SanDiegoPaul

My left rear on the '76 is STILL doing clicking thing! I've replaced the U-Joints with solid crosses (all six). I have replaced the rear bearings. Checked the diff. Now what?

The clicking sound is JUST LIKE the famed noise that a U-joint makes as it is coming apart. Under load (takeoff) or going from reverse to drive, it will click. Also when I get on it I'll hear the clicking sound (left rear) as soon as I let off of it.

I'm wondering if I've got a cracked wheel? This morning I'm gonna swap the left side tires and try it again. I have no air loss from the ralley wheel but I really have run out of things to look for. Can improper bearing installation cause it? I had the rear bearings done by a local Vette Specialist but who knows?

Armstrong

There was a post awhile back and someone had found out that the e-brakes were the culprit. I'll try to look to see if i can find the post and you do the same. maybe between the 2 of us we can find it.

Matt Gruber

my 76 (in '79) had a worn out pinion snubber

SanDiegoPaul

Oh, man I'd LOVE it if it was that problem. (ebrake) The snubber is new. I just spent yet another hour under the car. Found that I could easily get a half-turn out of all the bolts and u-bolts holding the half shafts in. Also, when I pulled the left side trim ring off the ralley, it made a VERY familiar sound :smash: I fixed the clips so that both of the rears would fasten evenly and soundly (no pun intended:lol:)

Ah well, though after putting her back on the ground, the noise was still there. :seeya


[Modified by SanDiegoPaul, 10:11 AM 3/29/2003]

SanDiegoPaul

OK then I give up. Should I just drive the PI** out of it til it breaks??

I drove it hard today and then went out in it again a second time. About 40 miles after tightening up the half shafts. Noise is definitely still there but it has diminished. And these things are as tight as I dare make them.

The noise sure seems to be related to those half shafts because it is less now that they are a bit more snug. What are the torque specs on them? Must be high.

I've turned wrenches for a long time and am decent at guessing torque. Cannot get a torque wrench near the half shafts, but I imagine that the outer flanges are close to 100-125 FT. pounds and the inners (U-Bolts) are 50 to 75.

How does that sound? HELP! :flag

isosceles

I'd definetly check the e-brake springs. I found mine at the bottom of the inside of the rotor. I didn't hear clicking at high speed, rather a sqeak that was wheel-revolution timed at 20mph and under.

Armstrong

I can't find that post anywhere and am beginning to doubt myself but i'm sure it's here somewhere. I hope someone pipes up soon but i think it was some kinda clip in the brakes and they ground something off to keep em from doing it.
DUHHHHHHHHH.... Alot a help i am

turtlevette

Agreed, The emergency brake shoe retaining springs can contact the spindle where each wheel stud clips it on its way around. This happened on my car after i did a rear bearing rebuild. Just kept driving it and it eventually went away. Probably just ate away at the spring until it didn't touch anymore.

jim

gerry c

I have a '77 Chev Monza (bought new, V8-305) and had a whell crack on that after owning it 10 months. It made a "clicking" sound all the time when rotated. It was not an uncommon problem, I saw another one with a crack just like mine had right before I had found the source of my noise.

72GACRZR

This may not even be in the ballpark, but I see in you sig picture that you have ralley wheels. I had a front trim ring where one of the four clips came loose and caused a clicking noise that I could hear at different times. If you check the trim ring and it's loose at one, it might be the problem. :seeya

GTR1999

Are the joint flanges bent from installation ? maybe causing a binding sound during driving?
Gary

SanDiegoPaul

Are the joint flanges bent from installation

Good point. I wonder how to check it?

GTR1999

When I rebuilt the 1/2 shafts I found the original flange bent on my 69 and also on a spare set of used shafts I had. I use a piece of 5/8" steel with 4 holes drilled and tapped to hold the flange secure when working on them. I had one flange that looked fine and the joints moved very easy bolted to the plate. As soon as I loosened the bolts the flange would bind up. They should move free when you hold the 1/2 shaft in your hand. Maybe you would have room if you unbolted the flange from the spindle and moved the flange by hand. You can move the strut rod out for more room. Be sure to mark the strut rod position before you move anything to keep the original alignment position. With the 1/2 shaft disconnected spin the rotor to see if you can hear or feel anything binding up. You should just feel the pads dragging, the rotor should feel smooth.
Gary


[Modified by gtr1999, 2:26 PM 3/30/2003]

Paul L

Inboard wheel weights hitting the caliper?

SanDiegoPaul

Inboard wheel weights hitting the caliper?


Then it would be a rotational noise and also constant. This only is a problem when I either go from park to drive, or Reverse. Or when I get on it, I'll hear the noise when I get OFF of it. :conehead

Cali,68,L-79

Paul your problem sounded like mine and it turned out to be the right outer U-Joint. Remember our conversation. Hate to say it but whose assuming you didn't get a bad universal.

David

Frank75

This is another SWAG, but does the noise change if you push REAL HARD on the brake pedal before shifting out of park? My car makes a noise (with new snubber) but it's much, much less if I push hard on the brakes. I'm guessing it's something to do with the brake pads.

SanDiegoPaul

Nope it is not brake related.

Marv

Paul-
Here is another WAG. There was a pic with a thread here some time back showing that the u-joint bolt ends had begun to contact the casting ridges on the pumpkin case due to excessive yoke wear on the c-clip end. This condition was quite visible in the example but if it is just barely making contact it may be hard to see. Good luck.

Marv-

turtlevette

San Diego,

did you get a resolution on this?