Tele_Man

Ok, I think I'm ready to replace my carpeting. Got the Al Knoch 80/20 loop carpet. Got a roll of the Reflectix insulation. Got a copy of the installation procedures from the FAQ site. My only question is regarding the use of adhesive. I've seen some guys suggesting the use of 3M Spray Adhesive #77 to anchor the insulation and carpeting. But the description of this adhesive is a little scary. It seems to form a permenent bond. It that really the recommended installation technique? What if I need to remove the carpeting in the future for some reason? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

80TexasC3

I just finished the back end and have the front end ready for the carpet now. I use adhesive for the Dynamat then Reflectix to the dynamat. Probably was over kill... but I want to quiet the road noise and really control the heat (especially in Dallas).

I am not using adhesive for the carpet to the Reflectix as it will eliminate my ability to ever pull it up for work... Also, GM did not appear to do this either as the carpet is molded to the area and is held down by the door sill on the sides and the center panels in the center.










Oh YEA... then I use Corvette America Sound Deadener in the floorboard, under the seats and on the tunnel. Overall this combination is no thicker than the original jute that was in the car. "I love technology advancements".



[Modified by 80TexasC3, 12:22 PM 6/24/2004]

Tele_Man

Thanks for your advice. What is Dynamat?

80TexasC3

Picked it up at ultimate electronics... very thin (VERY HEAVY)... absorbs vibration and noise. Found that current luxury cars are using it to cut down road noise (Lexus, etc)... BTW...stuff is expensive... $250 for a box that covered the backend, tunnel and floorboard.

I covered all areas.... All I want to hear is the Stereo (and V8 when I step on it).

Tele_Man

Wow, that stuff costs more than the carpeting!!! No offense, but I think I'll skip that piece. Besides, I'm not too concerned about noise insulation. The Dynamat wouldn't deaden the screams from my passengers when I stomp on the acceralator.

80TexasC3

There you go! I wouldn't do it again unless I could pick it up on ebay for around $20. Oh well... live and learn.. AGAIN.

Tele_Man

Thanks again for all your help. Have a great day!

gkvetteuno

FWIW, all the c3's I've replaced the carpet on(up to 73) had the originals glued on with adhesive. The insulation was glued on(GM used a lot) and then the carpet glued to the insulation. Even then, some wants to buckle or sag under its own weight especially over the rear wheel wells, rear bulkhead, sides of consoles ect. Flat areas don't seem to matter as much as the vertical areas.

80TexasC3

Someone must have been taking a "short cut" on the production line when mine rolled down it in 1980!

Ed

checklst

I used Thermo Guard it took 3 rolls of this stuff($18ea) has a foil on one side and jute padding on the other, the reason I like it was it was thin and molded vary easily to the compound curves. I glued it down tight to the body making sure of no air pockets to transmit heat or noise.

I used a combination of brush on glue, and 3M for the carpet. The brush on gave me a lots of positioning time to work the carpet in right and the 3M helped in the areas that needed a instant stick.

Now that’s its done I am glad I used a thin material because the carpet had jute backing of its own, and a thicker material would have made the carpet install a lot harder. IMO

carriljc

It stays soft and if you ever need to remove it, you can just scrape it off. It's inexpensive and you can use as much as you wish. I only used it in the rear compartment, didn't want to glue down the front in case I needed to ever remove it. Of course, it's been about 10 years now and I've only removed it once to do the seats.....so you might as well glue the whole thing down.

6318

There is a 'generic' product that works as well as Dynomat and is significantly cheaper...it's called BrownBread...might check into that...it's what I'm doing mine with...

sjr1971

Be careful of how much padding you place behind the shifter. Your emerg brake handle liner needs room to glide foward. If restricted it will bind and break. Test this out.

zwede

Yep. I used brown bread in the 71. I liked it better than dynomat because the BB formed more easily and really bonds to the fiberglass. Dynomat doesn't seem to bond well at all. I had some old dynomat in the car that was about 5 years old. I was able to just pull it out!

I used a 70 sq ft roll of BB and it was enough to cover the entire interior and then a second layer on the floor and a total of 3 layers in the luggage area. Going heavy on the luggage area is important because it acts as a resonance chamber (drone).

lostpatrolman

How well does this stuff work to stop heat and sound? How does this stuff compare with the paint that has little insulating bubbles in it such as http://www.metalshield.com/????

zwede

I got it for the sound insulation. For whatever reason mine never had a heat problem. I saw some tests on the viper board where a guy measured sound levels before and after and there was a noticable difference. Don't own a sound level mike so I haven't done any measurements myself. Subjectively I notice less road noise and less exhaust drone (actually there is no drone unless I go 1200 rpm in 5th lugging the engine).

80TexasC3

Just found DYNAMAT a whole lot cheaper at Summit Racing this evening. Am going to purchase the door kit and put it under the new panels.

1mpalss

Do a search on the Impala SS Forum for Gray's Ice Shield. They sell this stuff at building/roofing supply places like Home Depot, Lowes, and hardware stores. I have not used it yet (trouble finding it in my area of California) but it is supposed to be the same exact product as Dynomat Extreme, only it costs a LOT less. There are some awesome posts on noise control on the Impala Forum for anyone interested in a more in-depth discussion.