Vacuum Timing
#1
Racer
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Vacuum Timing
I was reading some material I found a couple years back from another forum. They were discussing vacuum timing.
Spark timing does nothing to address the issue of ‘motor condition’, only when the spark occurs in relation to crank position. Vacuum timing a motor sets the spark according to the condition of the motor, as compression, mileage, cam, etc., all become a factor.
I’ve been playing around with timing and keep getting frustrated and setting it back to where I thought it should.
ZZ502/502
8 degrees BTDC @ 800rpm, 36 degrees Total @ 5000rpm,
8 degrees initial
6 degrees vacuum
21/22 degrees mechanical
36 total
With my vacuum gauge, I was trying to adjust my idle mixture screws I was always getting a ~2” flutter around 12”.
OK, It’s only an engine what do I have to loose? I hooked up my vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and went for it.
It feels like I gained 50 rear wheel! Runs much better, smooth hard pull, not as loud at idle! Basically it does not sound like a NASCAR anymore.
I checked the timing mark and 30 initial! I did not hear any detonation so I took it for a long spin. Probably its best outing. I did notice a slight miss when she was wining up(58 degrees?). I pulled the plugs and they looked great. I gained 5”(then backed off 1” as suggested) of vacuum and lost the flutter.
I checked that the balancer lined up with TDC.
Anyone ever run into this?
Thanks,
Dan
Spark timing does nothing to address the issue of ‘motor condition’, only when the spark occurs in relation to crank position. Vacuum timing a motor sets the spark according to the condition of the motor, as compression, mileage, cam, etc., all become a factor.
I’ve been playing around with timing and keep getting frustrated and setting it back to where I thought it should.
ZZ502/502
8 degrees BTDC @ 800rpm, 36 degrees Total @ 5000rpm,
8 degrees initial
6 degrees vacuum
21/22 degrees mechanical
36 total
With my vacuum gauge, I was trying to adjust my idle mixture screws I was always getting a ~2” flutter around 12”.
OK, It’s only an engine what do I have to loose? I hooked up my vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and went for it.
It feels like I gained 50 rear wheel! Runs much better, smooth hard pull, not as loud at idle! Basically it does not sound like a NASCAR anymore.
I checked the timing mark and 30 initial! I did not hear any detonation so I took it for a long spin. Probably its best outing. I did notice a slight miss when she was wining up(58 degrees?). I pulled the plugs and they looked great. I gained 5”(then backed off 1” as suggested) of vacuum and lost the flutter.
I checked that the balancer lined up with TDC.
Anyone ever run into this?
Thanks,
Dan
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Originally Posted by 70_Shark
8 degrees BTDC @ 800rpm, 36 degrees Total @ 5000rpm,
8 degrees initial
6 degrees vacuum
21/22 degrees mechanical
36 total
8 degrees initial
6 degrees vacuum
21/22 degrees mechanical
36 total
#4
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '05
First C3 General Poster!
I wanna keep this thread going hahaha, how exactly does one go about changing vaccum like that anyhow?
#6
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Originally Posted by Vetterodder
"Total" advance is initial plus mechanical. In your example, you have 30º total. 30º at idle with vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum is not excessive. That's about how factory hipo engines were set up before smog regs created ported vacuum advance. I'm surprised that you vacuum advance is adding only 6º. Typically, it's 16º or more. If I'm understanding you correctly, you are runniing 24º initial + 6º vacuum advance to get that 30º at idle? How does that add up to 58º with 21/22 mechanical?
#7
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81 Vette,
Basically, as your car is in driving condition(all vac hoses, air filter, etc.) with vacuum gauge installed, advance to peak manifold vacuum, note timing, then retard 2-3" of vacuum. Go and have fun.
I started with vacuum advance pugged, just reading off the manifold to get initial.
I will repeat tonight to see if I can fine tune it better.
-Dan
Basically, as your car is in driving condition(all vac hoses, air filter, etc.) with vacuum gauge installed, advance to peak manifold vacuum, note timing, then retard 2-3" of vacuum. Go and have fun.
I started with vacuum advance pugged, just reading off the manifold to get initial.
I will repeat tonight to see if I can fine tune it better.
-Dan
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Originally Posted by 70_Shark
I checked that the balancer lined up with TDC.
#10
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Originally Posted by Fevre
What do you mean by this? Did you check your #1 piston tdc and the balancer registered tdc? Balancer may have slipped giving you a false reading when you time it.
I'm thinking that maybe my springs are too light and I'm getting mech. advance right away.
-Dan
Last edited by 70_Shark; 10-06-2004 at 01:22 PM.
