The surgery is done and I believe a success! Hardly a scratch to my floor pan from the blade. I had bought two packs of blades, 6" and 9". I ended up needing one about 7.5" for the final cut. Of course the stores are now closed. Thankfully Bubba happened to stop by and helped me cut a 9" blade done to size with the Sawzall. Perfect. For marking the cut, I used red duct tape on both sides of the line I scribed across the bottom of the crossmember. The tape wrapped up the sides and over the top and stayed very square. I suppose one could use a different color, but the red fit the mood for the occasion.
Once I get the engine and trans out, I will fabricate the saddle for re-installation. I intend to use a length of thick sidewall pipe (slightly larger inside diameter of the bolt used to secure the bracket) inside each outboard portion of the crossmember so that I won't crush the crossmember when I torque up the bolts securing the center section. I think Chevy uses this same idea within the frame where the steering box bolts up.
Thanks to everyone for your great help, pictures, suggestions, and most of all - encouragement! More pictures will follow as my work continues.
OH NO, this car WAS expecting it, but I did not know what to expect upon doing the cut, things like frame loading, maybe a rail twist due to being jacked but none of that happened, I still like the angle iron layed on top rear and drilled through with bolts, and a bottom flange also....making the center slide to the rear for removal...it does not leave the bolts alone to hold any twist or weight loading, but acts to keep the loading off the bolts....but of course it can only be welded on the rear section, anything in front needs be bolted , obviously...
Crossmember is Out!
