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Old 12-10-2004, 10:58 AM   #1
mvftw
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Default Valve Seals?

What are the best valve seals for a stock '78 L82? This will be a springtime project...
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:27 PM   #2
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I decided these valve seals were the best swap I could do on my L82

Click the image to open in full size.

"Summit"-brand Dart Iron Eagle S/S heads. Big valves, 67cc vortec-style chambers. And relatively inexpensive
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by page62
I decided these valve seals were the best swap I could do on my L82

Click the image to open in full size.

"Summit"-brand Dart Iron Eagle S/S heads. Big valves, 67cc vortec-style chambers. And relatively inexpensive
WIAI disease!!!!!
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:36 PM   #4
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For stock I would go to NAPA and get some stock umbrella seals.

I ended up replacing the Crane teflons seals that my shop put on with the Edelbrock viton ones and stopped my oil burning problem. This was on my RPM heads with Crane dual valve springs.
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:36 PM   #5
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I used Felpro "Umbrella" seals. Got em from Autozone. Don't remember the part number.
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:53 PM   #6
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WIAI disease!!!!!
It takes one to know one!!!
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Old 12-10-2004, 02:58 PM   #7
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I did this a while back with the NAPA positive stop seals. They are sort of white in color and have little springs on them. These cured all of my smoky start ups. Any positive stop seal should work for you.
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Old 12-10-2004, 06:56 PM   #8
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Question - to replace these seals do the heads have to come off the block?
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Old 12-10-2004, 07:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diablo kid
Question - to replace these seals do the heads have to come off the block?
Nope. Some people use compressed air or rope to keep the valves up. I just rotated each cylinder to TDC in turn (firing order) and then did the seal swap.

With the piston at TDC, there is no way that the valve could drop far enough to fall into the cylinder.
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Nope. Some people use compressed air or rope to keep the valves up. I just rotated each cylinder to TDC in turn (firing order) and then did the seal swap.

With the piston at TDC, there is no way that the valve could drop far enough to fall into the cylinder.

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Old 12-10-2004, 09:30 PM   #11
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If you have it done, it will run you about $400.00 or so. At least it did for me down here in TX. I don't have a compressor to do the air trick, so I had it done. I have not had a plug foul since I had the seals replaced, which was a good 8-10 months ago and my Vette is my daily driver for the most part. I took the seals to the guy that did my car and told him that I wanted to use them instead of the usual GM 'O' rings. The positive stop seals are light years better.
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Old 12-10-2004, 11:38 PM   #12
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Can somebody post a picture of these positive stop seals?
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:11 AM   #13
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Here ya go, I posted a picture here www.angelfire.com/al/swhite7/temp.html


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Old 12-11-2004, 09:34 AM   #14
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Will the positive stop seals fit on the guides without any modification/machining?
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:48 AM   #15
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Ok, based on the picture posted, can somebody explain how they work? I pulled a chewed up set of these out of my heads and replaced them with the Felpro umbrella style. The engine has not been started yet as I've got one of those big body off restos going on.
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:56 AM   #16
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Here's a pic. They snap on the guide and don't move. With these, no machining was required. We put them on the 1979 L-82 last September using a compressor. Oil consumption problem solved.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:58 AM   #17
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So how do they snap onto the valve guide? Have to have a sepcial guide machined with a groove or something?
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Old 12-11-2004, 10:21 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobsed
So how do they snap onto the valve guide? Have to have a sepcial guide machined with a groove or something?
The valve guides should be machined and the seals just push down over them and are held in place by the spring wires. After I slid mine down the valves, I put a 1/2" deep socket over it, couple of taps with a hammer to seat it and good to go.

I originally had the Crane white teflons seals and was burning oil. My new viton seals from Edelbrock look exactly like the ones that Paul67 posted above.
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Old 12-11-2004, 10:24 AM   #19
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So all valve guides have the feature needed for them to snap on already?
I don't think mine do.
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Old 12-11-2004, 10:31 AM   #20
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Interesting that Paul used the Crane seals and didn't need to machine the guide? I thought the opposite,that positive seals required the guide to be machined?
The WP heads have came with the umbrella type of seal. I do have an oil usage problem that i haven't been able to track. Plugs are not fouled,some are running lean(white), no major oil leaks, but the engine uses 1 qt/600 miles. No heavy smoke unless shifting at 5500 RPM. I didn't to do a leak down or compression test yet.
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Old 12-11-2004, 10:31 AM
 
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78, 9981916, crane, dart, eagle, fit, heads, iron, l48, l82, seal, seals, size, ss, valve


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