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1975 Coupe. Manual.
Original interior wiring harness was hacked to shreds. Installed brand new Lecteic Limited interior harness. No crank. Same condition as with the last interior harness replaced it just to eliminate the 100 possible points of failure with it. Getting battery power to my fuse block. but not able to use any accessories or crank the engine. Tried jumping the clutch sensor- no crank. Tried jumping the clutch sensor and the door sensors- no crank. I can make it turn over with a screwdriver on the starter though. New ignition switch. New headlight switch. no lights will turn on. no brake lights. no blinkers. not sure what to do….
All new fuses. Spent a day cleaning the pins and block of the original engine and accessories block, in preparation of the new interior block.
I’ve got about 20k into this car. wiring is all that’s left… But the car isn’t worth anything if it can’t start😂
Last edited by 383Strokin; 03-25-2024 at 04:52 PM.
Relax. Have a beer. Or two. Thats where I usually start. The good news is you don't have to drive the car tomorrow.
Grab the wiring diagram and a meter (or test light) and start following the power. Slow and methodical. You'll find the problem.
With the key in START check for 12 volts at the (purple wire) "S" terminal (the small terminal next to the block).
If no power, then trace the wire to find the problem.
Walk away for a few days. Then systematically go thru everythng TWICE. Starting with what Peterbuilt suggested. If the wiring is all that is left you are way ahead of most of us
I had a problem with my fusebox. Everything looked ok, but there was a film on the terminals that stopped the continuity to the fuses. Check each terminal with a light to make sure you're actually getting power through the fuse.
If you have not replaced the engine harness.......you need to do so. The issue is probably at the firewall breakout plug.......the other likely suspect is the white ignition switch under the column.....this needs to be adjusted in the right spot or it can be like an auto trans with a poorly adjusted shifter.....hanging up between posts (gears)......
Get your test light out and follow the path.......you have no lights and no start.....so the first place to go is the Breakout plug to check power on both sides of the plug.......you may have power to the fuse box but not the right power.......in the right places......
Go slow, take your time and right what you have checked down in a notebook to keep track of where you are at......use deduction to funnel it down to the root cause......I troubleshoot industrial equipment and with Electronics I always tell people that you have to know very little about electronics to troubleshoot them if you use deduction......and process of elimination.....
Maybe this might help.
When I was modding my current project an 80 Camaro (I know oh the horror) for a LS swap I removed the engine compartment wiring block from the firewall. Done with the mods I plugged it back in and managed to bend over a couple of spades so it took me a while to figure out what was wrong.
As said above a test light or a meter is your best friend.
The worst part is trying to wiggle under the dash to get at the fuse block.
FIRST.... What is in common? No start, no lights anywhere, no accessories. Lights will come on w/o the ignition. Courtesy lights will come on all of the time. So odds that it is a sw problem are less. The starter cranks when jumped so you know you are getting pwr to the starter. Best guess, you dont have power through/past the block (from OP)
If you had power through the fuse block to gnd then something would come on inside. If you see power with a test light at the block, good. Do you see power through the block? One side should be hot all of the time one fuse will feed the sw, the other side is switched power. Test light to see if you have power on the hot side. Then test to see if you have power through the fuse. If yes, then see if you have a good ground with a meter. If there is an open from the block to gnd then there ya go.
Could be wrong, but that is how I would go after it.
A test light is great, a meter is better. Cheap 15 dollar Harbor Fright is fine.
edit, also roll some sandpaper while you are pulling fuses and buff the contacts. Its 50 years old, there will be corrosion. Touch them with dielectric grease when done
A test light is great, a meter is better. Cheap 15 dollar Harbor Fright is fine.
Yes it is.....Power Probe even better than that......test light is quick and dirty, easy to use but won't OHM anything......Power Probe won't OHM but checks continuity....and you can shoot power to anything you want.....to see if the circuit is broken.....from the fusebox side....
Yes it is.....Power Probe even better than that......test light is quick and dirty, easy to use but won't OHM anything......Power Probe won't OHM but checks continuity....and you can shoot power to anything you want.....to see if the circuit is broken.....from the fusebox side....
Jebby
Power probe is the best money I spent when I was replacing the wiring in my 75.
You've done the hard part replacing the dash harness. The engine harness and headlight harness are gravy compared to that. I would do both of those irrespective of whatever you find in your troubleshooting.
Yes it is.....Power Probe even better than that......test light is quick and dirty, easy to use but won't OHM anything......Power Probe won't OHM but checks continuity....and you can shoot power to anything you want.....to see if the circuit is broken.....from the fusebox side....
Jebby
Pretty cool. I will stick with a meter. Have a couple decades troubleshooting with one. 2 alligator clips and some wire will bring power (or gnd) wherever you want it, I might have a couple made up
03-25-2024, 04:41 PM
Wiring Headache. Might just abandon car
2 alligator clips and some wire will bring power (or gnd) wherever you want it, I might have a couple made up