F'N shifter won't come outa reverse!
#1
Senior Member since 1492
Thread Starter
F'N shifter won't come outa reverse!
:
I bet I had that linkage apart a dozen times today trying to figure this out. 1-4 works great and with the new Comp+ the shifts are short & solid. That is until I try to backup. Then it locks into reverse and I can't get it out. If I yank on the shifter down and towards second gear it'll pop out reluctantly.
Is my reverse rod too long maybe? Too short?
There doesn't seem to be any interference between the other rods, and once I get the shifter out of reverse(very hard to do) 1-4 work great until I put it into reverse again.
Any help is appreciated.
I bet I had that linkage apart a dozen times today trying to figure this out. 1-4 works great and with the new Comp+ the shifts are short & solid. That is until I try to backup. Then it locks into reverse and I can't get it out. If I yank on the shifter down and towards second gear it'll pop out reluctantly.
Is my reverse rod too long maybe? Too short?
There doesn't seem to be any interference between the other rods, and once I get the shifter out of reverse(very hard to do) 1-4 work great until I put it into reverse again.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
Tech Contributor
Check the rod for binding on the 1-2 rod? Will it engage/disengage with the rod off using a wrench? Just asking tobe sure it's not in the tranny.
I bought a new Comp+ last year and it was total junk. I sent it back 3 times and even to the Hurst repair facility in NV. After a month getting no where, I ended up fixing it myself. Works good now.
The quality of the new product doesn't compare to the original companys. Too bad,maybe they never heard fo ISO?
Gary
I bought a new Comp+ last year and it was total junk. I sent it back 3 times and even to the Hurst repair facility in NV. After a month getting no where, I ended up fixing it myself. Works good now.
The quality of the new product doesn't compare to the original companys. Too bad,maybe they never heard fo ISO?
Gary
#3
Not long after I put in my Comp+, I started getting binding between the linkage and the crossmember...the rubber transmission mount had gotten soggy and settled, eliminating the normal clearance. I just shimmed it back up where it belonged, and no more problems. You should be able to see any binding (outside the transmission case, anyway) if you jack up and look while someone is shifting.
Otherwise, I suspect your linkage still isn't adjusted quite right, I've been there and done that too! When you set your rod length with the nuts on the back of the linkage rods, did you have all the shift gates locked in neutral with the 1/4" spacer, and the reverse lever on the transmission in the forward position? I'd try once more. It doesn't take much to cause gears to stick/lock.
Last of all, I recall that this is a fresh rebuilt M-22 transmission...do you know for certain that everything is together O.K. inside (i.e., has it ever been street proven to work properly before your install?)? I'd hate to think it was anything that drastic, but if it's never been driven, you never know.
Let us know what the problem turns out to be!
-Roy
Otherwise, I suspect your linkage still isn't adjusted quite right, I've been there and done that too! When you set your rod length with the nuts on the back of the linkage rods, did you have all the shift gates locked in neutral with the 1/4" spacer, and the reverse lever on the transmission in the forward position? I'd try once more. It doesn't take much to cause gears to stick/lock.
Last of all, I recall that this is a fresh rebuilt M-22 transmission...do you know for certain that everything is together O.K. inside (i.e., has it ever been street proven to work properly before your install?)? I'd hate to think it was anything that drastic, but if it's never been driven, you never know.
Let us know what the problem turns out to be!
-Roy
#5
Senior Member since 1492
Thread Starter
Neutral turns out to be with the top of the reverse lever pointing backward towar the driver and the bottom pointing to the front. I know this for a fact because it was stuck in reverse when I tried to install the driveshaft last week. The yoke would not spin reely (neutral) unless the reverse lever pointed to the back.
I remember forum member Bob helping me with my M-20 a few years ago. He said the top of the reverse lever should point back???
Yes, I did the neutral alignment a dozen times too.
I remember forum member Bob helping me with my M-20 a few years ago. He said the top of the reverse lever should point back???
Yes, I did the neutral alignment a dozen times too.
#7
Senior Member since 1492
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by CGGorman
Stupid question, but can the levers be removed and reoriented?