#11
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For what its worth I have always fine tuned my cars (last 20 yrs) with the vacuum gauge, especially the carburetor settings. I have never had a bad experience where the vacuum gauge misled me.
#12
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
For what its worth I have always fine tuned my cars (last 20 yrs) with the vacuum gauge, especially the carburetor settings. I have never had a bad experience where the vacuum gauge misled me.
#13
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I tried that this afternoon with my car and it was interesting. I have the timing set at 16 initial with 20 mech advance in the dist (no vac advance on the dist im using). I hooked up a vac gauge to manifold at idle and have 9". Advanced timing until 13" which was max I read on gauge then backed off 2" until 11" vac was read on gauge (the articles I read said to back off 1" but that seemed too close for me!). Sounded ok when I revved so checked timing now and have 22 degrees. The total timing is 22 + 20 = 42 degrees. I thought I read that 36 degrees total was what a small block should run so backed the timing back down to 16 initial although it sounded good at 22. Now I'm wondering if my stock balancer has slipped?! I'll be checking that tomorrow. Maybe I'll run the timing back up a bit tomorrow and see how it performs, although a bit paranoid about breaking parts!
#14
Race Director
I wonder what if everything wasn't indexed correctly when the engine was built? how many degrees could that account for??
let me think about this for a while.... but until then if it is running better and smoother what are you afraid of breaking? For giggles and grins you should do a MPG check prev setting vs. new setting
let me think about this for a while.... but until then if it is running better and smoother what are you afraid of breaking? For giggles and grins you should do a MPG check prev setting vs. new setting
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Originally Posted by exdrag77
I tried that this afternoon with my car and it was interesting. I have the timing set at 16 initial with 20 mech advance in the dist (no vac advance on the dist im using). I hooked up a vac gauge to manifold at idle and have 9". Advanced timing until 13" which was max I read on gauge then backed off 2" until 11" vac was read on gauge (the articles I read said to back off 1" but that seemed too close for me!). Sounded ok when I revved so checked timing now and have 22 degrees. The total timing is 22 + 20 = 42 degrees. I thought I read that 36 degrees total was what a small block should run so backed the timing back down to 16 initial although it sounded good at 22. Now I'm wondering if my stock balancer has slipped?! I'll be checking that tomorrow. Maybe I'll run the timing back up a bit tomorrow and see how it performs, although a bit paranoid about breaking parts!
#17
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I do take into account advance that the distributor adds. I'm ordering a spring kit on a hunch. I already use vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum. I'm finding the vacuum gauge a useful tool.
Exdrag77, I'm working on the same problem. I'll figure it out.
Exdrag77, I'm working on the same problem. I'll figure it out.
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Originally Posted by 70_Shark
I do take into account advance that the distributor adds. I'm ordering a spring kit on a hunch. I already use vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum. I'm finding the vacuum gauge a useful tool.
Exdrag77, I'm working on the same problem. I'll figure it out.
Exdrag77, I'm working on the same problem. I'll figure it out.
#19
Burning Brakes
Initial plus mechanical plus vacuum equals total advance.
You want about 36 degrees total initial and mechanical advance in at around 2,500 - 2,800 rpm. This measurement is taken with the vacuum advance disconnected. This is controlled with the initial advance setting, 8 degrees BTDC in my car, plus adjusting the advance characteristics of the distributor. I have the MSD Pro-Billet. Following their instructions, I added the limiting spacer that gave me an additional 28 degrees of advance and used the spring set that allowed this to occur just under 3000 rpm.
Started the car and hooked up the timing light and the setting was dead on.
Hook up the vacuum advance and at a rpm level above the point where your total mechanical advance kicks in and under no load, you should get a total advance of 52 degrees. Mine came in exactly at that number with the vacuum canister on the distributor. Some of the vendors sell adjustable vacuum cans.
Here are links to Lars' 2 papers. http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.ro...istributor.pdf
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.robert/howto.pdf
You want about 36 degrees total initial and mechanical advance in at around 2,500 - 2,800 rpm. This measurement is taken with the vacuum advance disconnected. This is controlled with the initial advance setting, 8 degrees BTDC in my car, plus adjusting the advance characteristics of the distributor. I have the MSD Pro-Billet. Following their instructions, I added the limiting spacer that gave me an additional 28 degrees of advance and used the spring set that allowed this to occur just under 3000 rpm.
Started the car and hooked up the timing light and the setting was dead on.
Hook up the vacuum advance and at a rpm level above the point where your total mechanical advance kicks in and under no load, you should get a total advance of 52 degrees. Mine came in exactly at that number with the vacuum canister on the distributor. Some of the vendors sell adjustable vacuum cans.
Here are links to Lars' 2 papers. http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.ro...istributor.pdf
http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.robert/howto.pdf