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Also, what radiator is that and where did it come from? That upper left inlet looks way too long to be able to fit or work properly. It's certainly much longer than the Champion 3-Core CC718 that I put in my '80. I mean, it may fit, but that upper radiator hose is going to have to make one hell of a bend to make a connection.
Also, what radiator is that and where did it come from? That upper left inlet looks way too long to be able to fit or work properly. It's certainly much longer than the Champion 3-Core CC718 that I put in my '80. I mean, it may fit, but that upper radiator hose is going to have to make one hell of a bend to make a connection.
It's a Champion 3-core. I noticed the upper left inlet looks to be a mile long in the pic for some silly reason. I assure you it is normal length.
Add a 1984 Monte Carlo SS 305 T350C torque converter (125.00 dollars) to your new package and enjoy a 500 to 600 rpm increase in stall speed over the factory 1650 rpm which will effectively adds a 100ft pounds of torque at the hit of the gas , the difference of not being able to spin the tires to smoking them off the rims
Add a 1984 Monte Carlo SS 305 T350C torque converter (125.00 dollars) to your new package and enjoy a 500 to 600 rpm increase in stall speed over the factory 1650 rpm which will effectively adds a 100ft pounds of torque at the hit of the gas , the difference of not being able to spin the tires to smoking them off the rims
That is an interesting proposal. When I get to replacing the transmission I will look into it. Thanks.
(yes, I said 'replace' not 'rebuild'. I've been contacting local transmission shops for rebuild quotes. The 'best' I could find, from a highly reputable business, is $2500 - 3000. I can buy a brand new, beefed up Transmission for less........)
I ran the XFI 268 for a long time in my 383 until I broke two pistons, but that as my fault by pushing the motor a little too far. Anyway, the motor ran great . Here is the spec. GL with your build.
268XFIH13
P/N: 12-366-4
Spec:
2-6K rpm
LSA 113*
Dur@.050" IN= 224 EX= 231
Lift: IN= 520 EX= 515
The heads and Intake manifold/carb are off. Was really surprised how clean the heads and lifter valley were. Literally - No junk that you usually find on a 44 year old engine.
Heads are being ported/gasket-matched. Not doing anything heroic or excessive - opening the ports and reducing restriction/polishing.
Yes, I know a lot of folks said not to touch these 'crappy, worthless' heads, but I'm using it as a learning experience as I've never messed with cylinder heads before in this manner. And the difference between before vs. after is pretty significant. There is NO way these heads won't flow a LOT better than they did before I hacked them up .
Now I need to get the crank pulleys/harmonic balancer off without rotating the crank too far off 0 degrees TDC......
Yeah, I know I colored outside the lines a tad on the corners, but this is the first port I've ever put a grinder to, so I am learning (heck, I figure if I muck these heads up it won't be a huge deal... Ya know?). This was about halfway through, and I removed quite a bit more. I think I can widen each port by 1 to 1.5 mm, maybe even 2mm in places. I don't have a bore gauge so I'm kinda eyeballing and comparing. I'll polish the runners as best I can. I know folks say polished intake runners can possibly 'deter atomization of the fuel', but I'm thinking "gaining flow" takes precedence with these heads..
It's actually kind of fun,
Filled the exhaust x-ver ports on the heads with block filler this morning. Used duct tape to block the ports in the cylinder head combustion chambers, and jammed some paper towels in the bowls to give some support/backing to the tape. Propped the heads up so the port is level as possible. Mixed up 6.5 oz of Moroso Block Filler to cake-batter consistency so it will flow down the passages. 24 hours will tell the tale if I did this correctly.
X-Over bowl port Port covered with duct tape Jammed paper towels in the bowls for tape support Moroso block filler 6.5 oz in a cup Mixed to cake batter consistency for flow. Filled. Waiting 24 hours for curing.
Any 200cc aftermarket modern heads are still going to outperform and stock option on that 350.. the very minimal torque you might loose at low rpms will still leave you with more torque and hp than the stock heads. Imo This whole thing has been drastically exaggerated on the internet
I say this as someone running ported 195 aluminum heads on my mild 355 that replaced the dart 180 heads that were on it and experience only gains in performance.
I bought the larger heads knowing I was going to build a 383 or 400 next. After watching multiple dyno test episodes on this showing its not what it's at all made out to be I had no reservations about it.
Last edited by augiedoggy; 03-30-2024 at 01:23 PM.
Here are some pics of the heads and lifter valley taken right after the intake manifold and valve covers were taken off. I was happily surprised that there was no gunk/crap that you usually find in a 44 year old engine.
No gunk after 52K miles. Clean lifter valley. All I did was dip a paper towel into the standing oil puddles around the lifter bore holes. Outstanding!
How are folks replacing their break in valve springs after breaking in a new cam? Heads in car or out? Looking at mine I have the brake master cylinder and A/C housing blocking access to the last two valve spring assemblies on each side.
How are folks replacing their break in valve springs after breaking in a new cam? Heads in car or out? Looking at mine I have the brake master cylinder and A/C housing blocking access to the last two valve spring assemblies on each side.
Heads in the car. Use either compressed air or a rope fed in through the spark plug hole to hold the valves up. AC box and MC/Booster shouldn't be too far in the way to complete the job. I use a valve spring compressor from Summit Racing (this one) and I can work around the AC box or booster easily. If you get that compressor, heat up and flatten out the "forks" that press on the spring retainer. That will help the tool push the spring down straighter.
Heads in the car. Use either compressed air or a rope fed in through the spark plug hole to hold the valves up. AC box and MC/Booster shouldn't be too far in the way to complete the job. I use a valve spring compressor from Summit Racing (this one) and I can work around the AC box or booster easily. If you get that compressor, heat up and flatten out the "forks" that press on the spring retainer. That will help the tool push the spring down straighter.
Gracias, Senor. I've been seeing those fork-type compressors and reading reviews that said the forks were sketchy. Didn't know there was enough wiggle room for our chariots.
02-27-2024, 11:14 AM
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