger kills the engine? Is it the block itself? Thanks again.
the supercharger doesn't kill the engine.. the tune does or greed does. you either explain to yourself that you have a stock engine and that 6-8 pounds of intercooled (mechanical or gaseous) boost on 93 octane with a safe tune and healthy fuel system is enough or you take preventative measures and drop the compression ratio of the engine to work with higher boost levels and upgrade the fuel system.
but generally its the hypereutectic pistons that drop ring lands when detenation under boost occurs.. you hammer the hell out of the pistons, they rattle in the cylinders like candy in a piniata at a 6 year olds birthday party and pressure and frequency make the weekest portion of the piston fail resulting in blow by, failing compression, and ultimately engine failure if not shut down in time and repaired properly.
in either event.. if you go supercharged.. having an engine plan for later is a good idea.. for one to upgrade when you are ready for more power and boost.. this can be done by building the engine with dished pistons or by simply getting a head with larger chambers. the latter will add power due to much better flow capabilities of an aftermarket casting and allow for more airflow at lower boost. at a certain point you will require components stronger to handle the added power so a short term as well as long term plan is the best course of action so you do not spend money twice where spending once is smarter.
Hey thanks Chris. I value greatly the input. I am planning on doing the heads with pistons, etc set-up for supercharging. I have contacted Advanced Induction and asked them for a quote for heads ready for supercharging. It will be interesting what they come back with. Again, thanks.
In my opinion, I would prefer to go with a set of trickflow heads complete which will come with great springs setup for about any hydraulic roller cam, they have a 195cc intake port and 62cc combustion chambers which will help drop your static compression ratio, they have a thicker deck for more even clamping pressure and have more meat available for further porting. out of the box they flow in the mid 250's cfm which is plenty for a supercharged car trying to hit the 500chp mark and good for well beyond that number. They are machined for larger valves and have larger seats, and come ready to bolt on for ~$1395.00 or so. I think this is a far better value then a set of stock ported heads, and are less expensive for this particular application. it also give you ALOT of room to grow with the larger ports and additional meat available for porting removal for more power down the road or for larger cubes if you so desire. just my opinion. a nice gap between stockers and AFR's without the wait time or the incredibly over priced tag that AFR's often have on the Gen II LTx motors cylinder heads.
This also allows for a shallower dish in the piston and more meat to stay on the ring lands where it adds the most integrity to the piston design for forced induction applications.
and be advised that going with forged pistons, even the strongest and best in the world, they are still susceptible to failure from detonation.. they just in most instances will live for slight tuning mistakes which are caught immediately and corrected. other draw back to forged pistons is their inability to retain their shape from cold to hot, your machinist will need to pay careful attention to the piston to cylinder wall tolerances recommended by the piston manufacturer for proper honing finish. forged pistons have a tendency to slap around in the bore during engine warm up and should be driven easy until given a chance to reach proper operating temperature. forged pistons also scuff more so then cast or hypereutectic pistons due to their lower concentration of silicone content. basically you will need to pay more attention to your driving habits then with the stock configuration which was designed with performance in mind but also designed to live under the less then informed owner who starts the car and hauls ass out of his driveway.
cam selection is also another thing you should do alot of research on.. a supercharged car will like more exhaust duration then intake to help the smaller cube engine move air more like a big block. your lobe separation angle should be between 112-115 degrees, the closer to the larger spread will close overlap and reduce the chance of bleeding boost out the exhaust. duration depending on your range of operation should be carefully mapped out as larger duration will yield a broader rpm band.. this comes into play when calculating your blower max RPM operating range and pulley configuration, you want to avoid overspinning the blowers transmission beyond spec by revving the engine too high and at the same time maximize the blower operating range to match your engine RPM.
the springs supplied in the trickflows will be sufficient to combat the added intake pressures created by the blower pushing on the back face of the valves pretty far into about any goal you have stated and beyond. and upgrade to titanium retainers to reduce valvetrain mass would be my only recommendation and will add about 140-160 dollars. contact trickflow themselves for a part number and ask about a configuration that will utilize these pieces and where to purchase them from setup like this.
well that should give you direction on where to go and help save some time and money but you ultimately should read more on the topic to understand exactly what and why you will be selecting the parts you do to save yourself from making mistakes the first go around.
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