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"That car is nothing but problems." the girlfriend says

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Old 12-31-2004, 12:51 PM
  #21  
websparks
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Originally Posted by isosceles
explain to your girlfriend that your car is a hobby. If we wanted to just merely get from point A to B, we'd buy a Japanese car or one with a warranty. Even newer performance cars have problems, usually because they are driven harder.

Your Vette will get to a point when most parts have been replaced. If you drive it regularly, those replaced parts will function like ones on a new car would, provided you don't have oil leaking on rubber and that sort of thing.

At some point you will be past the emergency repair stage and into the performance modding stage. That's when it gets fun. Unless you have a ton of money to throw at the car and just start replacing stuff that isn't broken right now, but might fail in the future, these current crisis are just part of the hobby.


Absolutely ... I've had my 76 for about six months and as frustrating as it sometime gets, it's been worth it. The wife giggles, clucks, or rolls her eyes now and then, but she's figures she's too smart to try to dispossess me of lunacy.

Hang in there, man, it's all uphill from here!

Old 12-31-2004, 12:56 PM
  #22  
81' Corvette Guy
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Stick a fork in her and call her done..sounds like it is time for a new gf..plenty O' fish in da sea!!
Old 12-31-2004, 01:02 PM
  #23  
75rag4sp
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I had the same problem with pressure building up and eventually locking up the brakes. Raplace the rubber hoses with the Stainless ones from VBP. But you will need extra copper washers. Relplace your booster, replace the Hoses...check for leaky calipers. We will all be waiting for your "How the hell do you beleeed these brakes post" That should be coming in about a week or so.

Don't worry about the girlfriend. Ask her how she would feel it you dumped her every time she needed new shoes. Do the math and the Vette is cheaper than the girl every time.
Old 12-31-2004, 01:17 PM
  #24  
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Since you crack the line at the master cylinder and the pressure
bleeds off, it sounds like a clogged passageway in the MC itself,
not hose problems. However, check your hoses - they may be in need
of replacing anyway. If you do need to replace them,
be careful not to mess up the lines/nuts that connect to them
or you will be replacing all the steel lines, too.

What you hear in the rear end may be the Ebrake shoes rattling,
and it could be Ujoints, shocks, or strut rod bushing noises.

And just keep remembering:
This is not a car ... it is a Corvette. It takes some extra care sometimes.
Your GF is just jealous of the attention you give her (her being the 'vette).

Old 12-31-2004, 01:54 PM
  #25  
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Sounds to me like some serious air in the lines. Had that happen to me several years ago. Actually locked up the rear brakes to the point of literally seizing. Lost a rotor, pads and caliper. Haven't replaced the hoses.
Old 12-31-2004, 01:55 PM
  #26  
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Posted the above and realized I forgot the important part. What was going on is that the air in the lines actually was expanding as it heated up. It was a hot day and I was driving rapidly.
Old 12-31-2004, 02:09 PM
  #27  
mandm1200
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I wonder what the car would say if it could talk? Perhaps something like 'She too much of a problem, you should sell her'.
Now you reply back that you have both good times and bad times with her and feel that almost all things can be repaired and you'll hang on to her for a while.
Old 12-31-2004, 02:27 PM
  #28  
stephendrewelow
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ITS AN INTERESTING STORY THIS GIRLFRIEND AND THIS CAR, I HAD A RUSTY JEEP CJ7 AND I SOLD IT FOR TWICE WHAT I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO GET OUT OF IT TO SOME GUY WHO HAD THE CASH AND NEEDED A JEEP THAT DAY. THE JEEP HAD ALOT OF SENTIMENTAL (SP?) VALUE AND SHE WAS SO UPSET WITH ME ABOUT IT...SHELL GET OVER IT...MY OLD ROOMMATE'S DAD HAS A 76 VETTE AND SHE JUST LOVES THE CAR, SO WHEN I SET OUT TO MEET A GUY IN COMPTON CALIFORNIA TO LOOK AT AN OLD CHEVELLE THE CAR AND THE GUY WERE NO WHERE TO BE FOUND. dRIVING AROUND IN A FOUR BLOCK RADIUS I SPOTTED THIS 76 VETTE SITTING IN A DRIVEWAY WITH A FOR SALE SIGN IN IT FOR $5500, MY PLANS WERE TO SPEND ONLY 3K ON A CAR AND PUT THE REST BACK, I HAD $3,500 CASH ON ME, KNOWING THE CAR WAS OUT OF MY PRICE RANGE, I DECIDED TO ENTERTAIN MYSELF WITH IT. NO FRONT OR REAR BUMPER COVERS ROUGHT IDOL THE PAINT IS ALMOST PERFECT T-TOPS NEW GOOD YEAR TIRES GREAT INTERIOR TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE AND THE BRAKES ENDED UP STICKING AND I HAD TO WALK BACK 5 BLOCKS, AFTER GETTING THE CAR BACK TO THE OWNERS HOUSE I PULLED OUT $3500 CASH AND SAID ILL PAY THIS NOW, THE LADY SAID NO SOMEONE WAS THERE JUST AN HOUR BEFORE ME AND OFFERED HER 4500 FOR IT, I SAID BUT HE'S GONE AND IM HERE WITH CASH, THE GUY WAS SUPPOSED TO BE BACK IN A HALF HOUR BUT I PUSHED AND PUSHED AND SHE TOOK A BITE. i THINK THE GUY BEFORE ME DROVE THE CAR AND THOUGHT IT HAD NO POWER BUT DIDN'T KNOW THE BRAKES WERE STICKING.
SO I SURPRISED HER WITH THE CAR, SHE DIDN'T JUMP UP AND DOWN BUT UNDER HER "IM STILL PISSED" LOOK I SAW A LITTLE SMILE.SHE'S NOT USED TO SITTING SO LOW AND NOT BEING ABLE TO SEE AND THE "VINYL" SEATS AREN'T COMPORTABLE. I JUST WANT TO GET THIS CAR IN GOOD SHAPE AND LET HER DRIVE IT A BIT...I BET SHE WILL WARM UP TO IT.
SO HELP WITH THE PROBLEMS AND ILL GET SOME PICS OF THE HOTTIE GIRLFRIEND AND THE CAR ON HERE.
i HAVE WATER ON THE FLOORS AND I THINK ITS COMING FROM THE COWL WHATS GOING ON THERE.
YOU GUYS ARE GREAT

