When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been watching youtube and it seems the 60-130 is becoming a big thing????... I have never done it, but I think im going to give it a "run" this week:-)
have 60-130 times? post em... "on a track of course"
I guess that I need to get one of these. I think that your motor might beat me because the the last rebuild I toned down my 434 with 4 degrees of cam advance and went to 1,6 intake and 1,5 exhaust to make the heads guides last longer.
The later c3 corvettes with the pace car spoilers and a slight rake have a pretty good advantage over earlier cars. I. Think the 80 to 82 cars are pretty good.
I guess that I need to get one of these. I think that your motor might beat me because the the last rebuild I toned down my 434 with 4 degrees of cam advance and went to 1,6 intake and 1,5 exhaust to make the heads guides last longer.
Hey George... you got a pretty strong setup... it should be warmer next week, if it gets above 70 ill bring her out and see how she does.. ill record it and post it here.
Originally Posted by DblTrbl
Some engine management setups can log MPH and time, but your speedo needs to be accurate.
I've also heard that the fragy is pretty close.
Be interesting to see what C3s can do. A big factor near the top of 130 is aerodynamics.
i did not think about that... i have the comp-cams XFI Sportsman EFI with throttle body which has speedo hookup which ive been wanting to do... The electronics behind my dash are all replaced with digital but stock faceplate. so i already have a sending unit for the EFI, just need to tap into it.
this is a better "race" for me vs 1/4 mile, less drive train hits, and without slicks I cant hold her down (lock up the tires) in first or second gear anyway..... and sometimes first part of 3rd...
The later c3 corvettes with the pace car spoilers and a slight rake have a pretty good advantage over earlier cars. I. Think the 80 to 82 cars are pretty good.
unless modded... no.
most all these C3's are gutless wonders stock.. the 80-82 weighs slightly less then 79<...
a fast C3 does not start until 400+hp at the rear wheels, and near or less than 3,000 lbs... which means lots of mods...
mine weighs in at 2993 last scale weigh, and about 540ish at the rear wheels, and a nice flat power band starting around 2-2.5K rpm up to 6500-7K rpm..
Well, I have a dragy and know what my car does in the 1/4 now with my new tune and they are really accurate compared to the track times. 11s here I come with CFI. Also, had a friend in a C6 pull up on me at 160 and I shut mine down, much too fast in a 82 for my liking even though the tires were brand new. I do not know what my 60-130 time is and it's no big deal to me. I can also use the EBL What's Up Display to track things like that as well. They say that past 130 in a C3 is sketchy, but mine hugged the road very nice and was stable, but just didn't like that speed in a 42 year old car, but according to my speedo, I was only going 85mph.
Even with the Very slight aerodynamic advantage of the (81,82) the torque of an L88 is still going to Push an earlier Corvette to a better time. Being a Private Pilot I kept my Cessna at a local airport with a 2800' runway. The airport only handles small private aircraft and is not that busy during the weekdays. I finally got brave enough to back the Corvette up to the very beginning of the runway and after a couple seconds I just let it go wide open, the speed went up to above 115 mph where the C3 started lifting. I really enjoyed making a few passes without any attention. The airport sits in a valley and my car is not exactly quiet but the sound was awesome according to a airport Neighbor.
In the 2800' I was able to get to 125-135 mph and still have room to stop without heating the brakes up too much. This solved a lot of my fellow pilots who thought their airplane was fast on takeoff. Blowing by the airport office at 130+ mph was enough to stop the comments. At the time I was using Aviation fuel from the airport gas club which was like $1 more than car fuel for the 100 Octane Low Lead. I would pull up to the pump and fill up my tank and I used auto gas in my Cessna.
I installed a Pace Car Spoiler on the front and after re-enforcing it the part stayed on the car and it really helps above the 110 speed range on my C3. The spoiler was a nice trick but you would need to install steel braces to hold it in place. The aerodynamics of the C3 leave a bit to be desired. If I cranked the nuts on the rear spring (long bolts)that would push the rear up and make the car more aerodynamic at the cost of the half shaft u-joints. With the rear elevated on the C3 it becomes more aerodynamic but then a parking lot caused the demise of the chin spoiler.
Pauldana, my 1968 C3 with the L88 engine can go very fast IF I could only get some traction. How does one get traction when you are pushing over 500 hp to the rear wheels? My car will spin the tires until they pop and on occasion they will start to hop. I want to make the best run I possibly can with a minimum of breakage. I have a 3.36 rear and cannot get traction, why on earth would someone want a 4.11 rear?
