Headlight vacuum leak

WPEDirect · 07-04-2003, 12:09 AM

OK, I think I have it narrowed down. There is a small line that runs from the firewall area to the front (in front of the hood when open). It then T's out to the two valves (?). I can hear a hiss in this area when the vehicle is running. If I remove the line from the firewall area, and 'bubba seal' (hold it reeel tight) againt the actuator vacuum fitting, the headlight moves down vverryy sslloowwllyy (plus, the hissing is gone). The lines from the valves run into a 'tank' that spans the width of the car in the front. Is this a vacuum reservoir? Is it necessary? Can I bypass it? I'm pretty sure that this is what is leaking. Thnks!

feb18blacksunday · 07-04-2003, 12:41 AM

WPED zip products makes a kit to replace all your vacuum lines and they are color coded. :thumbs:

WPEDirect · 07-04-2003, 12:56 AM

I'm fairly certain that the lines are not leaking. I think it's the reservoir, but I need to know if that 3-4" diameter tube under the bumper that the vacuum lines run into is the reservoir, and if so... can it be bypassed? Thanks!

[Modified by WPEDirect, 10:56 PM 7/3/2003]

Kevin_73 · 07-04-2003, 01:20 AM

Quote:

I'm fairly certain that the lines are not leaking. I think it's the reservoir, but I need to know if that 3-4" diameter tube under the bumper that the vacuum lines run into is the reservoir, and if so... can it be bypassed? Thanks!

Yes that tube is the reservoir tank, it is also part of the front subframe.
I would only bypass the tank temporarily as a means to eliminate any other leaks, without the tank in place the vacuum to your headlights could fluxuate with changes in manifold vacuum. If there are other problems (leaks) in the system this fluxuation could cause your headlights to move when you would rather that they didn't.
I would recommend locating the leaks in the reservior tank and sealing them.
To find the leaks in the tank I would disconnect and plug the hose fittings that go to the headlight relays, then disconnect the vacuum from the engine and pressurize the tank at that fitting. You should only need around 10psi, then you can spray soapy water onto the tank to find the leaks.

Trevelisek · 07-04-2003, 01:30 AM

That is the reservoir tank.
I don't know if it could be bypassed, but when my headlights would not go up at all, I would disconnect the vacuum hoses from the top of the tank (the ones leading to the filters that branch into the actuator hoses), then raise the headlights by hand. With these hoses disconnected, the headlights would stay up.

You could TRY disconnecting these hoses just from the tank end, then plugging them with a hose cap, or even a proper size bolt....Just something to try as an experiment. I can't remember offhand if the vacuum comes FROM the tank to the hose, or vice-versa. But if it is coming from the hose, capping the line may improve the headlight actuation if the leak is actually in the reservoir...

Just something to try....

If anyone out there feels that this is B/S, please feel free to call me on it; I am just offering a suggestion.

jonny4523 · 07-04-2003, 02:37 AM

This is ironic because I am at this VERY EXACT SPOT!!! I might as well try to learn something from this post as well since I think WPEdirect and I are asking the same questions.

Quote:

I would recommend locating the leaks in the reservior tank and sealing them. To find the leaks in the tank I would disconnect and plug the hose fittings that go to the headlight relays, then disconnect the vacuum from the engine and pressurize the tank at that fitting. You should only need around 10psi, then you can spray soapy water onto the tank to find the leaks.

I have a few questions about this statement. What do you use to pressurize the tank? And what would you recommend using to seal the leaks on the tank?

I know mine is leaking. My headlights werent working at all. When I turned the headlights on, very little vacuum was coming from the tank. but the supply hose had plenty. So I bypassed it for a test and the lights came up alot better. (I still am replacing the seals and boots as we speak.)

WPEDirect, I hope this is your question too, I didnt mean to barge in.

[Modified by jonny4523, 12:39 AM 7/4/2003]

Kevin_73 · 07-04-2003, 04:55 AM

Quote:

I have a few questions about this statement. What do you use to pressurize the tank? And what would you recommend using to seal the leaks on the tank?

Just run a hose from a compressor, preferably one with a regulator that you can turn the pressure down (you want to create bubbles not geisers).
You would probably have to make up an air line that will plug into the quick disconnect on one end and step down to the correct diameter for the tank fitting on the other. A similar adaptor could be made with a schreader (sp) valve and you could have someone else constantly pumping with a bicycle tire pump while you look for bubbles.
JB Weld would probably be the easiest way to seal the leaks, but if they are easy to get to you might be able to clean the area well and sweat some solder into the hole.

Kevin