Kevman72GT6

I'm still ironing out some issues on my L-48 revitalization, one thing I noticed since the rebuild (Edelbrock aluminum heads,) and Hooker long tubes, is that the boot of the MSD plugs is resting right on the header, even with the short Accel plugs. On the stock heads, I was able to use standard plugs (AC Delco) and the same plug wires, but these are going to melt.

Any suggestions?

Jebbysan

90 degree boots? Pics?

Jebby

Kevman72GT6

I guess they're Hedman headers... oops.

Jebbysan

I run the same headers with a Taylor 73051 cut your own set......the Taylor 90 degree boots appear to be much shorter in profile than the MSD.....although I have never measured them......

Jebby

HeadsU.P.

That's not good. That's not good at all.
Those silicone boots will handle a lot of heat, but not like that, direct contact.

Put a sock on it.
Click on my avatar and look for my build photo album.
I believe I bought Moroso sparkplug socks.
They come in sets of four, different colors, a little pricey, but will slip over the silicone boot.
They also come too long for my taste, so I cut the four in half and now have eight.

Look around on Summit for socks. They should save your boots from frying.

Kevman72GT6

I just ordered some on Amazon, I may even use them where the wire crosses near the header.

Thanks!!

Also the MSD wires were on the engine before the rebuild, I highly recommend them, I used to buy only Taylor wires but had a bad experience with a few sets, and haven't gone back since.

kossuth

Not a huge fan of buying stuff like that on Amazon. TBH there is a lot of fakes and forgeries being sold of everything on Amazon anymore.

With that said something with ceramic boots is the best with how close that is. We used a set of Accel 9000 ceramic booted universal plug wire sets for my brothers 68. They work OK. Some of the tangs inside the ceramic boot didn’t give a very positive click on the end of the plug. Had to pinch 3-4 of them down alittle (had to reach in with a pick and push down against the ceramic) to get a positive feel. Other than that they’ve been ok.

I would definitely put a ceramic booted plug wire on there though.

1Hotrodz

That will never work. you need to get shorter plugs( i see you already have the shorter accel plugs) and tighter boots or different heads(angle plug) and different headers. IMO, you need at least a 1/2" clearance between header and wires. Tighter fitting boots is the quick fix here! But I think you will still have issue with heat.

gkull

Accel plugs are NOT enough shorter to matter I did a post on them. But anyway, those headers were made for angle plug heads. You can take the headers to a tig welder and they cut off the pimary tube and or tubes and add 1/2 - 3/4 inches of pipe. Or you buy 3/8th header flanges and use it to space out the headers.

If your heads are aluminum you should be using Exhaust studs so you never strip out you head threads. AFR heads are notorius for having to dent one or two tubes for spark plug wires. the angle plug spark plug holes are in a bad location compared to Dart and Brodix.

1Hotrodz

WOW that's barely a 1/4" difference. i thought it would be more. Let's see if we can gain some clearance using a tighter 90°boot.

gkull

They aren't even a 1/4 inch difference which would be .250. It's something like .130 or about an 1/8th inch.

HeadsU.P.

What gkull is referring to in post 9 is a spacer made exactly like the header flange that fits the head.
Usually stainless, all the exhaust ports line-up as does the bolt holes for SBC.
And usually 1/4 to 3/8 thick, used for special header "fitment issues".

The drawbacks are: another set of gaskets are needed. Longer header bolts required.
And you double your chances of a header flange leak.
A spacer would help, but I believe there are some other options.

gkull

I've done the 3/8th thick flange, ARP header studs, and used the felpro blue steel header gaskets without a problem. I've also used the more like 1/2 inch Morroso header adapters so you can run bigger diameter primary pipes on an SBC.

The most invasive was cutting all the primary tubes on a band saw and then TIG welding about 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipes to space the headers farther outboard and then barley clearing the steering box. Which required heat wrapping those primary tubes near the box.

Kevman72GT6

When I had it on the stand, I had lots of room, which is why prior to sending the headers out for ceramic, I didn't worry. Infact, the stock AC Delco plugs fit perfectly fine, with room. I even used the thick gaskets from RemFlex, so they're already over 1/4"!

Of course, after you get it in, you find these issues.

I'm planning on getting it going for this year, and adding the studs in the winter. I've already got a ton of time and money into this rebuild and 2004R swap, so I'll use the heat boots for now, and fix it all then.

I'll ask my exhaust guy if he can add a spacer flange, maybe 3/8" so I can fit something better.

wwiiavfan

I’d also get some longer wires, so you can rotate those boots for best clearance.
Unless you have slack you can rob from elsewhere.

Kevman72GT6

That's a good point too, I didn't even think of that, probably the easiest fit tbh. I'll still need the heat boots, but it'll be a little further away.

ratflinger

I'm running Hedman also, but with angle plug AFR's. I also run my wires above the headers on a loom and have no fitment issues.

Sky65

I use these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...448rLpMI5IoXLI
They are significantly smaller than the standard MSD boots.

Tom

Stormin_Normin

I’m running MSD header wires, they are working really well.

gkull

These are some of the best wires made for higher power ignition systems. My vettes only wires!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-79230


Installing my refreshed 396 stroker SBC with 409 wires