norvalwilhelm

Being cheap I built my own bump steer gage. It consists of an alumimum plate that bolts to the hub, an alumimum channel that sits on the floor, but being a little lite I add a weight to make sure it doesn't move and a couple of bearing blocks or a hinge . I made the frame out of solid round stock because I had it. It can consist of 2 dial gauges, one on each end but I prefer a wheel on the back and a single gage on the front.
For clamps I used these out of a chemistry lab, I had a bunch of them in a draw so I used them.
This is a overall shot
Double click to enlarge

This is the wheel I used on the back, it is a tiny gear with a little bearing in the middle, It just runs up and down the plate moving the frame in and out and it follows the movement of the plate.
The plate is 1/4 inch aluminum. I also TIGHTEN THE WHEEL BEARING BEFORE BEGINNING to prevent the plate from rotating.
Double dial gages can be used but are more trouble.

You also need a jack to raise and lower the A arm for taking measurements
A little dark in this picture
Double click

This is how I used the pillow blocks


You can make a version of this out of anything including wood if you want. While it is not used often I do check whenever making adjustment.
Caster/camber/toe must be set before starting any measurement. I take readings, adjust the outer tie rod lower and keep taking measurements and you will see if they improve or not.

One last thing, you need to know the height the car normally rides at, the distance from the center of the spindle to the upper lip of the fender, set this distance using the jack, this is your Zero or starting point, I line up the dial gage on this center line and the wheel on the back also, I also tape a 6 inch ruler to the alumimum plate so that the dial gage sits at 3 inches. I then jack up or lower the jack from this 3 inch starting point and take measurements every inch.
Remember lowering the jack for bump up since the body is sitting still and the suspension is moving, everything is opposite.
Also check the dial gage so you know which way is bump out or bump in.
Good luck and I will try to answer any questions regarding this or problems that might arise.
I have done is a number of times so feel confident that is is a accurate way of doing it.


[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 6:37 PM 2/1/2004]

427V8

Norval,
I like the bumpsteer gauge, mine is just two pieces of wood and two door hinges. I drilled one board with holes so I can adjust the pin and gauge up and down to keep the measurement point in the center of the wheel. ( not while taking measurements of course )

I actually put a jackstand under the spindle and the jack under that car. I was worried about side effects due to camber changes and not being in line with the center of the axel.

norvalwilhelm

I like the bumpsteer gauge, mine is just two pieces of wood and two door hinges

Thanks 427V8. There is no reason wood and door hinges wouldn't work. I used what I had and so did you. The springs must be out to do this check and that is the hard part. This is the only reason I went to coil overs. Just to be able to quickly remove the springs, no other reason.
You should invest in the caster/camber gage . It really makes adjusting the front end easy and I believe in it's accuracy. I can set it, check it after driving a few days or weeks and the readings stay the same.
My best alignments come from home and my worst from the dealer.

comp

sweet guy's :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

ddecart

Cool. Mine looks like this:

But then again, it's not homemade, either :D

Have you made one for camber gain?


[Modified by ddecart, 9:07 PM 2/1/2004]

LiveandLetDrive

I think he just uses the gauge for camber.

I like it :thumbs: As for me, I think I'm going to put off the bumpsteer modifications until this summer, so I will have a garage and the time to tinker and do things right. Doing things in the parkinglot with limited time for sunlight often leads to a rushed job. Hmm, what to do until then....

-Chris

SmokedTires

Wow that's really neat Norval. I'm going to need & save all your suspension tips & tricks for later reference ;)

:cheers:

norvalwilhelm

[QUOTE]Cool. Mine looks like this:

But then again, it's not homemade, either :D

Have you made one for camber gain?


You Win ddecart. :) :) I can't compete with that. But if I could just borrow it for a weekend???

ddecart

I wish I could borrow it for a weekend :(

NHvette

:lol: :lol:
It would take all weekend just to find the ON switch !!!

:lolg: :lolg:

Oh - thanks Norval - for posting the pictures. Now I get it ... and have all the 'stuff' to make one.


[Modified by NHvette, 11:02 AM 2/2/2004]

norvalwilhelm

Seriously guys with the few alignment tools that I have I feel I can set the front and rear end up like I want it with very reasonable accuracy. Remember tools are only as good as the man operating them. Take your time, trust nothing, prove everything to yourself and if the measurements are NOT repeatable time and again something is wrong.
Understand what you are doing and if not ask the forum
Happy aligning guys. :cheers: :cheers:

ddecart

It does look like a pretty decent setup for the do-it-yourselfer. I assume you're measuring dislacements and turning them into an angle of steer?

norvalwilhelm

. I assume you're measuring dislacements and turning them into an angle of steer?


NO I am not. I am just taking the readings and adjusting them to what I want. I set caster at plus 5 positive, plus and minus nothing that I can read on the gage. I also set camber at minus .75, if it doesn't ready this exactly I adjust until it does. I set toe at zero with large toe plates bolted the the hubs. All front bearings are adjusted tight to take play out of them.
I set bump steer at .010 or less over 7 inches of travel.
That's about it, I set the rear for toe , camber and make sure both side point straight ahead.
Wouldn't know how to turn those readings into degrees?????

norvalwilhelm

I finished up the passengers side bump setting this evening and ended up with .002 maximum toe change over 5 inches. The last inch up and down caused the runout to be .010.
I ended up with a 1.900 spacer. That is a large spacer so tomorrow I will carefully machine a spacer to these dimensions and weld it to the steering arm.
I still have to do the drivers side but it will take less then 1/2 hour to figure out what that side likes.
My son took the upper A arms again tonight for repowdercoating after modifying them yet again.
The final front end assembly should be soon.