Teflon or Anti-seize?
10-22-2004, 09:46 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2004
Location: Vernon British Columbia
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St. Jude Donor '05
First C3 General Poster!
Telfon tape will let you get the damn things out a hella lot easier come time and youre not sacrificing any leak protection either. Just be liberal with it, its cheap.
10-23-2004, 10:54 AM
#5
Race Director
I use tape on fittings and paste on bolts going into the aluminum.
10-23-2004, 02:44 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by 1970-Bronze
Ok, which to use when installing fittings in the aluminum Intake and aluminum water pump?
10-23-2004, 07:55 PM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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I like teflon tape for sealing, Anti seize has nothing to do with sealing and I use in on all bolts that don't require sealing.
I do NOT like the teflon paste, the white stuff. It locks the part in permanently. I have never has a problem with teflon tape, I even used it on my sending units without a problem but I can see how it could cause problems. I have just been lucky.
I do NOT like the teflon paste, the white stuff. It locks the part in permanently. I have never has a problem with teflon tape, I even used it on my sending units without a problem but I can see how it could cause problems. I have just been lucky.
10-24-2004, 07:58 AM
#11
Safety Car
I would be very carefull using teflon tape when dealing with aluminum threads. When you wrap the bolt it gets slightly larger. This would make the clearence between the treads of bolt and the threads of other tighter. If the bolt is screwing into aluminum which is softer metal, a tighter fit could cause problems. I think the paste would move more freely away from the tight spots and fill voids in others with less chance of causing problems. Regardless of which you use, do it sparingly. Just use a small amount.
10-24-2004, 08:11 AM
#12
Team Owner
I use non-hardening, teflon-based pipe thread compound with no problems. As noted, don't go to excess. Just coat the thread grooves.
If you look very carefully you can see that NPT (national pipe thread) fittings are tapered and are somewhat forced into the intake. So just snug them up. If you over-tighten you risk cracking the aluminum. If you are over-cautious the compound will take up the slack and prevent leaks. Generally you can "feel" when the unit starts to bite snugly.
If you look very carefully you can see that NPT (national pipe thread) fittings are tapered and are somewhat forced into the intake. So just snug them up. If you over-tighten you risk cracking the aluminum. If you are over-cautious the compound will take up the slack and prevent leaks. Generally you can "feel" when the unit starts to bite snugly.
Last edited by Paul L; 10-24-2004 at 08:20 AM.
10-24-2004, 02:13 PM
#15
Race Director
Originally Posted by paul67
cool looking manifold, please tell me about the top of the manifold where it bolts to the carb its an interesting looking arrangement and it must be designed like that for a specific reason...thks
10-24-2004, 02:42 PM
#16
Team Owner
Bob,
That is a GM #3890490 aluminum intake used on 1966-67 Corvettes and Novas with the L-79 (327/350) engine option. I have one on my car and that one resides in basement inventory. They tend to be expensive and good ones are hard to find owing to acidic coolant corrosion and cracking from improper torqueing. I picked up both on EBay about a year ago for $175-200 each. At the moment they tend to fetch over $400.00!
As to the assymetrical plane design I really do not know the answer. Here's the 327/300 and 327/350 intakes side-by-side. One is four-hole and the other is basically three. But both work fine on my engine. It's a bit of a treat trying to explain that configuration to a parts counter person when you're looking for a gasket!
That is a GM #3890490 aluminum intake used on 1966-67 Corvettes and Novas with the L-79 (327/350) engine option. I have one on my car and that one resides in basement inventory. They tend to be expensive and good ones are hard to find owing to acidic coolant corrosion and cracking from improper torqueing. I picked up both on EBay about a year ago for $175-200 each. At the moment they tend to fetch over $400.00!
As to the assymetrical plane design I really do not know the answer. Here's the 327/300 and 327/350 intakes side-by-side. One is four-hole and the other is basically three. But both work fine on my engine. It's a bit of a treat trying to explain that configuration to a parts counter person when you're looking for a gasket!
Last edited by Paul L; 10-24-2004 at 02:49 PM.
