stolemyname

As mentioned in a previous post, my Corvette lives in Oregon while I live in South Florida. If I'm going to bring it here, I MUST have working A/C.

About 5 years ago I had the A/C re-charged with R-12 (the Jiffy Lube worker called it liquid gold because of the $$$). It worked great for the next few months, then was not used until the following summer when the A/C again needed charged. Obviously there is a slow leak, or at least it was slow 5+ years ago.

I've seen cheap-o "retrofit" kits that look like they are just a collection of o-rings and fitting adapters which I guess lets you keep all your original equipment. I tried doing some searching on the site, but could only find a handful of posts in the archives that specifically mentioned r134a. I guess the search doesn't like "A/C".

I know I have a leak that I can't find without charging the system with something that includes a dye. I'm also wondering if simply changing out some o-rings and some fittings is really a good way to go or am I asking for more troubles and a crummy working A/C? As always, cost is a factor, if it wasn't I'd have my Corvette here already and just pay someone to fix the A/C.

I did find this site which I am going to look over: http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/zwed.../ac/acmain.htm

Someone also mentioned using a product from Duracool or some such name, but unless someone can convince me otherwise I think I'd prefer sticking with r134a simply because it is cheap and convenient once the system is converted. I'd definately go with Freeze12 or whatever it is that lets you run it in a completely unmodified R-12 system, but since I have a leak that needs fixed I should probably do it right.

Since everyone with a C3 has an A/C system more than 20 years old, I'm sure there is tons of info on this topic if only I knew where to look.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

page62

One idea: Take it to an A/C shop and pay them the $39 diagnostic fee. Let them tell you what's leaking and what needs to be fixed. The say, "gee, sorry I don't have the cash to do that much work right now." Then make the repairs yourself.

I'll guess that your compressor is shot. Can't be helped. The seals go bad from sitting. In fact, you should run your compressor (even in winter) once in a while to keep the seals good.

You're best bet will be to get the kit that includes the R134a-compatible compressor and the accumulator/drier or whatever it is. Check your catalogs.

jrzvette

One thing to consider is the cost of doing a conversion to 134a vs recharging the current system with r12. While 134a is a lot cheaper than r12, the cost of conversion may outweigh recharging with r12.

If you can find out where the leak is and it isn't too costly to fix i would suggest doing that and keeping it as r12. It may be less environmentally friendly than 134a, but then your C3 is less environmentally friendly than a new Honda... Which one would you rather have?

Gator81

Last summer, I had my '81 changed over from R12 to R134a. The local Goodyear shop (which happens to have a Corvette owner as the manager, and does more Corvette work than any other local shop) did the conversion.

They offered me 2 deals:
1) evacuate the R12, fix the leaks, add the correct oil, charge with 134a: $125. No guarantees.

2) as 1) above, except flush the entire system to remove all the old oil, and replace the dryer, and guarantee it will blow 40 degrees or colder for at least 12 months: $250.

I went with deal #2. However, they determined after doing all the work that it did not blow colder than about 55 degrees. That turned out to be because my hot water shutoff valve wasn't working. I replaced the valve. Still didn't work, because the valve was not getting the necessary vacuum from the AC/heater control mechanism. The shop wanted a lot of money to do that fix, so I decided to do it myself.

And that is where it sits today - I've got pretty good AC, but I still need to chase down that vacuum problem... or replace the stock-style hot water shutoff valve with a manual one.

Good luck with yours! :cheers:

Tom73

Before you jump into making changes, do some reading.

Check out these sites:
http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/snap/ref.../macssubs.html
http://www.delanet.com/~pparish/retrofit.htm
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/alternative/

Read through these and you will be better armed to tackle the job. :)

tom...

Larry B.

My stock 69 works great even on hot hunid summer days here in Orlando .. The system is stock but converted to R134a and I replaced the blower motor with a current GM replacement which gave it some extra airflow. All I did was replace the oil with ester oil and charge with R134a. (3 years ago)

78Vette-SA

That's what I did and that's what it cost. No regrets. Works fine. :smash:

princeRed72

May I add my 2cents. I changed my system over to R134a. I have a 72 Convertible and with the help of Zwede info from his website and emails it worked out.

You do not need to change out the compressor unless it is leaking oil, etc. You do need to change the reciever/ dryer. Some shops say replace all the
o-rings. I did because I had to replace a hose. Zwede suggests adjusting the POA Valve to allow for the use of R134a.

I agree with the above post. Take it to a reputible shop to let them pin point where the leak is, if it exists. Of course with it sitting for 5 years the seals and rings could have dried out and not being used it could have just leaked out slowly.

Larry B.

Sorry, I forgot to mention the drier does need to be replaced.

zwede

Plenty of good info above. I take it you have an 81 and threfore the CCOT system.

