OBL1V1ON

Ive never had to mess with a starter before so replacing one is new territory to me. It cant be that difficult but i just want to ask some questions before i start surgery. What kind of starter do you guys recomend? How hard is this job to do. Are there any unforseen problems that anyone out there has already run into concerning this job.

Let 'er eat!

Pulling the starter is one of the easiest jobs your going to do in the engine area. There are 2 bolts holding it to the block and you might also have a bracket with a blot. The wires should be long enough that after you undo those 2-3 bolts you can let it down to the ground (assuming your under the car with regular jack stands). Then undo the wires (mark them so you know where they go) and you have the starter loose. Take it to your local parts store and trade it in (core charge) for a new one (no need for any kind of an expensive one) $30 - $40 bucks. Reverse for install. No big deal :thumbs:

dath

One more thing to add... Make sure you disconnect the battery. You really don't want to accidently short the positive lead on that thing as it is a monster that goes directly to the battery...

OBL1V1ON

Thnx guys for all the help. It is very much appreciated.

6T9VETT

Replaced the starter on mine a year or so ago. Biggest thing that I learned was to make sure that I used AC Delco parts. I tried using a different (high performance) starter. It just did not work properly. It would be ok for a couple of days then start grinding....one of the worst noises that ya can hear. Stick with original parts....oh yeah and I second the whole disconnecting the battery thing too. :iagree: :chevy

dath

Hope going aftermarket doesn't mess me up... I've just killed two rebuilt starters in two days, so I'm going with a mini starter from probably Proform or Powermaster... The rebuilt starters just don't seem to be up to the quality needed to survive cranking my 10:1 383 that I'm trying to fire up. Plus I think the second starter was really DOA as it started acting up right off... I'm sure the parts store will give me an endless supply of replacement starters, but one-a-day doesn't seem like a good solution to me :rolleyes:

Crash Dummy

Dath,

I will forewarn you that you need to get one of the high torque starters with your engine. I installed the Powermaster 9000 mini-starter rated at 10:1 compression on the 355(9.8:1) and although it works great it is pushing it's limits. Watch out too... most of the high torque starters go to 12 teeth on the pinion gear, but you can get the 9 tooth version if you ask. Both are supposed to work according to the manufacturers and most say they will work with either 153 or 168 tooth flexplates/fly wheels. I had living hell with the 12 tooth starter.

dath

Thanks for the info. I'm leaning toward getting the Proform starter as it costs a bit less and is supposed to work to nearly 12:1. I called Proform and that is the starter the guy on the phone recommended for my 10:1. He said it should work well, but who knows:D If I go with the Powermaster, I was going to get the 180 ft-lb model which is rated to 12:1 since it is the same cost as the 10.5:1 at my local speed shop... I'll check the tooth count on what they give me to see what they give me.

OBL1V1ON

Well the results are in...

I got it out took it to autozone. They wanted to test it so i let them. It turns out the starter is fine. The guys up there think it may have been a connection problem or the ignition switch. So i cleaned up all the contacts and and put it back in. It started like it always does. The only thing they said is if i turn the key and nothing happens again, get under there and patch a jump from the ground to the main terminal and if the starts truns on contact from the main terminal to the ground its the ignition switch. Just thought id run that by you guys.

Let 'er eat!

Yeah I guess we should have started with why you thought it was bad. Usually when they are bad they just spin but don't connect. Other times they make a clicking sound or just do nothing. Sometimes if the are just locked up hitting them with a hammer will get them going.... What they told you should help eliminate the switch. :chevy

zymurgist

Hitting it with a hammer... ahh, that brings back not-so-fond memories of my '77 Firebird. It got to the point where I carried a hammer in the car just for such a purpose. Ended up changing the starter in the parking lot of a company after I had applied for a job there, after convincing my folks to drive 40 miles with some tools.

OBL1V1ON

ok guys sorry to do this agian, but i need help again. It must be the ignition switch because the car is doing the same thing still. So i went ot autozone and got a replacement ign. switch the only problem is is the guy at the counter said it is under the dash near the steering colmn, but i can see anything like what he gave me under there. So, either im not looking hard enough, im looking in the wrong place, or i have the wrong part. I hope someone has some prior experience and can help. :confused:

Stewart's74

No flame intended but the most valuable tools are an assembly manual and a Haynes manual. Hell, I read them for just for fun :crazy:

vettemack

According to the Delco manual, the solenoid requires 7.7v. Mine was failing to start and I measured the voltage and found 7.5v so this is real critical. Cleaning contacts and replacing worn out wiring, bad splices from previous owner, I got the voltage up to 10.8v. Haven't had any problems since.
The 69 manual says the ignition switch is located on top of the mast jacket (steering column) near the front of the dash. It is located inside of the brake pedal support and is completely inaccessible. To remove switch, lower or remove steering column. If you need further instructions, I can email you the page from my manual.
Good luck!

cardo0

:iagree: There are contacts and a contact ring inside the solenoid that become damaged from arcing. Sometimes just a little touch up with sandpaper or even just some contact cleaner spray will do the job. Now I think I remember the contact ring can be turned over and use the opposite side if needed. ;)

dath

Yes, you can flip the contact over and it's really easy to do... I did this on one of my starters recently before it bought the farm completely. I was amazed how simple it is to take apart and fix, wonder why I never bothered before... :rolleyes:

SteveG75

Try replacing the starter solenoid. Mine was failing when hot and it was a cheap replacement.

OBL1V1ON

Well heres the latest news. I got the manual out and found the switch and changed it. So far the car starts every time. However, it did that for a day after i cleaned the contacts. Hopfully it will keep starting. Thnx for the help guys, you are invaluable.

Pat71vette

Wow this sounds like me same problem heres what I found so far.
1) starter acting up and final stoped.
2) Bought rebuild starter, won't line up with flexplate, bought second starter still doesn't line up with flex plate.
3) brought car to service center, they couldn't get either rebuild to line up.
4) they sent the old one out for rebuild and put it back in and it lines up perfectly.
5) pick-up car that morning and that night starter craped out again, had car towed so far 325.00 in hole I just should have bought a high performance starter and be done with it.
6) don't buy a min starter I had one they don't last thats what started this mess two years ago.

P.S. its not your ingition switch or wiring its just a lot heat and draw on the contacts and winding on the starter and they crap out.

dath

Not sure I agree with that. I went through two starters in two days and bought a mini starter and so far it's worked like a champ, though I admit I haven't used it much yet, but enough to know it's better than the rebuilds I was getting... There are a lot of different companies selling mini starters, so it's not amazing to hear that some people have problems with them. I had to shim my other starters, but the mini starter bolted right up with no shimming and cranks much more evenly than the old starters (though this one is a bit slower). Also, within the companies selling mini starters, they have a lot of different models as well, some of which support all the way up to 18:1 compression.

I do *NOT* trust people to rebuild the starters any more. They do not replace all of the parts, just the ones that seem to need it. Not good since the springs in the solenoid can get a little weak over time and cause issues from what I've heard, plus numerous other issues... This is just my experience so far...