ImBatman

Which ones?
Why did you go aluminum?
Are there any iron heads out there as good for a street car?
I really want either the GMPP or Edelbrock heads. I just want to make sure I can justify the $1800 :eek:

bence13_33

The only nice thing about aluminum heads (in my opinion) is the weight savings. If you compare two pairs of identical heads, the only difference being that one pair of heads is cast iron and the other pair is aluminum, the cast iron heads will outperform the aluminum ones.

You'd be surprised at what a pair of GM iron oval port heads will do. I have run a best of 12.1 @ 118 MPH with them. I know Jim (427hotrod) used to run in the low 11s @ 120+ MPH. Granted it does take a little bit of work though. I picked my heads up for $450 and all of the work was already done for me.

I'm also in the market for a pair of aluminum heads. Once you start talking Brodix, Canfield and AFR...you are looking at a minum of around $2000 for a pair of aluminum R-Port heads. Some of the AFR heads are close to $3000.

467-Ratman

I agree with Shane on the heads, the aluminum does have the edge in weight, but the cost is really high. I like my Merlin rect port heads, but I think for the street oval ports are best. Check out the World products web site for Merlins

Jughead

I'm using the GMPP signature series aluminum heads, 110cc chambers, 2.25 vales, 290 intake. I bought them from Sallee Chevy in Oregon. They cost me $825ea about 18 months ago. When I bought them they were one of the best flowing (according to CHP mag) in their size...290. I saved a total of 80 in weight. :eek:

Alwyn678

[QUOTE]The only nice thing about aluminum heads (in my opinion) is the weight savings. If you compare two pairs of identical heads, the only difference being that one pair of heads is cast iron and the other pair is aluminum, the cast iron heads will outperform the aluminum ones.

QUOTE] :withstupid:

zwede

I'm running edelbrock heads on my 454. Besides the 66 lbs in weight savings off the nose of the car it also enables me to run higher compression on pump gas. Personally, if I'm going through the hassle of swapping heads, I'll put aluminum on.

BTW, swapping the pocket ported iron oval ports and a flat-tappet hydraulic to the edelbrock heads and a hydraulic roller with approx the same duration gave me 65 rwhp on the dyno, plus more torque at all rpms.

Wrencher

This is on my list as well as an aluminum radiator. I am doing everything I can (within reason; I'm poor) to lose weight in this porky pig. Having prepared lightweight Datsuns that would routinely whip on V-8 sedans (mainly because the weight would ruin the brakes over a race distance), I'm a firm believer in lowering the overall weight as much as possible. It's like free power.

Hans

427Hotrod

Good heads are always a good investment. Everything else you do to the car will circle how well they flow.

Now some folks think I'm a little extreme, but if I'm going to spend the money, I'd rather go ahead and get the best heads I could swing. The Edelbrock/GM head is a well proven design, but I think once you're talking about spending that kind of money, you need to look for a better flowing head. Yes....you will have to deal with riased ex. ports on some, but some fit just fine. I had to cut and weld two header tubes to make my .600 raised port Brodix fit. Not THAT big of a deal.

Really sit down and decide the rpm range you want. And don't get too hung up on "under 5500"....'cause if that is all you really intend to turn it, stock oval ports can be made to run there. I have a friend with a 10.0 compression 502 with a hyd roller cam that runs 10.20@132 mph in a Camaro with GM iron oval ports. He turns 6500 or so max and it screams.

Look at the Canfields or the AFR's. The as cast AFR's seem to be doing very well, and if you can swing a $700-$800 more that it costs to get them CNC'd, you'd be money ahead. It costs more than that to get a set ported by hand.

Dart also builds a great flowing head. I personally think Brodix has about the strongest/purest casting out there, but I haven't had my hands on a set of AFR's yet. They look awful nice.