For a low buck conversion, replace the accumulator (mandatory), install a "smart VOV valve" (highly recommended but not mandatory), and use one of the conversion kits.

I converted a 83 Caddy (CCOT system) with one of the kits. I didn't install the smart VOV and it blows in the low 50's. After 2 years it still hasn't leaked.

stolemyname

Thanks for all the great info. I had always just figured it would cost close to $1,000 to get it fixed/converted. But if I really can take it to a shop and have it done for me for $125 or even $250 and guaranteed to work then that's great news.

Remember, my vette is 3,500 miles away and I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I commit to shipping it here. Part of my hesitation is I expect to move back closer to the west coast in another year or two and shipping alone is well over a grand. Hmm... If I can get the A/C fixed for FAR less than I originally thought.. Look for my next post on shipping a vette cross country!

Larry B.

ANYWHERE should do a conversion for $100-!25. If not Run.... Don't walk away from them.

Cali,68,L-79

I converted for $160. Been a year and still puts out :cool: :cool: air.

70ZZ3 96LT4

I am still running R12 in my 70, nothing like R12 for cold air. My 85 has the R12 and its air conditioner is more efficient than my 96 LT4 with the 134 stuff. Anyway if you want to read about changing over you can go to this web site and read and decide what you want to do. http://www.id-usa.com.

shoptek

stolemyname,

I don't know what part of Fla you are in but I can give you the names of a few reputable shops to deal with in the N. Dade and So or Central Broward if you need them. feel free to either e mail me or IM me
:cheers:

stolemyname

I'm sorry but "N. Dade" and "reputable shops" do not belong in the same sentence. Even Broward is pretty bad from my experiences. After the problems I've had with "reputable shops" I don't even trust the mechanics around here to change the oil in my cars. Separate shops screwed up changing the oil in my wifes Minivan and in my Grand Cherokee. When I complained they put too much oil in my Jeep they re-did it and made the same mistake, then told me I must have the wrong dip-stick... My wife's Minivan was only about half full!?!? Good thing I double check all the work I can. A small example of the MANY problems I've had with shops around here.

However, there are still some things that I'd rather pay someone to do than try to do myself, including the hassle of working on the A/C system for anything beyond simple re-charges.

I live in Pembroke Pines, about as far west as you can get. If you want to give me the names of a place or two you consider good then let me know. Not sure if you meant Corvette specific shops, or A/C places.. The A/C in my Wrangler is leaking so if I can't fix that with a can or two of A/C stop-leak and can't find where it's leaking then I'll need an A/C shop for the jeep as well.

plbart3

I would have to click "all of the above" if this were a test. If it's a "let me get my car from Oregon to Florida while budgeting the real important things" like new u-joints, then I can add the following:

The R-12 compressor will compress 134a. It's just a pump, and as long as it's pumping you will have AC. The cheap kits have new O rings (and how is that a bad idea on a 20 year old system) and Schrader valves to accept the 134a charge. BUT: is it possible to put leaded fuel down the spout of an unleaded fuel only fuel fill? We have things called ADAPTORS wherewhich we can fill a system with 134a (also called ammonia) that was designed for R12 (also called Freon) The newer oils are nice, but this is not rocket science....

Until you want 45F in your face instead of 55F. In the 60's and 70's 55F was considered acceptable. Like horsepower, you pay for every degree. I'm taking my '81 to Phoenix this summer. I am lucky enough to still have the factory R-12 (last time I looked) I am going to insulate the passenger compartment, double shield the converter...and what the hell, take the tops off.

In Florida you have the humidity problem, so upgrades to the separator and accumulator, and a "smart" switch are good ideas. Cardboard inserts in the T tops is another good idea. In all seriousness, if you punt and just replace the Freon with ammonia, the system will work. You will notice that it does not put out at red lights. On the open road you might be comfortable in a suit and tie. It is all a question of bucks, just like the old horsepower equation. Car + $ squared = hp increase.

plbart3

Oh, and like Sivervetteman said a couple of posts above, I could blow out your R-12 (and make money if there was any R-12 to recover) and pump it full of 134a with a can of new oil for $10 bucks. You might talk to any HVAC guy you know. I converted a Mercedes 380 to 134 for $25 and it worked great. (Too bad about the Bosch injection system)

zwede

Like plbart3 said: any conversion will get you 55F out the vents. If you want lower you need to put more time into the conversion. When I did mine I also flushed all the old oil and dirt out, replaced expansion and POA valve, cleaned condensor, re-sealed underdash ducts and adjusted POA valve for R134a. This made a big difference and I'm actually getting 42F out the vents, which is better than the service manual lists for R12!