New ping
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
New ping
Late last summer my car ('79, 427 small block, TKO 600) started pinging at part throttle around 2000-2200 rpm. My differential diagnosis includes ignition timing, stuck power valve, and bad gas. Alcohol free premium is getting hard to get in Canada and I suspect the station where I have been buying my gas may have started adding ethanol.
I checked my timing today. Here is what I got. It is unchanged from what I charted last year so I'm thinking it's not timing. I'd appreciate any input.
I checked my timing today. Here is what I got. It is unchanged from what I charted last year so I'm thinking it's not timing. I'd appreciate any input.
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
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You don't need Ethanol free. In fact, Ethanol increases octane. So thats not your issue.
Ethanol Free is a "storage" fuel for long term parking of carbureted engines.
You have something else going on.
Check the plug wire routing of # 5 and # 7. Make sure that from the cap, all the way to the plugs, those two are well separated.
Use your wire looms to keep them on opposite sides of the loom.
Your pinging may be Cross-Fire-Induction. Number 7 may be firing before 5.
Ethanol Free is a "storage" fuel for long term parking of carbureted engines.
You have something else going on.
Check the plug wire routing of # 5 and # 7. Make sure that from the cap, all the way to the plugs, those two are well separated.
Use your wire looms to keep them on opposite sides of the loom.
Your pinging may be Cross-Fire-Induction. Number 7 may be firing before 5.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You don't need Ethanol free. In fact, Ethanol increases octane. So thats not your issue.
Ethanol Free is a "storage" fuel for long term parking of carbureted engines.
You have something else going on.
Check the plug wire routing of # 5 and # 7. Make sure that from the cap, all the way to the plugs, those two are well separated.
Use your wire looms to keep them on opposite sides of the loom.
Your pinging may be Cross-Fire-Induction. Number 7 may be firing before 5.
Ethanol Free is a "storage" fuel for long term parking of carbureted engines.
You have something else going on.
Check the plug wire routing of # 5 and # 7. Make sure that from the cap, all the way to the plugs, those two are well separated.
Use your wire looms to keep them on opposite sides of the loom.
Your pinging may be Cross-Fire-Induction. Number 7 may be firing before 5.
#8
Le Mans Master
If you suspect alcohol in the fuel you can test it. Just put a little water in a see through tube/jar and mark the water level. Add gasoline. If the water rises above the mark then there is ethanol in the fuel since ethanol will readily mix with water. If it doesn't rise then it's pure gasoline.
#9
Dr. Detroit
Member Since: Mar 2012
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If it is pinging at part throttle.....it is most likely the vac cannister.....unplug the cannister and go for a ride.....does it stop?
Ethanol has zero to do with it......
Jebby
Ethanol has zero to do with it......
Jebby
#10
Le Mans Master
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drwet,
If you have a std vacuum gauge it likely came with about two feet of hose.
You can go to a parts store and purchase about six feet of that hose. Find a Vac port you can tap into.
Run that extra long hose into the cockpit thru an open window. You can leave the hood unlatched, won't hurt a thing.
Go for a ride. Notebook and pen.
Note different RPM ranges and jot down your vacuum reading.
What you don't know yet is where your Power Valve is opening (or should open). You might be running lean until the P.V. kicks in.
What number is stamped the P.V?
If you have a std vacuum gauge it likely came with about two feet of hose.
You can go to a parts store and purchase about six feet of that hose. Find a Vac port you can tap into.
Run that extra long hose into the cockpit thru an open window. You can leave the hood unlatched, won't hurt a thing.
Go for a ride. Notebook and pen.
Note different RPM ranges and jot down your vacuum reading.
What you don't know yet is where your Power Valve is opening (or should open). You might be running lean until the P.V. kicks in.
What number is stamped the P.V?
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try that last Fall just before I put the car away. It did not solve the problem, and on the same ride I developed another problem that took priority so I didn't get a chance to chase it further. I may repeat the experiment in the Spring. This time, if disconnecting the vacuum canister doesn't help, I'll start backing off the timing until the pinging stops. I have to admit though, I was getting the distinct impression that it was not related to ignition timing. I would have expected some change in response to disabling the vacuum advance, and there was exactly zero.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
drwet,
If you have a std vacuum gauge it likely came with about two feet of hose.
You can go to a parts store and purchase about six feet of that hose. Find a Vac port you can tap into.
Run that extra long hose into the cockpit thru an open window. You can leave the hood unlatched, won't hurt a thing.
Go for a ride. Notebook and pen.
Note different RPM ranges and jot down your vacuum reading.
What you don't know yet is where your Power Valve is opening (or should open). You might be running lean until the P.V. kicks in.
What number is stamped the P.V?
If you have a std vacuum gauge it likely came with about two feet of hose.
You can go to a parts store and purchase about six feet of that hose. Find a Vac port you can tap into.
Run that extra long hose into the cockpit thru an open window. You can leave the hood unlatched, won't hurt a thing.
Go for a ride. Notebook and pen.
Note different RPM ranges and jot down your vacuum reading.
What you don't know yet is where your Power Valve is opening (or should open). You might be running lean until the P.V. kicks in.
What number is stamped the P.V?
The PV is the 6.5 that came with the carb. What is your philosophy when it comes to PV selection? I've heard more than a couple over the years, none of which impressed me as very logical.
#13
Dementer sole survivor
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Check for burned plug wires....look lnto methanol injection.....try using seafoam to steam clean your pistons and valves, maybe it will scorch off the deposits...or just use water in a spray mist bottle hold your rpm up to 2500 rpm and mist above the carb...it will also steam clean the pistons if its a deposit issue.
#15
Le Mans Master
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The old fashion way of P.V. selection was to take a vac reading at idle and cut that number in half.
But with big cams and a car with dozens of vacuum accessories, it's tough to get 13 inches = 6.5 PV.
But with big cams and a car with dozens of vacuum accessories, it's tough to get 13 inches = 6.5 PV.
#19
Le Mans Master
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I tried one size up. One size down. Little effect.
At $25 a piece, you don't want to keep doing that all day.
I did notice on Ebay years ago, that you can get a bag assortment P.Vs all within a few inches of each other a lot cheaper than individually.
Some tech forums said to stay away from "two-stage" and avoid those power valves with huge windows. Racing valves, not street.
Stick with original Holley or QuickFuel parts.
Maybe Lars will stumble on to this thread.