Steve Straus

I'm removing the factory front rotors from my car and replacing them with VBP slotted rotors. I've drilled and tapped the rivets out, but can't get the rotor off of the hub.

Any tips? I'd search on the subject, but search is all hosed up.

Thanks

79VetteMike

The rust has bonded them to the hubs. Take a rubber or brass mallet and give it a good couple of whacks.

Steve Straus

I progressed from rubber to brass to hammer to sledge. I don't want to hit it so hard that I bend the spindles.

Older Than Dirt

I just recently did mine.Mine still would not separate so I took them off the spindles.It only takes a few minutes to pull the rotor, hub and bearings and then it is much easier to break them loose without damaging anything.

Steve Straus

Yay, looks like I get to go get a set of wheel bearing seals from autozone....

Thanks

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Steve

norvalwilhelm

Sliding the hubs off the spindles doesn't damage the seals, You don't need them to take the hubs off, Just remove the cotter key, the nut and slide the whole thing off the spindles.

Steve Straus

I know, but I'm not sure if these are original or not, and I just didn't want to not have any around in case I needed them. If I'm taking the hub off, I might as well inspect the bearings. I picked up some correct length wheel studs while I was out btw.

Thanks

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Steve

norvalwilhelm

picked up some correct length wheel studs while I was out btw.

Is correct length 1 3/4 ? I went to 3 inch so the lug nuts can be threaded all the way through. After stripping a few 7/16 nuts with 85 foot pounds I upgraded to 1/2 inch, 3 inch fully threaded nuts.

norvalwilhelm

Regardless of their length they work as replacement studs for the upper A arm cross shafts, They have the correct nut size and knurl for pressing in place of a damaged cross shaft stud.

Steve Straus

I think they are Actually 2", it's whatever Autozone's computer lists as the correct stud. I pressed them in with my vise as much as I could, then oiled the threads and pulled them tight with a nut. It was very smooth, and it was clear when they were pulled all the way through. The bearings were NDH bearings made in the USA and looked great (no pitting or discoloration), so I cleaned them up and repacked them with synthetic grease. It all went pretty well.

On a sad note, I noticed one of my new VBP sport rotors was damaged in shipping, so I have to send that back.

UPS rules..

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Steve