The 1-2 and 3-4 levers can be reversed depending on clearance with the the other. One is off-set a tad and the other not. The rods too must be situated in such a way as to avoid interference with the other rods. That's what's puzzling me. The reverse rod is out of the way and doesn't appear to be hitting or hanging up on anything.
It's a very difficult one man job.
#8
Tech Contributor
Does this help?
This is the 25 year old Hurst Comp+ on the M-20 I rebuilt out of my 69.It has worked great since the day I bought it.
Gary
This is the 25 year old Hurst Comp+ on the M-20 I rebuilt out of my 69.It has worked great since the day I bought it.
Gary
#9
Senior Member since 1492
Thread Starter
Great Gary, but I think that's exactly how I have my rods setup.
The position of the reverse lever is what I was trying to describe. The tranny pictured should be in neutral.
Could you take a picture of the reverse rod where it joins the shifter? I'd like to see how far up the rod the connector is screwed. Approximately how many threads are exposed.
You know what's really funny? This shifter worked just fine when I had it fitted to the tranny when the engine/tranny weren't in the car yet.
The position of the reverse lever is what I was trying to describe. The tranny pictured should be in neutral.
Could you take a picture of the reverse rod where it joins the shifter? I'd like to see how far up the rod the connector is screwed. Approximately how many threads are exposed.
You know what's really funny? This shifter worked just fine when I had it fitted to the tranny when the engine/tranny weren't in the car yet.
Last edited by Jughead; 10-04-2004 at 05:47 PM.
#10
Tech Contributor
I can take more pictures but I won't be in the shop for a couple of days. There are 2 different rods for reverse I believe,1- Muncies 1- BW ST-10's They come in the same kit.
Zwede- you are correct about ISO!
Gary
Zwede- you are correct about ISO!
Gary
#11
Race Director
I had a similar problem recently could not figure it out had to pull the tranny, mine would not go into reverse, turns out I had the lever on the bottom of the reverse gear and it shoule have been connected on the top ( or vise-versa can't remember now )
It was a Super T 10 though
It was a Super T 10 though
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2001
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Originally Posted by gtr1999
Sounds like the linkage or the shifter is binding. Try disconnecting the reverse bracket from the transmission & shifting in & out of reverse to eliminate the shifter. You'll need someone in the car to shift with the linkage assembled to see if its binding.
You do have the reverse lockout cable & reverse switch disconnected - yes? If not disconnect them first to eliminate any problems in those areas.
Jim
#13
Pro
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I, too, have the Comp + shifter on my M-20. I couldn't get the alignment pin in the shifter once it was in the car. The only way I was able to adjust it was to have the wife work the shfter and lay underneath and watch/adjust.
#14
Tech Contributor
Here you go, I made a special trip just for you!
#15
Melting Slicks
Len,
I had the same problem recently with my stock shifter. The linkage on the 1-2 rod was about 1/8" off. Once I found its happy place, she comes out of reverse. Tweak the 1-2 rod length by this amount and see what happens.
I had the same problem recently with my stock shifter. The linkage on the 1-2 rod was about 1/8" off. Once I found its happy place, she comes out of reverse. Tweak the 1-2 rod length by this amount and see what happens.
#16
Senior Member since 1492
Thread Starter
Thanks Gary, I owe you one.
I'll check that out Jay, or I'll only use 1-4 and avoid reverse.
I'll check that out Jay, or I'll only use 1-4 and avoid reverse.
#17
Instructor
I had the same problem, but it was an entirely different cause. My clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I ran the clutch adjustment out a little bit and voila! Problem gone. You have to get the clutch FULLY disengaged or it will stick in reverse.
#18
Instructor
Originally Posted by Jughead
You know what's really funny? This shifter worked just fine when I had it fitted to the tranny when the engine/tranny weren't in the car yet.
Didn't read that before I posted. I think I may have hit the nail right on the head. If you put in a new clutch when you dropped the tranny this is almost definitely it. I had to run my adjustment all the way to the end of the rod to get it working right.
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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Well see, there's plenty of us here that drive in reverse all the time. Some of us wouldn't recognize first gear if it could talk. Just get in an buckle up then backup all the way man.
BTW can u buy one of them truck monkeys that can drive too?
BTW can u buy one of them truck monkeys that can drive too?