Montana

What do yall think about puttin this in a 75 stingray?

CHEV 383/450HP
Hi Performance Balanced Engine
With Pro Lightning Heads
450HP @ 5500rpm and 460ft lbs of torque @ 4500rpm this engine has a rough idle and will run on leaded or unleaded 91 Octane pump fuel.
3.750" stroke crank
5.7" forged big beam rods with ARP rod bolts
10 to 1 compression hypereutectic flat top pistons
Seasoned 4-bolt main block
New Hydraulic flat tappet cam with .512" valve lift
New Pro Lightning 64cc heart-shaped chamber, 200cc intake runners, cast iron heads with 2.02"Int/1.600"Exh swirl polished stainless valves with undercut stems for even more flow
Heads cast with extra thick deck surface
Hardened exhaust seats for use with both leaded or unleaded fuels
New 1.440" High performance springs set up to match cam
New Chrome moly retainers and hardened keepers
New High temperature valve seals
New Bronze valve guides
New Screw-in rocker studs with guide plates
New Roller rocker arms
New Hardened push rods
New Perfect Circle rings
New Double row timing set
New High volume oil pump with welded big pickup screen and steel drive shaft and steel guide
New Revolutionary 1-pc design molded rubber oil pan gasket with load limiters to prevent over-tightening and higher temperature resistance than standard cork-rubber gaskets
New Brass expansion plugs
New Edelbrock Victor Jr aluminum intake manifold
All parts are painted separately before assembly for that show quality look
This engine is covered by a 12 month, 12,000 mile written warranty

$3500
:confused:

Never Finished

This is my 2 cents worth. I guess that's why we're here.

The idea is great. It looks like good specs, but how precise is the machine work and are all the parts high quality? You want this thing to last. It seems to me if you get a good deal on a motor some of the time consuming precise measuring stuff maybe left out or shortcut. There are little things like: hyperutectic pistons need a larger ring gap on the top ring to compensate for the additional expansion due to the heat retained. Also, that's a lot of compression for pump gas with iron heads. You probably need a narrow centerline cam to bleed some of the compression. What are you going to use the car for, cruising or racing? Something without low end torque is not fun to drive in traffic. If you have an automatic do you have some added stahl? Are the rest of the components in the drive train in good shape (a motor like this will point out the deficiencies in a hurry)?

I am doing nearly the same engine right now. It has less compression (9.2), a slightly milder hydraulic roller cam, and aluminum heads. I am willing to sacrifice a few HP (and pay a few more bucks) for drivability because I don't plan to race and it will be driven--alot.

I rebuilt the rest of the drivetrain in anticipaiton of this engine step (In fact I chickened out a little because I don't want to rebuild stuff again). I just hope it's tough enough.

TheVin

Seems like a good deal--how about you buying it and put it in my 75? :jester and I'll let you know how it is...

Montana

haha.. yea.. sure.. in the mail, sent it 1st class overnight with a mechanic to install it.

Thats the thing about buying off-brand products... you never know. But it does have a 1 yr/12k mile warranty.
About the cam I could go to a 2500 stall speed torque convertor.
Should I go for the low end and midrange power or top end?
I would use for cruising and racing.

standup

.......don't think you'll do much cruising with this high revving setup.....

For $3500 grand, I'd be asking questions about how much machining has been done to the crank and block.......these are the big dollar parts in the bottom end.......and a "seasoned 4 bolt mains" sounds used to me......no doubt if it's been bored out 60 thou, there will be no future rebuilds.....

I think you need to decide how much cruising and how much and what type of racing you want to do.......then match the motor to your driving style......don't just look at the HP/Torque figures.....they look great on paper, but suck when you're stuck in traffic and can't keep it going.....

I'm pretty sure you can buy a new crate motor for less.........it will be less HP, but for dial in drag racing it'll be fine....... :cheers:

Montana

The guy has like.. every engine setup imaginable.. Could you tell me what figures would need changed in order for it to idle okay.... heres a quote from the seller, "To get 400 to 500HP out of a small block chevy it is going to have a fairly big cam in it and it will have a rough idle. With that big of a cam you would benifit to go to a 2500 stall speed torque convertor also. For low end and mid-range power the best choice is the 383/450HP." I can ask him a question if theres something we dont understand. and about the preciseness... the company builds them in 10 business days.. that tells ya something.

Thanks


[Modified by Montana, 7:02 AM 12/30/2003]

standup

......Since you have $3500 to spend, there's a lot of options for you besides this motor.......you could rebuild your existing motor or buy a brand new crate engine, like a ZZ4.......

This 383 isn't a bargain either...you'll need a big carb and the block machining is still in question....it's a racing engine and there are plenty of them out there.....

...GOOD if you want to take it to the track every week and race...

....BAD if you're on the street and throttle out of a corner too much and too soon.....you'll end up turning the car around on itself or worse....

....EXPENSIVE when you start breaking things...and you will....like when the flywheel comes up through the dash because you didn't install a scattershield....and if you're not going to fix it yourself, then cha-ching.......

My suggestion is that you read some books/mags on engine buildups (not just race motors), talk to other engine builders, members of car clubs, people at the track, members of this Forum.....so you can develop a perception of how a 350HP to 450HP motor will perform in your Vette........
:cheers:

Montana

will do, thanks for the advice!