I smoked a real 1969 L89 where he was running 4.11 rear and a M21 four speed and the three deuces. I was three car lengths ahead at the end of the track and that was after spinning my tires until the 1/8th mile mark. I was using the standard BF Goodrich 15" 255/60 tires and they left a lot of rubber on the rear fenders. I have upgraded the half-shafts and am using the best U-joints that are not grease-able. Why have all this power and not be able to get it to the street? I would love to hear your thoughts on how to get traction when you have lots of hp..
Dragys are the ****.. mine is very close the the time at the track. But if you spin on the street and not at the track your times will be off. I love the fact you can mount your phone to the windshield and take a video of the pass and get the dragy times on the video you take. With my phone, I can pair the dragy, open the app, hit the video button, and go. The video I posted is my sons high school daily driver.
Even with the Very slight aerodynamic advantage of the (81,82) the torque of an L88 is still going to Push an earlier Corvette to a better time. Being a Private Pilot I kept my Cessna at a local airport with a 2800' runway. The airport only handles small private aircraft and is not that busy during the weekdays. I finally got brave enough to back the Corvette up to the very beginning of the runway and after a couple seconds I just let it go wide open, the speed went up to above 115 mph where the C3 started lifting. I really enjoyed making a few passes without any attention. The airport sits in a valley and my car is not exactly quiet but the sound was awesome according to a airport Neighbor.
In the 2800' I was able to get to 125-135 mph and still have room to stop without heating the brakes up too much. This solved a lot of my fellow pilots who thought their airplane was fast on takeoff. Blowing by the airport office at 130+ mph was enough to stop the comments. At the time I was using Aviation fuel from the airport gas club which was like $1 more than car fuel for the 100 Octane Low Lead. I would pull up to the pump and fill up my tank and I used auto gas in my Cessna.
I installed a Pace Car Spoiler on the front and after re-enforcing it the part stayed on the car and it really helps above the 110 speed range on my C3. The spoiler was a nice trick but you would need to install steel braces to hold it in place. The aerodynamics of the C3 leave a bit to be desired. If I cranked the nuts on the rear spring (long bolts)that would push the rear up and make the car more aerodynamic at the cost of the half shaft u-joints. With the rear elevated on the C3 it becomes more aerodynamic but then a parking lot caused the demise of the chin spoiler.
Pauldana, my 1968 C3 with the L88 engine can go very fast IF I could only get some traction. How does one get traction when you are pushing over 500 hp to the rear wheels? My car will spin the tires until they pop and on occasion they will start to hop. I want to make the best run I possibly can with a minimum of breakage. I have a 3.36 rear and cannot get traction, why on earth would someone want a 4.11 rear?
I smoked a real 1969 L89 where he was running 4.11 rear and a M21 four speed and the three deuces. I was three car lengths ahead at the end of the track and that was after spinning my tires until the 1/8th mile mark. I was using the standard BF Goodrich 15" 255/60 tires and they left a lot of rubber on the rear fenders. I have upgraded the half-shafts and am using the best U-joints that are not grease-able. Why have all this power and not be able to get it to the street? I would love to hear your thoughts on how to get traction when you have lots of hp..
Best Regards,
Chris
Bigger tires, softer rubber, slicks...
BUT.. then you need a better/stronger rear end, Transmission and everything in between.... 6K for rear end, 4-5k transmission clutch...
last year I had a Dodge Demon come up on me... I usually smoke em so bad that the first time the dont believe it, and come back for a second humiliation:-) ... Anyway, one was comming up, im at about 60mph, clutch in revs up waiting for the hit... Drop the clutch and RRRRRRRRRR!!!! engine revs, thansmission shifts, clutch works, no popping in the rear end, but no power to the rear wheels... twist snapped BOTH Axle spindles.
And you can run 285-295 size tires in the rear with offset trailing arms... for better traction
unless modded... no.
most all these C3's are gutless wonders stock.. the 80-82 weighs slightly less then 79<...
a fast C3 does not start until 400+hp at the rear wheels, and near or less than 3,000 lbs... which means lots of mods...
mine weighs in at 2993 last scale weigh, and about 540ish at the rear wheels, and a nice flat power band starting around 2-2.5K rpm up to 6500-7K rpm..
Why have all this power and not be able to get it to the street? I would love to hear your thoughts on how to get traction when you have lots of hp..
Best Regards,
Chris.
You just have to put some thought into it. My rear tires are 345 width on 18x13 wheels. It took getting rid of the automatic transmission and going to a 5 speed manual to get traction. Wheel hop was a problem until I figured out how to solid mount the differential.
