supercab78

I am looking to get a low profile or any air filter that will fit under an L88 style hood. The engine is a 350 with a Victior Jr intake and a 1-inch spacer. Carb is a Holley 750 double pumper. I hate to order something that may not fit, so I thought I'd ask first. Thanks Side note: I am currently using a 45-year-old one, but I can't find a filter element that is 8.75 x 2 inch. anymore.

sleepchamber

Are you using a drop base for the air cleaner? I am running a Holley on an edelbrock performer intake with a standard hood. I purchased the factory drop base for a big block and was able to massage the metal in a couple of spots to fit over the Holley.

Eric P

If your carb has the choke housing you have to watch the clearance between choke housing of the carburetor and air cleaner lid or you will choke it out without the choke on

gkull

I Use a 2x14 K&N open element with the filter top. It give you more square inches than a typical 3X14 open.

I would question the VJ and a one inch spacer. what kind of max rpm do you do? To increase the signal to booster the best thing to use is the thermal wood 1/2 inch 4 hole spacer. Running the carb with just a gasket the carb used to boil the gas in the bowls when you stopped. The best carb boosters are annular. I have the second best down leg boosters. I had a racing carb shop bench flow and dyno setup up my carb and intake on a dyno test mule engine.

Motown single plane and 1/2 inch wood below a measured 830 cfm Race Demon carb.

Tech141

That is a sweet setup.

I've got some vacuum port plugs I can send if ya need'em.

gkull

Thanks, That was just installing my then new altered firing order 427 SBC clear back when I had a racing 700R4 3800 stall 9.5 inch. I use full vac port to the vacuum advance and cap the partial.

supercab78

It is a road course car. The RPM's run from 3500 to 5500 down the straight way. I have considered removing the spacer.

supercab78

sleepchamber; It is not a drop base. The carb does have a manual choke which is occasionally used.

MelWff

how about the LT1 type drop base using a 14x3 filter. I have an RPM Air Gap, 1/2" spacer, 14x4 filter, L88 hood.

gkull

My question should have been also what kind of heads and cam do you have? IMO 750 cfm is a bit big for 350 of such low rpm. The least expensive improvent with what you have would be to buy annular boosters which will also cut down the total cfm and get a 4 hole wood spacer to increase the booster signal on a single plane. TQ is everything on a road course where you might only be using 3 gears once you are running around the track.

supercab78

This is not my build; I bought the car with this set up. With it I got two bad ZZ4 engines. I was able to get one good engine out of the two. I had the crank turned, rods resized, and the assembly balanced. The heads are Trick Flow super 23 -195. Cam is full roller with 555 lift , intake duration is 308, exhaust is 316. Hooker headers and side pipes. I realize the cam is likely too big for this application, but it came with the engine. The car is just used for HPDE not real competition just for fun.

gkull

If you are doing the SCCA HPDE you just have to jump through their hoops to get into class type time trials and or get the competition Lic.

Your vacuum at idle and idle quality must be pretty radical with 308/316 and 350 ci. Your biggest gain would be to get rid of the 1 inch spacer and install a 4 hole wood spacer and annular boosters in the carb. The second more expensive step would be to pull out the H-roller lifters and buy solid roller lifters and matching spring set and make it a 6500 or 7000 red line

supercab78

Yes, it is radical, thank goodness I have manual brakes and vacuum timing advance is not hooked up. I do have the distributor set up for a total of 36 degree, I think it's 22 initial and 12 centrical. Does that sound reasonable? If I change the spacer, I think I have a different air filter that would fit.

gkull

I use vacuum advance of 8 -10 degrees. 22 + 12 is great for sea level aftermarket fast burn type chamber aluminum heads.

MelWff

again, recommend the 70 to 72 LT1 air cleaner assembly

Barry's70LT1

This is a '70 LT-1 air cleaner base.

MelWff

Yes, I know what it looks like. Hopefully the original poster will look.

supercab78

I see it! I know what I need now, thanks everybody. Jeff