BSeery

There have been a few posts floating around on people wanting to build their own set of ramps to raise a C3 for work underneath. I took some ideas from these posts and made some blueprints for others to use.

Click on each picture for a larger version. The right click to save the picture on your computer.
I have not designed the drive up ramp part yet, but that is very simple.
I have included a list of materials needed to build these. In addition you will just need simple tools like a drill, power screwdriver, saw, hammer, nails and long wood screws. If you want wider versions, replace the 2x10's with 2x12's. The materials cost me about $85.00 at home depot.



Here is the pedestal. This is what sits under each tire.

Here is the bridge, the part that connects the front and rear pedestal on each side.



Ramps connect to the back pedestals and let you drive up. You can also just use the ramps and the rear set of the pedestals to raise the front of the car for oil changes and simple front end work.

I take no responsibility for any injuries, damage, death, dismemberment or failure in the use or building of these ramps. I have taken my best efforts to make a good design for others to use, but I cannot foresee others abilities to build or use them in a proper manner. Just CYA.
Here are pictures of the original design -










[Modified by BSeery, 1:07 PM 10/9/2003]

Fevre

Thanks! :thumbs:

1972 Shark

Maybe it's just me but I don't see the diagram for the Ramp section.
:confused:


[Modified by 1972 Shark, 5:34 PM 10/8/2003]

battsup

He said he didnt make that part, they all cant look the same man :lol:

1972 Shark

Doh! :crazy:

Stewart's74

Good Job :thumbs:

My69

Really nice job. Thank you very much. :thumbs:
Mike

BSeery

You can see the pictures of the ramp design, but the measurements will be different. You could go with some generic 6 foot ramps but not everybody will need them that long.

Best way is to set the two rear pedestals and drive your car towards them. Place a board in between the car and the pedestal and figure how close you can get the car to the pedestal (how short the ramp can be) without the front end dragging. Mine is very, very low. I can't even get my car on most flatbed tow trucks, so my ramps will be much longer than others. But the pictures show the general idea.

If you want them stronger you can do like 80xFlags did with his and make them solid wood inside the pedestals. Or you can even put a stack of 2x4s on the inside to support them. I don't think it's needed for a C3, and it would just add weight. But if your looking to do a truck or bigger car, I would support the inside of the pedestals in some way.



You see his design is solid and will support anything short of a dump truck. I had no way to cut lumber that thick.

Couple tips when putting them together. Use wood-screws - 2 - 2 1/2 inch min as the wood is 1 1/2" thick. Pre drill all holes that you plan to use screws in, to prevent splitting. When building, attach parts "D" to "B" first, make the box, then put parts "A" on the top and bottom. When doing so, work on the garage floor or another perfectly level place. I was working on a bench that was not and some of my pedestals have a slight rock to them. I am sure the weight of a car will stop that.

SharkAttack

Nice work. It's a shame those fancy docs have "pedestal" mis-spelled. :lol:

JK! :reddevil


[Modified by SharkAttack, 8:31 PM 10/8/2003]

Crash Dummy

Great idea BSeery. And appears it would not take alot of space to stack on one side of my garage when not in use. I'd love to be able to drive the vette up on a Saturday morning and do work cleaning off the surface rust on the frame while on the roll-around. And change out that 300lb mono-spring that the last owner mistakenly put in that is way too bouncy. :cheers:

80Xflags

:D :D :rofl:

I had some extra 4x4s floating around from when I previously made cribbing, so I figured, why not use them and get them out of the way. Afterall, I wouldn't need them with the ramps.

Wood screws should work just fine. I used an air powered framing nailer since we have one . . . just watch out for splitting if you use one of those.

And like BSeery said about the ramp portion, it's pretty much a custom job. If you look close, mine actually go outside my garage onto the gravel which is a good inch lower than the cement floor. They're held in to the pedestals with carriage bolts used just as pins, and are beveled to mate up flush with the top of the pedestal.

:seeya
Matt

PS - nice clear plans!!!!! :yesnod:

BSeery

A: Don't change the spring using a pedestal set up lile this! You need to support the frame and let the wheels hang loose. If you drive a car up and remove the spring, the car will FALL !! The spring is what is holding the car UP!
B: Don't change the spring, change the shocks. When going to a mono-spring you must use shocks valved for mono-springs, to counter act the rebound (the bounce you feel). Check out Vette Brakes and Parts for correct shocks. That is your real problem, not the spring.

jrzvette

Great idea and thanks for the plans., but looking at your pics you show a C4. Can this set-up also be used for C3's? :jester


[Modified by 6t9l4t6, 4:38 PM 10/9/2003]

jrzvette

Click on each picture for a larger version. The right click to save the picture on your computer

Is there anyway to print out the plans? I've save them but when I try to print I can't adjust the size to fit, I only get the top left quarter on a full page.

BSeery

I just uploaded newer, smaller, printer friendly documents. You should be able to right click, save-as, and print the new files.

Fixed !

Yeller81

Would it be possible to make the Ramps 20 Inches tall or would that make them to Unstable. Or is 20 inches to high.
Wouldn't want to tip the Vette over .
:steering:

PROSOUTH

Bryan, thanks for posting this and BTW thanks for the Ispell checker, I really needed that too.

I have been looking at a Kwiklift at http://www.kwiklift.com/features.htm and it is 20" from the floor to the bottom of the tire and usually gives 30" to the frame or floor pan. I like this method better myself. I believe it gives better access and can be made from materials as simple as the wood you have shown all the way to steel or aluminum.

I really thing that the perfect setup would be 20 inches high and have a long approach with removable ramps and centers as shown. I think I see one of these in my future. Thanks again Jim :seeya

jpatrick636

THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME!

BSeery

Probably could, but you definitely want to go with 12" wide wood, and even look at putting outriggers on the pedestals to keep them stable. Going that high is a bit much though, and would make working on the top and bottom of the car at the same time a bit of a pain in the azz.

BSeery

The Kwick lift idea is good, but it creates a problem for me. The only way under the car is then through the front or rear. For me, the front is blocked, and the rear has the lifting mechanism. You can roll under the lifts, but you can't drag a tranny or rear end out under those, just not enough room. And, then it's always there, you can't move it out of the way. Every time I pull into my spot I don't want to have to drive up ramps.
With this design the side bridges move out of the way and everything can be piled up in a corner when not being used.