goinbroke

I expected to find a 3/4"-16 thread (standard fine thread) on the rear spindle. I'm seeing a 3/4"-20......is this correct?...or is there something fishy going on?

Is it ok to use a slide hammer to pop the spindle out once the nut and flange are off?

Thanks

jbegler

The thread is 3/4-20. Mine came off pretty easy, however I did damage the thread on one side. A 3/4-20 die is available, but really hard to find. I sent it to a machine shop to clean up the threads. Just try to protect the threads and pull it off.

redvetracr

Snap-On sells a 3/4-20 thread chaser...
...redvetracr

goinbroke

Thanks guys.....I work as a machinist so I can chase those threads......just wanted to be sure. Someone has already been into this one side at some point. The end of the threads had a pretty good ding in them. I got the nut off ok, but it's chewed up enough that I'll need a new one.
Back to the slide hammer. I rented one and the spindle is coming out after about 10 slams. Question though.....the service manual says the outer bearing will stay on the shaft during removal. When I look down behind the hub I'm not seeing the bearing.....just the spindle bearing journal. Am I about to screw something up????

noskillz

I don;t know If I would have used a slide hammer. TO much of a chance at mushrooming the end. Most people press the spindle out. I boogered my threads up pretty good on one side. Luckly spindles are not that expensive.

goinbroke

Guess I should have been a little clearer. I'm using the slide hammer attached to the hub studs pulling the spindle through form the outside......same way you would pull an axle on the solid axle cars. I've moved the spindle out about 1/2" before stopping. Like I said...when I look behind the hub I was expecting to see the outer grease seal and outer bearing coming out with the shaft......but decided to stop and get some opinions.

GTR1999

3/4-20 is correct,use a nut or make a coupling to protect the threads.
You can use the slide hammer but I usually press them off. The inner and outer bearings are pressed on so you're getting resistence from the inner bearing. To remove the outer bearing you're going to need the special clam shell bearing splitter sold for this job. You can make one if you have a 14" or larger lathe. One side is counterbored to fit around the outer seal and bearing race. There are jack screws on the side to pop off the bearing. You might fit a Snap-On puller on it also.
Make up a bearing setup tool so you can setup the new bearings without hammering them. You don't want to hammer the new bearings when you install them. You can make a puller using the 3/4-20 thread or use a press.
Gary

goinbroke

Thanks Gary....I think what I'm seeing behind the hub is the shaft seal area. I'm thinking I just haven't moved it far enough yet to pop the outer seal and bearing into view. The slide hammer works quite well btw. I have an outer bearing puller (splitter) that a local bearing house loaned me. It has the jack screws that you describe. I'm planning to make a set-up tool.....just need to get the spindle out to take some deminsions. The shoulder to shoulder length should be the only critical deminsion. naturally the journal fits would be a slip fit. I'm thinking I'll probably make a spindle installation tool also too....to keep from having to hammer things back in. I'm doing all this "on the car" so I can press the outer brg. but will need the installation tool to pull everything together. Sure would have been easier if they had used standard threads.
Thanks for your help

GTR1999

You can make an install tool. I made one but never used it. I use a press to install. You might not get a accurate setup by doing this on the car. I recommend you set them up using a fixture in a vise.
When I setup my first set, Tom454 became my "mentor" and offered some great advice. One thing is to setup the bearings holding them vertical to eliminate side play in the bearings. Since you have access to machinery it would be very easy for you to make up a bearing housing holding fixture. I used 5/8" aluminum plate,bored a hole in the center for the housing to sit flat and 4 bolt holes to mount it to the plate. I can post a picture if you like once I get to my shop computer.
I set them to .0015"-.002" endplay with just spindle oil on the bearings. Use a surface grinder to fit the spindle spacer and then Mobil 1 red grease once you get the endplay correct.
Good luck,
Gary

goinbroke

Gary...a pic of that set-up fixture would be great....I'd really appreciate that. I did alot of searching the archives and remember Tom454 talking about setting the thrust vertically. We have a surface grinder so getting the shim down where it needs to be can be done. I'm planning to shoot for .002" dry. Before I started this project I was getting .008 to .009 both sides (checking on the car).......which gave a disturbing amount of wheel rock. These checks were done with the halfshaft and caliper off. I've never heard any bearing noise....just trying to correct a problem before it becomes a BIG problem.
Again....thanks very much

vttedrm

I'm hearing a growling noise from the back wheel that gets faster as the car goes faster. I think it could be either my bearing or spindle.

I've followed this thread and there's only one thing I don't understand. The part after "rear spindle.....couple of questions" Looks like I'll be visiting my mechanic friend.

You guys did narrow it down for me though...thanks.

goinbroke

If you have a mechanic do it....be sure he is "up" on the correct way to set these spindles up. From what I've been able to gather (especially in small towns like me) the mechanic simply pulls it apart....puts in the new bearings....the same factory shim....some grease.....and buttons it back up. If it was set up from the factory with .008" end play then you're probably going to have the problem again. Remember that when these cars were made the .008 was considered ok, but that's at least twice what it should be.....knowing what we know now. I have a friend that drove a new 71 to college and had both sides fail before he graduated.

vttedrm

Thanks. My friend works at the local Corvette shop. That's all they do is work on Corvette's all day. I'll show your post to him. Thanks for the heads up.

Ken

GTR1999

Here you go


Gary

goinbroke

Alrighty...I see what you're talking about now. I may end up making something like that. As it is right now the bearing housing is still on the car. I have the spindle out, but am seeing some more troubling things. The inner spindle journal has some gall marks running lengthwise. The flange face that makes up against the inner bearing has some heavy scoring (galling) as does the bearing. I'm guessing it would take at least .005" (.010"max) to clean up the flange face. This may be normal? Remember.... this is my first bearing job. The washer that goes behind the nut is slightly concave (I think the may be normal) but is showing radial fractures starting from the ID and running outward. The inner bearing is slightly discolored....(heat??). It's pretty apparent that whoever was into this thing before was in a hurry. The brake rotor was installed wrong....access holes to the e-brake were not lined up...and how they got this ding on the end of the threads AFTER the nut was installed is beyond me.
Thanks again for the help Gary