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I'm in the process of installing true-duals on a 1976 L82 Stingray and have run into problems. My existing two-into-one-into-two exhaust system had heat shields under the passenger floorboard and the passenger side glove box behind the seat. With the installation of true-duals, it seems I need heat shields for the driver's side floorboard and battery box. But I can't find these heat shields for sale anywhere. So what are other folks doing in this regard?
Also, if anyone has a good tip for removing the Dutchman shown in the attached photo, I'm all ears.
DEI wrap. I did that to my headers and my exhaust system right under the leaf spring. I think the reason you had a heat shield under floor board before was because you had a catalytic converter and that would build up heat there.
DEI wrap. I did that to my headers and my exhaust system right under the leaf spring. I think the reason you had a heat shield under floor board before was because you had a catalytic converter and that would build up heat there.
Luckily you have a 1976, the first year for metal floorboards rather than fiberglass. This was done to reduce cabin temperatures from having a catalytic converter directly underneath the passenger. Like rmrtrex said, the additional heat shield was just for the catalytic converter itself. Unless your new true dual exhaust has two new catalytic converters (for some reason) I think you will be fine without a shield. As far as I know the earlier cars with the factory true dual exhausts didn’t have any additional heat shielding.
No shields needed as stated.
You will need to remove that exhaust manifold from the car and heat it cherry red with a torch.....back it out with a good pair of Vice Grips with good sharp teeth clamped hard.
Use brass nuts and the heatriser delete spacer from Corvette Central or others vendors......
I ran true 3" duels on my 78 when I did an LS Swap. I used adhesive backed aluminized fiberglass heatshield (not the expensive stuff) from amazon/ebay and put it on the floorboards outside of the car. Then on the inside ..050 Kilamat foil backed butyl and 2 layers of aftermarket insulation under a new carpet. Can't feel any heat in the car on a 2.5hr drive. I would recommend the adhesive foil/fiberglass insulation at minimum on the outside to keep the heat from even getting into the floor pan.
I ran true 3" duels on my 78 when I did an LS Swap. I used adhesive backed aluminized fiberglass heatshield (not the expensive stuff) from amazon/ebay and put it on the floorboards outside of the car. Then on the inside ..050 Kilamat foil backed butyl and 2 layers of aftermarket insulation under a new carpet. Can't feel any heat in the car on a 2.5hr drive. I would recommend the adhesive foil/fiberglass insulation at minimum on the outside to keep the heat from even getting into the floor pan.
If you are using the Factory exhaust manifolds then remove them and get them a nice Ceramic Coating applied by a professional. They can do them in the silver, Black or Grey colors and many more I am sure. When companies coat headers most of them (99%) coat the inside and the outside of the exhaust pipes or headers. If you had a good coating inside and out your under the hood temperatures should drop. All they do is clean off your parts and then they can coat them. I have had parts done before I bought the liquid and sprayed some parts and never came close to the finish they get on today's ceramic coatings.
I am a big believer in using the products that DEI makes. I use a Tube Insulation with bright reflective aluminum over the fuel lines from the tank forward. From 10' backwards of the throttle body fuel connections forward fuel line up to my throttle body has the DEI Insulation and a Purple Fire Sleeve for extra protection. Since I have a in-tank fuel pump with no return line it is simpler. I have tried to follow the original frame lines with the new lines but go over the bell housing instead of going up to the front of the engine. Going in from the rear of the engine keeps my gasoline even cooler. What benefit is there to running the fuel lines up behind the radiator into the fuel pump and then up to the carburetor? Using metal lines is safer but they pre-heat the gasoline up behind the radiator. Then when you use rubber fuel lines you risk a belt breaking and causing a fire by cutting through the rubber lines. I have a good bell housing that has the scatter shield in it so I am hoping that my clutch never leaves the car.
DEI insulation is used on my heater hoses and other places. I love the products that DEI folks make, they are all over inside my Corvette. Sealing the engine compartment so that the air gets through the radiator and out under the car. I have an excess of heat and I can deal with it more effectively with a Good Insulation products like those made by DEI!
If that ring (circular) bell housing insulation collar is "missing" then you might get a steady stream of Warm/Hot air into the car depending on what your firewall and grommets look like. It can make the interior even Hotter than it normally should be. My 1968 has a nice fiberglass floor and only in heavy traffic would I feel any heat from the floorboards. My BB feeds into Long tube headers and then into a 3"+ Chambered Exhaust system and has nothing connection the exhaust systems from each other. The Chambered Pipes sure sound good as you can hear the specific cylinders popping away..
04-16-2024, 05:38 PM
Heat Shields for True-duals on 1976 L82
