Corey_68

I took a break from studying, I have a final tomorrow morning, and went to the shop. My dad and I stabbed the BB and 4spd (one complete unit). I added the brackets, pulley's, and asseccories. It's really coming together. It really looks impressive with the new suspension (red poly bushings) and fresh black frame and firewall. I'm ordering my intake and fuel pump this week, hope to have it fired up in a week or so.

:cheers:

bence13_33

Corey:
I know the feelings you are having right now all too well. You will love the sound when the big block roars to life! One recommendation though. I did not do this but with any future cam installations I will be sure to do it. For the cam break-in I would pull the inner springs out. Then after cam break-in put the inner springs back in. This will lessen the chance of a flat cam lobe. Good luck. :cheers:

Jughead

Corey_68

Shane, I read on The Chevelle Forum where the guy reccommended this. Although I'm sure it helps, but I still question this procedure. I was always told by my father (old racer) and others to break the cam in as you would use it (in relation to the springs). What troubles me is that with one spring removed you would have more tension on one lobe than the other. I can't understand what benefit you would have to have slow the spring compression on one lobe? I know to reduce the chance of a flat spot, but this is the first I have ever heard doing of this?

Plus it's a lot of work to remove and re-torque those heads and valve train. I'm not sure if it's worth it. :confused:


[Modified by Corey 68, 5:10 PM 3/30/2003]

JoeC427

I just went to through a very difficult time. Just this month I fired up my new motor for the first time. I followed the breakin procedure by the book, but after less than one hour of running,(just in the driveway). I heard the dreded sound of valve train noise and sure enough two lobes were wiped. Going by the mfg. guidelines, I changed the oil and a friend who's adjusted hundreds of solid cams for the circle track racers set the lash according to the cam card specs compensating for a cold start vs. hot. Bla Bla Bla. No reason for failure. I spoke to several people including the manufacturer(I can't spell worth sheot) friends from my local speed shop ect. Some people say you should remove the inerds (springs) and some say its not a problem. All I can tell you is this: No moly lube on the bearings, use oil. Only moly lube the lobes and the dist. gear. Do not put moly lube on the sides of the lifters, only the at the base wear it rides on the lobe. 20 minutes at 2000 and change the oil. After pulling my motor to have piece of mind that no metal hit a bearing it's back in. I did change to a different company's cam this time but the breakin went well and it sounds like a beast.
Good luck

LAvetteman

:cool: Keep us posted.

GrandSportC3

:withstupid:

bence13_33

Corey:
I broke the 294S cam in as follows. I set the lash cold to .022" (I know it is supposed to be at .022" hot, but I set it to .022" cold). I used assembly lube on everything, it's this red gel stuff that my machine shop gave me. I used it on all bearing surfaces, smeared it all over the cam lobes and and cam bearings and also all over the lifters. I did not take the inner spring out. I was having problems getting my motor to fire (turns out I had my fuel lines wrong on the fuel pump) so after repeated attempts it finally fired. I discovered a very big oil leak so I had to shut it down (you're not supposed to but I had to). Turns out the threads were goofed in one of the plugs in my block. The next day I fired it up and revved the motor to 2500RPMs. I made sure to vary the RPMs from about 2000 all the way to 3500RPMs for 30 minutes. My cam break in was a total succes even after all the troubles and the cam is still holding up strong.

Make sure that once the cam break-in is over you shut your motor down and re-adjust the valves. Mine were way out of whack, some read .026" or so. The fun part was the burning paint. The paint on my side pipes and motor had to bake itself on...man did that hurt the eyes worse than anything you could imagine :D . Of course you want to keep a close eye on your oil pressure and temperature.

Corey_68

Thanks for the input, I'll keep that in mind. I can't wait to fire it up. :D

Thanks again for the info on the intake. :cheers:

1Bad69

:thumbs:

Brettmc

AWRIIIIIGHT!!!!

Brett :thumbs:

norvalwilhelm

Plus it's a lot of work to remove and re-torque those heads and valve train. I'm not sure if it's worth it.


Corey you do not have to pull the head to change valve springs. I find that changing them on the motor is easier then on the bench. I use air in the cylinder and I have a spring compresser that goes over the rocker arm stud. It is a very simple proceedure to change springs on the motor.
Also if you remove the inner springs all the lobes are seeing the same lower pressure.
I have read alot about breaking cams in with just one set of springs. It just takes the ambition to do it.
I read that NASCAR cams and lifters are broken in on a test jig where a dummy block run by an electric motor is used to break in the cam and lifters before they are ever installed in the motor.

Bob Turner

Bence,

Here is an OLD posting debating whether or not I should pull the inner springs out on my Comp hydraulic XE274. I ended up NOT pulling them out and have had good results with the cam. If the cam does go flat for some reason, I will go roller to fix this problem.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=224981


Bob :cool:

69 N.O.X. RATT

From the reading I have doen it all depends on how radical the cam is. I have only run one non roller and it was in the .550 lift range and I had no problems with just slapping it all together and running it with the break in procedure Bence used.

I read a post over on the Chevelle web site about a class racing motor that must use a solid flat tappet for the class it runs in. The cam had .780 lift on a 120 lobe center. That is correct .780 lift on a flat tapet lifter. If I remember right it was a destroked 502, 4.5 bore and 3.125 stroke for a total of 398 inches. It made max power (800+ hp) north of 8000 rpms.

Like norval talked about regarding the NASCAR stuff on cams that radical it is very hard to make them live in a flat tappet set up. If you try to run a flat tappet with .780 lift with the springs you plan to run the motor with on break in, it will probably wipe a lobe before it even fires.

Bob, if you followed proper procedures I am sure you will be fine. That is a pretty mild cam, after you get the 3.70's in there the cam will probably be next :lol:

Corey_68

Appreciate the info
:cheers:

Bob Turner

Right on. I remember you saying that cam is too mild!!! We'll see.

Bob :cool:

Metal Wulf

:thumbs:

Desertdawg

Sounds Great Corey.

How did the finals go....A+ right??????

Corey_68

I'm not totally finished, I have another one Monday moring.

I made a B+ on the other one, when I should have made an "A". :banghead:

ORVette

Way to go Corey!! Want to buy a slightly used water pump?????
:lol: just kidding.