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Anyone ever us a ZIP products chrome brake booster/MC ? push rod problems
1976.
I bought a replacement booster and MC from zip products, and I may be having
a problem with the push rods they included.
See 1st picture.
The included a spacer that goes inside the throat of the master cylinder (black, 1.5" long)
The push rod that goes in the booster is 2.375 long. When I put my measuring tool on the MC,
flip it over to measure the booster, the push rod is a little more than .125" too long.
Zip also included a long push rod (chrome, 3.375" long), but if I leave out the black spacer from
the booster, the rod is too short by 0.375". None of the rods/spacers are adjustable.
Has anyone used the black spacer and shorter rod without the brakes catching?
Master and booster made by MBM (china), booster looks like original but push rod set-up different.
I asked ZIP, they don't have any techs, and suggested asking here
Second picture shows the black apacer partial installed, it goes all the way in flush to the
throat opening.
Who makes the booster and the master cylinder?
Zip just sells the parts.
Get Zip’s vendor name and call the manufacture.
They probably include all the push rods because you may use a different push rod for your application and someone else might need to use a different push rod.
Talk with the tech from the vendor.
Who makes the booster and the master cylinder?
Zip just sells the parts.
Get Zip’s vendor name and call the manufacture.
They probably include all the push rods because you may use a different push rod for your application and someone else might need to use a different push rod.
Talk with the tech from the vendor.
MBM (China).
Doubt that I'll find any, but I'll look.3.
Found an on-line site for them: This kit features a universal booster that has the short pin in the front of the booster. The new cylinder may have a piston adapter to convert it from deep to shallow hole. Install the piston adapter. Use a shallow pocket master cylinder on a power brake booster with the short pin.
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That's funny
I'll install it Friday, and see if my brakes drag.
As handsome as that combo is with the chrome, I think you may never get the booster rod gap right.
Delco has this imperative process down to a science. And they have for decades with tens of thousands of booster / mc in C3s flawlessly. Aftermarket? Not so much.
These Vettes are very picky about what brake parts work and which ones don't.
Anyway, you need around 0.060 gap at the rod / MC piston.
Good luck.
I know what I would do.
I would return that shiny garbage.
Then I would order a booster/master combo from Tuff Stuff. Made in USA.
I could always go with rebuilt Delco parts (and I just may), but I'm really looking to get the bright, shiny stuff in
I might look at Tuff Stuff before Delco.
I've already put (2) brand new NAPA MCs in it last year and this year, and both leaked air, but not fluid. (Puzzled by this, but they are Chinese too.)
How does a MC leak air? You mean the booster leaked air?
The first time a brand new part fails, I suspect the part.
But a second failure, suspect the installer.
Somethings not right here with your set-up.
It's hard beat good ol' Delco Remy brake parts such as booster, MC and calipers. They may not have the bling that aftermarket offers but at least the Delco stuff fitment is exact.
I couldn't even get a chrome master lid to fit right. A liitle too small here & there, bails were too long. Total garbage.
Use the combo that is .125” too long and just slowly trim (grind) the rod until it is just right. Chuck the rod in your drill and spin it while you grind. If you mess up and trim too much, you have the other long rod to try again.
I'm going to load up on gabbapetin tonight to fight off the stiff back I'll have tomorrow, after laying on
my back for over 3 hours getting the booster out, and the new one in. This is one job I don't ever want to do again.
Took the seat out, it helped somewhat, but holy crap, that top RH bolt is almost impossible, esspecially if you got a clutch.
All the clutch/safety linkages obstruct that bugger. Holy hell.
Got minimal brakes right now, I used the shorter pin for the push rod with the adapter in the Master. Doesn't appear to be draging.
but I still need to bleed the system to get the air out from when I reconnected the MC lines. I'll power bleed down thru the
Master tomorrow .
Old original booster.
Hopefully, this weekend I'll finish up, but weather doesn't look to cooperate (still winter in the mid-west).
Pedal is already better response then the old system but low (as usual), didn't go on the road with it.
I'm not sure what the problem is, but I suspect.
the Napa MC- but two of them?, and the original booster. All new calipers (pads and rotors too).I would get air in the brake system the more I drove the car.
No leaks whatsoever. Baffles the hell out of me. No fluid loss. In over 50 years, I've never seen this happen. 10 minutes
of continuous driving, and the brake pedal goes to the floor (no brakes). Re-bleed, and same thing. Drive
10 minutes, brake pedal goes to floor. Enormous amount of air in the lines. Brakes were bled at least 5 times, using 3 different methods. I even used a Mighty Vac gun on it.
I hope to have none of that next bleed. (Motive power bleeder, then a manual pumper assist as I bled each fitting , 8 total).
This car has fought me for 2 years now. Some days I wonder if it's a worthwhile effort for me. (The original purpose of this car is gone now).
Reading the OP's last post. About air getting into his system after 10 minutes of driving.
I have this to say about that.
Rotor runout.
OP says he changed his rotors. Did not discuss the manner in which he shimmed his rotors to achieve near zero runout.
Lip seal calipers will pull in air if "Pumped" by rotor runout.
New Bloody everything including a Chinese Brake booster won't fix runout!
It's a C2 - C3 Corvette thing. Lip seal calipers. They will seal one way. Not the other.
Hold fluid in while allowing air in from the other direction.
If this was my car I would have a dial indicator on each and every rotor long before I replaced a booster.
Reading the OP's last post. About air getting into his system after 10 minutes of driving.
I have this to say about that.
Rotor runout.
OP says he changed his rotors. Did not discuss the manner in which he shimmed his rotors to achieve near zero runout.
Lip seal calipers will pull in air if "Pumped" by rotor runout.
New Bloody everything including a Chinese Brake booster won't fix runout!
It's a C2 - C3 Corvette thing. Lip seal calipers. They will seal one way. Not the other.
Hold fluid in while allowing air in from the other direction.
If this was my car I would have a dial indicator on each and every rotor long before I replaced a booster.
I did have to shim one rotor (one stud on LF), the other 3 were all within .010" (did that last fall, I know I posted a thread about it).
But, it gives me hope that maybe I should redo this, as I've never had this phenomenon happen. Just weird to see all that
air in there without losing any fluid.
Perhaps others will chime in as well. But in my humble opinion.
.010 runout is WAY to much.
get them down to .003 Max.
If your running O ring calipers, you might get away with .010 . In my profession, anything over .008 is a warranty claim!
03-26-2024, 01:34 PM
Anyone ever us a ZIP products chrome brake booster/MC ? push rod problems
