zwede

Started the rear suspension overhaul today. Just got done removing the first trailing arm. I will install new bushings, spindles, bearings, general cleanup and paint. With all the threads we've been having lately about bearing setup etc I thought I'll make a webpage about it with pictures.

So is there any specific area you want covered in extra detail? I'm not going to cover the actual t-arm removal from the car. It's just removing bolts & nuts. I'll detail disassembly, bearings and free-play adjustment.

My plan is to do one T-arm this weekend, drive the car next week and then do the other side next weekend. Drive again and do the diff the weekend after. The diff needs new stub-axles and clean-up.

stpman

I can't wait to see the pictures, I have to do my TA's in the next few months.
I will throw one question out........I have Poly bushings for the front of the arms, do they need to be staked in or just installed in the old shell and insert the new sleeve?

Steve

zwede

Nope. Only stock rubber bushings are staked. You're getting off easy.

mrvette

Zwede, the only thing I"m curious about is using the press so many times to get the 'just right' setup, having to experiment with shims.....

frankly, I think turtlevette has the right idea.....when I do mine, I think I will take a brake hone to the inner race on mine, to allow a slip fit....

GENE

CA-Legal-Vette

Gene,

How do you do the slip fit and still keep the runout in spec? I've seen the threads but not ever seen this discussed.

Zwede,

Look forward to the web site. I'm particularly interested in the measurements and adjustments needed. Great idea.

cardo0

Good luck zwede. This is going to be interesting. Tool count and parts total cost would be nice too. cardo0

goinbroke

Great idea Zwede..... looking forward to it. I'll be interested in which "specialty" tools you purchased, borrowed, made, or did without because of a different or better way.
Too bad we have big D between us......it would be fun to watch your progress. I'm in Ennis (Ellis county)

Z-man

In the interest of science, you should "donate" your car as an experimental vehicle. You could then do one side slip-fit and the other side press-fit and document both sides. We could then see which one lasts longer. It will be a valid comparison since both sides will be driven in the same environment!! That would end the controversy...

Actually, it sounds like a great idea. I think some shots of the general disassembly/assembly would be helpful with some attention paid to adding/measuring the shims since there is usually some confusion in that area. I'll also be interested to see your work on the differential..

mrvette

CA-Legal, I think it would be just the inner race of the inner bearing, the outer race would be in the hub, and the inner race of the outer bearing would be still pressed home, but with the shims properly selected, and the nut torqued down, that inner race to the inner bearing, right behind the yoke is not moving anywhere....thought this was discussed long ago, with turtlevette saying the same thing, and that indeed a '63-64?? vette had them on a slip fit....
Now when I say slip fit, I"m not talking something so loose it falls on and off, just not needing more than a tap or two from smallish hammer to get that axel out....

GENE

Bullshark

Great Idea Zwede,.....I will pay special attention to the diff phase. That's on my LT-1 todo list.

Bullshark

73ragtop

Zwede; have you thought about documenting some of these procedures on video? From your website, one can easily tell you do really good, precise, and often innovative work. Buy a good Power Mac G5 and make us a professional caliber video on this stuff, especially your air conditioning overhaul. I'll bet many of us would be willing to pay for one if it's up to your usual standards.

mandm1200

Looking forward to seeing how you're doing it. I had my t-arms off for the past several weeks. I just got a spindle knocker and used it last night on one spindle. The directions said to use a 2 pound hammer; luckily I just picked up a 4 pound hammer before reading this. I had to hit it at leat 30 or 40 times to remove it. I am now considering to hone the inner bearing a tad to make it a little easier to get on. After disassembling, everything looks fine. My only reasons for removing were to grease the bearing and paint the parts. I'll be replacing the inner seal but unsure if I want to remove the outer bearing to change the outer seal. If I leave things as is, I won't have to re-shim things (unless endplay is not in spec after reassembling).
My situtation is a little different than many others. When I separated from my wife, all I got was a suitcase of clothes. I had to start all over with buying of hand tools, jacks, power tools, etc.

74 vert

I like the idea of posting the disassembly and reassembly. I had the back of my car checked locally and I was told the back of the car was in good shape. But I do have some work to do in the back as I'm missing shims on the driver rear TA and the passenger side only has 4 wheel studs, one is broken. I've been driving as is, but hope to tear the rear of the car down this fall/winter.

GTR1999

Zwede,
Whose spindles are you using? Check the runout in the flange before assembling them. I had new spindles runout .005-.009".
Gary

goinbroke

Oh....glad you mentioned that......probably a good idea to check the one I'm dealing with now.
BTW....Gary.....sent you an PM.

zwede

Using new spindles from fastcorvette. I will check runout... on my list. But how would I check them before assembly? I was planning on assembling the hub and then measure.

zwede

Update on progress: Turned out I had the inner bearing from hell. Spindle just would not come out. 12 ton press didn't impress it. Sledge didn't impress it. Finally I cut the bearing with an angle grinder fitted with a cut-off disk. Could only cut through half of the inner bearing race before the housing of the grinder touched the case. Did some more sledge work, still wouldn't budge. Figured the press was cheap, let's see if I can break it. Cranked on the press... and some more... and then a loud BANG. Figured the press was history. But wait... the f-ing spindle actually popped out! Remember, this is with only HALF the bearing still in there and it took all the press could give to get it out. It had one mexico and one japan bearing in it. Play was 0.008". Still in spec, but felt slightly rough turning it.

I will make the new bearing an almost slip-fit.

Then I cleaned all the parts and painted with POR15.

Hopefully I will get to setting the new bearings tomorrow, but I want to clean up the frame and POR15 it so it might be tuesday.

goinbroke

I'll be interested to get my spindle and old bearings to work tomorrow and take some measurements. I'm curious to see how much press these things actually have. A general rule of thumb is .0009" to .0011" per inch of diameter on press fits. I pulled my spindle (on the car) with a slide hammer and the outer bearing with a bearing splitter. Both seemed to have an unusual amout of interference. When using a press..... sometimes a little heat will help break things loose.......just brush it lightly with a torch while the press is under load.

GTR1999

Zwede,
I chucked the spindle in a lathe,or you could locate it on centers. I used a "Last Word" indicator on the flange and very slowly rotated it by hand. When I called the seller and told him about the runout and how I checked it he said to face it off. I already knew that, I was just informing him so he could provide some quality control on his product.
Unfortunately I learned the hard way not to trust the quality of parts available today.
BTW I use a 20 ton press and get that loud bang every time. I have to get some "I" beam to make up a high rise press plate to help remove the bearings.
Gary