"That car is nothing but problems." the girlfriend says
#1
"That car is nothing but problems." the girlfriend says
Im having lots of trouble with the brakes, when I first purchased the car i could drive about 10 miles before the brakes would eventually get tighter and tighter to a point where I could no longer move. I would crack the lines loose at the master cylender, fluid would squirt out and i could feel the car release and set into its parking gear. The master cylender is new as is the proportioning valve. I disconnected the vac line to the booster and drove it and the problem continued.I removed the master and adjusted the rod from the booster back(maybe it was pushing the piston too far forward) reconnected the vac line and I no longer have a problem withe brakes sticking. Now the pedal goes 3/4 down to the floor before the brakes start to stop and if i push really hard the rear brakes lock up the rear tires.but don't stick. I have a rough idol and when i disconnect the vac line to the booster and plug it the car idols nice, but when i hook it back up i have a rough idol again. When i drive the car i can hear the rear brakes klatter a bit and it goes away when i apply the brakes. Im sure it has a bit to do with the fact that i probably cooked them with them sticking. Help me out guys, I would like to keep the car and she says sel it.
#4
Safety Car
Sounds like you have multiple problems.
If your idle goes rough when you have the power booster connected, then you probably have a bad power booster. I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit from Checker Auto (Cardone mfgr) and it works great.
For the sticking brakes, my guess is you have collapsing rubber hoses going from your frame connected hard lines to your calipers. Replace these and this problem should go away. You can upgrade to braided stainless flex hoses too and you'll be able to get a more solid pedal feel than rubber hoses allow.
Its also a good time to look at using O-ring pistons in the bores (VBP conversion kit $130). This will save you grieve over the long haul with better reliability.
The brakes are not that difficult to overcome, you just need to pay attention to the details and youll have spot on reliability.
Brent...
If your idle goes rough when you have the power booster connected, then you probably have a bad power booster. I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit from Checker Auto (Cardone mfgr) and it works great.
For the sticking brakes, my guess is you have collapsing rubber hoses going from your frame connected hard lines to your calipers. Replace these and this problem should go away. You can upgrade to braided stainless flex hoses too and you'll be able to get a more solid pedal feel than rubber hoses allow.
Its also a good time to look at using O-ring pistons in the bores (VBP conversion kit $130). This will save you grieve over the long haul with better reliability.
The brakes are not that difficult to overcome, you just need to pay attention to the details and youll have spot on reliability.
Brent...
#5
Race Director
keep the car .....but the brakes are definitely not right...sounds like you have a couple of ailments going on.... sounds like the brake booster is not holding a vacuum.....and it sound like you are not getting brake fluid pressure to the front wheels....what kind of shape are those flexible hoses in and when did you bleed it last?
#6
Drifting
You have a bad seal inside the power break booster. As far as the sound from the rear, it almost sounds like half shaft U joints.
Does this car belong to your girlfriend? Does she have any money in it? If not then disregard her comments.
Good luck.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Does this car belong to your girlfriend? Does she have any money in it? If not then disregard her comments.
Good luck.
BigBlockk
Later.....
#7
Race Director
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Does this car belong to your girlfriend? Does she have any money in it? If not then disregard her comments.
..
..
spoken like a true car guy.....
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by MN-Brent
Sounds like you have multiple problems.
If your idle goes rough when you have the power booster connected, then you probably have a bad power booster. I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit from Checker Auto (Cardone mfgr) and it works great.
For the sticking brakes, my guess is you have collapsing rubber hoses going from your frame connected hard lines to your calipers. Replace these and this problem should go away. You can upgrade to braided stainless flex hoses too and you'll be able to get a more solid pedal feel than rubber hoses allow.
Its also a good time to look at using O-ring pistons in the bores (VBP conversion kit $130). This will save you grieve over the long haul with better reliability.
The brakes are not that difficult to overcome, you just need to pay attention to the details and youll have spot on reliability.
Brent...
If your idle goes rough when you have the power booster connected, then you probably have a bad power booster. I replaced mine with a rebuilt unit from Checker Auto (Cardone mfgr) and it works great.
For the sticking brakes, my guess is you have collapsing rubber hoses going from your frame connected hard lines to your calipers. Replace these and this problem should go away. You can upgrade to braided stainless flex hoses too and you'll be able to get a more solid pedal feel than rubber hoses allow.