I used a set of iron oval port Merlins that were also professionally ported. I got a great deal on them when the owner couldn't afford to pick them up. They are a great head, but out of the box, they need to be ported and cleaned up..they are a little rough. But they are HEAVY!! More than stock!

Spending $2000 or more is pretty hard to do, and you should get lots of performance for it. Don't limit yourself.....


JIM

75 BBC Stingray

I was originally looking at the World Products Oval ports, but the raised exhaust port scared me off. I am planning on the Edelbrock Performer RPM 454-O, or the GM Performace heads. I am planning aluminum due to the lighter weight. I didn't feel that they were that much more expensive than the cast World Products head.

Edelbrock $1718/pair
World Products $1340/pair
(Prices from Jegs)


[Modified by 75 BBC Stingray, 9:04 PM 7/22/2003]

ImBatman

Thanks for the info guys. I have put together many many small blocks and no what I need to spend and don't need to spend. This BB stuff is new to me so I am having to learn as I go and I am trying really hard not to learn the hard way. :yesnod: :crazy: I think my combo is going to be mild compared to some of you guys. The block is a 30 over 2blt, crank is a cast SCAT9000, rods are 3/8. I am hoping for around 10:1 with hyper pistons. Guessing the cam will be in the 246 range at .050. Gearing is 3:70 with a 4spd. Practically speaking I would have to say that most of my driving will be sub 6k. I just want somthing that realy thumps :cool: and can still drive in traffic. :smash:

Wade

zwede

Hmmm... That cam can be driven in traffic, but it won't be fun... If you are looking for something fun around town that behaves in traffic I would limit duration to 230. Even small cams can make power. Mine is only 224/230 and puts out over 500 hp with the exhaust dumps open and over 550 ft-lbs.

ImBatman

What cam are you running? Does it have a good lopey idle? :D

JoeC427

Quote:The only nice thing about aluminum heads (in my opinion) is the weight savings. If you compare two pairs of identical heads, the only difference being that one pair of heads is cast iron and the other pair is aluminum, the cast iron heads will outperform the aluminum ones.
:bs

LAvetteman

I am running GM aluminum heads as well, part# 14011077.

Don't aluminum heads disperse heat a little better as well????

zwede

I don't like lopey cams. I custom ordered mine with a 114 LSA and spent many hours fine tuning the EFI to make it idle very smoothly. If you want the chop-chop idle just get a cam with 108 LSA and it will shake your fillings out.

WA 2 FST

My car is about buttoned up with the AFR 305 CNC'd heads. Turns out the slightly raised port (AFR says .300") did not cause a problem with my Hooker side-mounts. Jim convinced me to go with them no matter if it took some _clearancing_ of the exhaust or not. I went with a milder hyd. roller than most might go with (230/230). We'll see how it performs on the dyno. I'm expecting ~420rwhp which is easily 500hp at the crank, with a shift point ~6200rpm.

We'll see. It's almost done and ready to drive.

Corey_68

I believe what Shane meant by his statement was that the iron heads retain more heat and helps with combustion. Chevy found this out with the ZL1 motors. The aluminum blocks of the ZL1 actually made about 50hp LESS than the iron block L88. Up to a certain piont a warm engine is more efficent than a cooler engine.

:cheers:

Corey_68

:yesnod: That is another advantage, thus the ability to run a higher compression ratio.

ImBatman

Do you have a link to the AFR 305 heads? Also, I know what CNC is butI am not following what you guys are saying. Are you saying that the heads come as a block of aluminum and are then cut with the CNC? Or are they complete heads that are put in a CNC and then what is done? :confused:

Thanks
Wade

ImBatman

Just went and looked at the AFR website and OH MY GOD!!! :eek: Those are wayyyyyy out of my price range. :smash: I still am leaning more toward the aluminums and am about 90% sure that is the way I will go. I like the setup that 1970Stingray has and I have been trying to loosely follow his setup although I am going to go with a little cheaper piston. Would still like to know what the advantages of CNC heads are though.

Thanks
Wade