Last edited by stephendrewelow; 12-31-2004 at 02:31 PM.
Old 12-31-2004, 02:34 PM
  #29  
Greg G
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Default Brakes sticking

It sounds like you have the brake rod adjusted wrong. There should be about 1/8" play before the MC is engaged. If the rod is too long then the fluid will not release when you take your foot off. If too short the pedal is too low. And yes it is a pain to get up under the dash to adjust.
As for the rough idle, it is a vacum leake in the booster.
Old 01-02-2005, 01:26 PM
  #30  
Tominator
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Sell some of her shoes to buy repair parts for the brakes
Old 01-02-2005, 10:37 PM
  #31  
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Still waiting for pics of the hottie!
Old 01-03-2005, 02:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by stephendrewelow
Im having lots of trouble with the brakes, when I first purchased the car i could drive about 10 miles before the brakes would eventually get tighter and tighter to a point where I could no longer move. I would crack the lines loose at the master cylender, fluid would squirt out and i could feel the car release and set into its parking gear. The master cylender is new as is the proportioning valve. I disconnected the vac line to the booster and drove it and the problem continued.I removed the master and adjusted the rod from the booster back(maybe it was pushing the piston too far forward) reconnected the vac line and I no longer have a problem withe brakes sticking. Now the pedal goes 3/4 down to the floor before the brakes start to stop and if i push really hard the rear brakes lock up the rear tires.but don't stick. I have a rough idol and when i disconnect the vac line to the booster and plug it the car idols nice, but when i hook it back up i have a rough idol again. When i drive the car i can hear the rear brakes klatter a bit and it goes away when i apply the brakes. Im sure it has a bit to do with the fact that i probably cooked them with them sticking. Help me out guys, I would like to keep the car and she says sel it.
Sell the girlfriend, you can always get another. You sell the car and you'll never find another like it. Is it me, or are my priorities as straight as a bent stick.
Old 01-03-2005, 01:27 PM
  #33  
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keep the car - get a new girlfriend! That is what I did. Now I hear "I can't wait for you to finish it so we can cruise this spring" instead of "All you do is work and spend $ on that POS car." Hit the road baby!!
Old 01-03-2005, 01:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
they get swollen and close up....no vacuum involved
The brake lines or the girlfriend?
Old 01-03-2005, 01:43 PM
  #35  
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Since your girlfriend says sell the vette go out and buy a second vette.
Old 01-03-2005, 02:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Greg G
It sounds like you have the brake rod adjusted wrong. There should be about 1/8" play before the MC is engaged. If the rod is too long then the fluid will not release when you take your foot off.


Yeah, if the piston isn't relaxed completely then the ports back into the reservoir won't open up. The result is exactly as he described. But it sounds like he already fixed this by shortening the rod?



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