Its also a good time to look at using O-ring pistons in the bores (VBP conversion kit $130). This will save you grieve over the long haul with better reliability.
The brakes are not that difficult to overcome, you just need to pay attention to the details and youll have spot on reliability.
Brent...
And, get a new girlfriend
#11
THANKS GUYS THE FUNNY THING IS SHE DRIVES A HONDA... I PURCHASED ANOTHER MASTER AND THE NEXT THING IS GOING TO BE THE BOSTER...THEN I GUESS WELL GO FROM THERE. WHY WOULD THE BRAKE LINES COLLAPSE? THERE IS ONLY PRESSURE TO EXPAND THEM...WHAT WOULD SUCK THEM CLOSED?
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Feb 2002
Location: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
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St. Jude Donor '05
"That car was nothing but problems." the EX-girlfriend says
#13
Race Director
Originally Posted by stephendrewelow
THANKS GUYS THE FUNNY THING IS SHE DRIVES A HONDA... I PURCHASED ANOTHER MASTER AND THE NEXT THING IS GOING TO BE THE BOSTER...THEN I GUESS WELL GO FROM THERE. WHY WOULD THE BRAKE LINES COLLAPSE? THERE IS ONLY PRESSURE TO EXPAND THEM...WHAT WOULD SUCK THEM CLOSED?
they get swollen and close up....no vacuum involved
#14
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Centerville La
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I had that problem with a 74 back in the 80's it turned out to be the proportioning valve had a small leak letting air in had us stumped for a while cause we concentrating on master cylinder
#15
Race Director
keep the car, fix the car, get rid of the girlfriend. initially the car will give you more trouble, but in the long run cheaper and far less grief than any girlfriend.
#17
Safety Car
You guys with the "keep the car get rid of the girlfriend" are all good comedians
Vettes are not for everyone and you have to make a commitment, probably both emotionally and financially to really get the rewards (huge rewards in my book). Getting mechanical with the car is also 50% of the experience.
In the end you have to do whats right for you and your wallet at the present time. If the car gets to be too much, then get rid of it. You can always come back later in life to the hobby.
If I was early 20s young and had the "right one" girlfriend, I dont think a car would come in between that. In my opinion, a good longtime girlfriend-wifey is harder to come by than any car.
Wait until money is not an issue, then have at it.
My .02
Brent...
Vettes are not for everyone and you have to make a commitment, probably both emotionally and financially to really get the rewards (huge rewards in my book). Getting mechanical with the car is also 50% of the experience.
In the end you have to do whats right for you and your wallet at the present time. If the car gets to be too much, then get rid of it. You can always come back later in life to the hobby.
If I was early 20s young and had the "right one" girlfriend, I dont think a car would come in between that. In my opinion, a good longtime girlfriend-wifey is harder to come by than any car.
Wait until money is not an issue, then have at it.
My .02
Brent...
#18
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2002
Location: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
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explain to your girlfriend that your car is a hobby. If we wanted to just merely get from point A to B, we'd buy a Japanese car or one with a warranty. Even newer performance cars have problems, usually because they are driven harder.
Your Vette will get to a point when most parts have been replaced. If you drive it regularly, those replaced parts will function like ones on a new car would, provided you don't have oil leaking on rubber and that sort of thing.
At some point you will be past the emergency repair stage and into the performance modding stage. That's when it gets fun. Unless you have a ton of money to throw at the car and just start replacing stuff that isn't broken right now, but might fail in the future, these current crisis are just part of the hobby.
Your Vette will get to a point when most parts have been replaced. If you drive it regularly, those replaced parts will function like ones on a new car would, provided you don't have oil leaking on rubber and that sort of thing.
At some point you will be past the emergency repair stage and into the performance modding stage. That's when it gets fun. Unless you have a ton of money to throw at the car and just start replacing stuff that isn't broken right now, but might fail in the future, these current crisis are just part of the hobby.
#20
Race Director
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Does this car belong to your girlfriend? Does she have any money in it? If not then disregard her comments.
If she doesnt share your passion about it, you could simply tell her" I dont complain about your hobbies or interests...."