Years of going to Bonneville Salt flats tought me what it took to exceed 300 mph in cars so it wasn't a problem driving a 1979 to over 207 mph average for a whole mile between timing lights.
I built my original 396 sbc to exceed 900 hp on n2o before I got the reality check of what it would cost to install an IRS Ford 9 inch rear end because I was breaking the posi housing cases.
Being an early Big Block Corvette I have the heavier duty parts they used on the 427 Cars. Having a 3.36 the folks at Comp Cams gave me a hard time about my cam choice. Can someone explain why a 4.11 is desired over a 3.36 rear end? I spin my tires furiously with a 3.36, with a 4.11 I would not go anywhere fast. If I start slow and then get on it 110% the car can turn sub 4 second 0-60's. That is shifting my 427 at ~5500 rpm. The cam I am using will rev past 7k but the torque drops off at an earlier point. The rotating assembly was balanced to 7 k just in case. I have a GTECH-Pro which is an older version. The Gtech works well if you enter the true weight of your car and then just drive. It has built in Shift lights that uses the actual torque curve to determine when to shift. It seems to really help with 1/4 miles. Whenever I make any changes I can drive the car and the Gtech would provide proof of any improvements.
I am not sure I will put offset trailing arms as I spent a bunch of $ having Van Steel rebuild both the original trailing arms. I have the cast iron differential case and I had the differential rebuilt as those posi clutches were chirping in corners. How involved and what are the ride effects of solid mounting the differential? I have a Poly mount on it right now.
After adding the Snow Performance Water/Ethanol Injection System I need to see if there is any gain using it just for making more power. They originally sold the kits for turbo/supercharger applications, then I show up with a 12.25-1 compression L88. The folks there said that Turbo guys gain 20% or more power when injecting the fluid. I only use the Water/Ethanol when it is really hot outdoors or my engine is getting above 230*. Between the water cooling down the combustion chamber and drawing out the heat and the Methanol boosts the octane rating of the gasoline up to 116 octane. It can and does cool down my engine before shut down. I have found windshield washer fluid in this area tends to favor the 40% methanol and 60% water. If I look in colder areas they have 50/50 water/methanol. They suggest that you use no more than the 50/50 as alcohol flames burn clear so to prevent any issues I stick with the 50/50 or the Boost Juice which is a more expensive to use. I have 2 cases of Boost juice in my garage and cases of generic windshield washer fluid. I have a 1/2 gallon reservoir and that works fine for me. The pump and controller are right behind the passengers seat after removing the jack.
My Holley EFI system will allow me to use Dry Nitrous as the system can handle the extra fueling during use. I was told that Nitrous will not do much on a high compression engine. It might be fun to add a 50 hp shot and see what happens.... without blowing the heads off the engine.
Can someone explain why a 4.11 is desired over a 3.36 rear end? I spin my tires furiously with a 3.36, with a 4.11 I would not go anywhere fast.
Rear end ratio decision is based on lots of factors. In my case, chose 4.10 because that would max out the RPM in my car (6500) at the maximum MPH target that I planned for which around 130mph. If my target was 150 MPH, then I would choose a 3.36. To get the most out of the engine at the target MPH, you want the engine to be at the maximum HP RPM. Tire size plays into the calculation. I have a pretty tall tire with a very tall sidewall to maximize grip.
I've had my c3 up to 129 (1/4 mile) and did not feel any float. My nose is down a bit and the rear is up a bit which may help. My weight is 3745 which may help keep it down some.
60 to 130mph times? I just realized this was posted on April 1st so this must be an April fools thing, right?
Other than dedicated race cars, I doubt very many stock c3's can hit 130.
Some of the people I know are hesitant to even go 75-80 on the freeway because of the high rpm's.
Higher power cars need 600 foot pound rated or even higher which gets you into the 5 & 6 speed OD transmissions. Which makes sense to use 4.11, 4.30 rearend gearing and have top speeds of over 200 mph
Other than dedicated race cars, I doubt very many stock c3's can hit 130.
Some of the people I know are hesitant to even go 75-80 on the freeway because of the high rpm's.
Road & Track Magazine test drove a 1979 Corvette equipped with an L82 engine and recorded a 0-60 time of just 6.6 seconds, a standing quarter-mile time of 15.3 seconds at 95 mph, and a top speed of 127 mph.Feb 20, 2017
04-01-2024, 05:24 PM
60-130 mph times
