Hey gang. New to the forum.
Reading up on the dry ststem, easy intall, no problems with running too lean or too rich. I would appreciate any comments. It seems alot of people lean toward the wet or direct port, This would be my first major horsepower upgrade. I have a 1994 convertible LT-1 with a 58mm BBK throttle body and a K&N triple take air filters, just had the tranny done ( seems a ball blew through the valve body and lodged between discs) beefed up with a shift kit and higher stall converter. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanx, Dan
it's just safer if you get a plate. Vette engines can handle nitrous very well, but it wouldnt be a bad idea to upgrade the fuel system. And it's always a good idea to get a WOT switch and a fuel pressure switch. Just dont let your tires spin a whole lot with nitrous...
Get a Walboro fuel pump 20000169 throw it in the tank, about a 30 min job.
Get a Barry Grant LT1 nitrous works wet plate kit 100 to 175 hp,with purge and bottle heater.
I would get a programmer Hypertech or what ever.
1.Remove the factory rev limiter.
2.Get a set of MT Street or MT drag radials.
3.Lower the trans shift points by 3 MPH, all of them with the programmer.
4.Get an adjustable fuel regulator Aeromotive.
5.Lower the temp to 160 with the Programmer and install a 160 stat,drain the coolent before you install the thermastat.
6.Install a set of B8EFS NGK plugs.
7.Install a new or have good breaks on the car.
8.Put the car in drive to do burn out and leave it in drive ASR in the off possession,Stage streight and launch with a 100 shot of nitrous with bottle presure at 1025 psi after purge and the first run should be 11.71 at 122.36 mph.Drag radials around 22 to 20 lbs.
Don't launch with the nitrous on !!!turn it on after you are most of the way through first gear.
If you launch the car with the nitrous on you will be buying a drivers side motor mount and a drivers side shock.
If you want to know anything else just let me know!
You have a rag top so you will need a roll bar when you hit 13.49 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
You should already be their.
The roll bar is the part that sucks in a vert.
If you want pics let me know.
PS don't buy the ZEX spark plugs I just installed a set ,the car idles like crap and the B8EFS NGK will be back in the engine tommrow.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; 10-20-2005 at 01:31 AM.
I removed the knock module from the computer and installed the LT4 one only about $29.00.
Just remove the screws from the computer under the hood and flip it over,remove the tork screws and install the new one.
If you install roller rockers the car will not run if you don't replace it.
NO you don't need a program.
The computer in your car you can program yourself but not needed.
If you want to play with your computer and see what it is doing,just down load the Data Master or as it is called the tts system the first 10 runs are free but you will need a ADL'R cable.That is about $100.. bucks.
The Hypertech is all you need to program the computer.Easy as just pushing some buttons and following the information the computer asks for All the information you need is inside the lid of the center glove box and the drivers door edge.
Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; 10-20-2005 at 11:07 PM.
I run a "DRY" zex kit on my 91 vette! Easy set up, nitrous kits have come a long way. I also ran a "WET" Comp~U~Car kit on a 91 Z28, the car was running 12.70's @106 mph (was'nt a bad time in 1991) now 12 sec. + street cars are all over, including imports. Didnt make it to the track yet, the season is over here in Ohio! BRRRRRRRRR
Hey gang. New to the forum.
Reading up on the dry ststem, easy intall, no problems with running too lean or too rich. I would appreciate any comments. It seems alot of people lean toward the wet or direct port, This would be my first major horsepower upgrade. I have a 1994 convertible LT-1 with a 58mm BBK throttle body and a K&N triple take air filters, just had the tranny done ( seems a ball blew through the valve body and lodged between discs) beefed up with a shift kit and higher stall converter. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanx, Dan
Hey Dan, Good luck with your N20 system. I am buying one here myself soon. (trying too ) After all the research I've done, I would definately go with a wet kit for anything over 75HP. If for nothing else, piece of mind knowing that you're not solely relying on your injectors not to fail stick etc. ZEX seems to be a decent easy install kit and the barry grant also appears nicely done. One thing is for sure tho, I would definately lose the 58mm TB. That is doing NOTHING for you on a stock motor except possibly costing you HP. The 48mm should flow you just fine until you begin exceeding 400-425crank HP.
__________________
96 Black LT4
Cutom PCM programming, SM nodular Iron FW w/ CF DF clutch, Hurst STS,
1 3/4" shorties w/ straight flow pipes & a Borla SS exhaust, Custom CAI
w/ dual K&N filters, Cryo rotors w/Hawke HPS & Russel SS lines, lightly ported
intake with '777 gaskets, 52mm BBK, NGK Iridium 55s, Bilstein Z51
shocks/30mmF & 26mmR solid sway bars, Granatelli "RED" MAF, MSD Perf coil
and 8.5 wires, R&D Cross /Camber brace. 1" in drop, GS wheels
w/ 315s and flares. USMC Vet
Corvette Store
ZEX dry nitrous kit
) After all the research I've done, I would definately go with a wet kit for anything over 75HP. If for nothing else, piece of mind knowing that you're not solely relying on your injectors not to fail stick etc. ZEX seems to be a decent easy install kit and the barry grant also appears nicely done. One thing is for sure tho, I would definately lose the 58mm TB. That is doing NOTHING for you on a stock motor except possibly costing you HP. The 48mm should flow you just fine until you begin exceeding 400-425crank HP.
