websparks

Hey guys,

Just bought my first Vette, a 76 L48, and would like some advice on replacing the power steering valve, which works fine, but leaks. I have a rebuilt valve ready to go in, but have been unable to find any installation information on procedures, settings, adjustments, and the like.

From the looks of it, it seems that replacing the valve is as simple as:
1) Removing the 4 hoses;
2) Loosening the pinch bolt for the relay rod;
3) Unthreading the valve off the relay rod;
4) Threading the new valve onto the relay rod;
5) Tightening up the pinch bolt;
6) Installing the 4 hoses.

Looks too simple and I suspect that there have to be some settings, adjustments, and torques particular to installing the valve.

Appreciate any help.

Regards, Mike

The_Dude

You will need a small pitman arm puller to get the valve loose from the pitman arm. Autozone has free loaner tools.

SCS Red80

Just finished doing mine today and it wasn’t that bad at all. You don’t need a puller to get the control valve off the pitman arm, the procedure in the service manual says to use a big hammer as a backing, and then hit the other side with a regular hammer and the control valve will come loose - worked for me. I’m sure a pickle fork would work as well. Other than that take your time and make sure you re-connect the hoses nice and tight without cross-threading and it should go smooth. Make sure you diagram how the hoses come off, the two from the PS pump are different so that’s a no brainier, but the two that got to the cylinder from the control valve do cross - its important to remember which goes where. I would definitely recommend the service manual for this and future projects. Like I said take your time and if you get stuck, just ask – the guys and gals on this forum are amazing, you’re sure to find the answer here.

Steve

Stoge

I believe you are also supposed to count the number of times you rotate the old control valve to get it off of the car and rotate the new one onto the car the same number of times. It helps keep the control valve centered or something.

I need to do this myself, mine leaks like crazy.

Jim Shea

The following paper and three scans will help in replacing the control valve and reinstalling the hoses.

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ValveR...ance07OC01.doc

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ValveR...alancePic1.doc

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ValveR...alancePic2.doc

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/StrgHoseValvetoCylPic.doc

You should really purchase a Chevrolet Service Manual as well as the AIM book for your Vette. They really assist in the vast majority of chores that occur with our C3 Vettes.

GaryS

First - listen to what Jim has to say. Next, get yourself a copy of the GM Service Manual for your car. It tells you in step-by-step detail how to do ALL of the repairs on your car. This is a very easy job (especially with the before mentioned book).
Gary

Edzred72

Couple more tips: Push the metal portion of the hoses into the valve and make sure that flare fitting seats....and hold it...before you start tightening the nut. You may have to balance the valve when finished. Service manual has the procedure.
Good Luck
Eddie

87bob

I agree with all the responses before mine. I have recently replaced mine for the second time. But here is why. I bought the first one from a good Corvette parts house. They don't rebuild them just sell rebuilts. They give a one year warranty. The first failed just after the year was up. I'm not bad mouthing them which is why I'm not going to mention their name. They offered me another one at no charge but I don't want to do this yearly. Then I got one from Van Steel a supporting vendor of the "Fourm". They were very helpful. 1)They told me to flush out the system. 2)Do not use auto taransmission fluid. Plus their rebuild is warranted for 5 yes five years. Their rebuilds are pressure checked and pre-balanced. The rebuilt unit came with the rock guard which the first one did not. The cost was the same. So I'll now have a unit that I don't have to worry about for a long time.