2004R install in late C3
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
2004R install in late C3
To the guys out there that have experience with this conversion I have some questions.
I am gonna install my own 2004r in place of the th350 in my 80 L48... first time doing it myself. I do little without tons of research first, highly mechanically inclined in the collision industry for 38 years teaching in collision, body, paint, suspension, fabrication, welding etc but driveline is not my wheelhouse beyond the normal stuff.
I have a stock configuration 1980 with a rebuilt 2004r ready to go, ordered a new 2000ss converter, adjustable TV cable, correct bracket for the Qjet... this 2004r came with braided flex dip stick/fill tube appropriate for the deeper pan, I also have the B&M lock up controller (Speed)
I have researched enough to know what this will entail as far as difficulties in removing driveshaft and TH350 but I have a few questions again for those who have done this swap especially later C3 as I read some discrepancies.
* it looks like I will need a modified crossmemeber, appears 79 and older are OK but 80/81 crossmemeber will not work with the 2004r... is this correct and best source? Or find a 79 and older?
* are the transmission lines the same configuration, i know the location is slightly different but im reading the top and bottom lines are inverted between the two transmissions.
* is there a linkage bracket available for the 2004r pan bolt pattern, as i remeber from long ago one of the two bolts lines up for correct linkage but not the other.
* I plan on removing the distributor cap and fan before I begin... will the top two bellhousing bolts be easier from the top side or under with trans/engine tilted back a bit and long extension?
* how much forward/back movement am I looking for with the torque converter to flex plate before considering washers between the two or does it matter?
* If using the B&M controller where did you mount it?
Thanks in advance
I am gonna install my own 2004r in place of the th350 in my 80 L48... first time doing it myself. I do little without tons of research first, highly mechanically inclined in the collision industry for 38 years teaching in collision, body, paint, suspension, fabrication, welding etc but driveline is not my wheelhouse beyond the normal stuff.
I have a stock configuration 1980 with a rebuilt 2004r ready to go, ordered a new 2000ss converter, adjustable TV cable, correct bracket for the Qjet... this 2004r came with braided flex dip stick/fill tube appropriate for the deeper pan, I also have the B&M lock up controller (Speed)
I have researched enough to know what this will entail as far as difficulties in removing driveshaft and TH350 but I have a few questions again for those who have done this swap especially later C3 as I read some discrepancies.
* it looks like I will need a modified crossmemeber, appears 79 and older are OK but 80/81 crossmemeber will not work with the 2004r... is this correct and best source? Or find a 79 and older?
* are the transmission lines the same configuration, i know the location is slightly different but im reading the top and bottom lines are inverted between the two transmissions.
* is there a linkage bracket available for the 2004r pan bolt pattern, as i remeber from long ago one of the two bolts lines up for correct linkage but not the other.
* I plan on removing the distributor cap and fan before I begin... will the top two bellhousing bolts be easier from the top side or under with trans/engine tilted back a bit and long extension?
* how much forward/back movement am I looking for with the torque converter to flex plate before considering washers between the two or does it matter?
* If using the B&M controller where did you mount it?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Golfobsessed; 10-22-2023 at 08:22 AM.
#2
Melting Slicks
I plan on doing the same in my 80 L82. I did this swap in a 78 Trans Am years ago with a 200r4 from a wrecked Buick Grand National. Was very easy on that car.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did this on a number of camaros and later C3s back in the 90s but clearly my memory isn't too clear, i definitely dont remember changing crossmembers but appears I will need that with the 80, Vivid Racing looks like they have what I need for a crossmember.
#4
Golfobsessed
I did a 200-4r in my 68 in 2022. I was going from a manual so a little different so yours should be slightly easier. My responses will be in this BLUE color so you can see them easier.
I did a 200-4r in my 68 in 2022. I was going from a manual so a little different so yours should be slightly easier. My responses will be in this BLUE color so you can see them easier.
To the guys out there that have experience with this conversion I have some questions.
I am gonna install my own 2004r in place of the th350 in my 80 L48... first time doing it myself. I do little without tons of research first, highly mechanically inclined in the collision industry for 38 years teaching in collision, body, paint, suspension, fabrication, welding etc but driveline is not my wheelhouse beyond the normal stuff.
I have a stock configuration 1980 with a rebuilt 2004r ready to go, ordered a new 2000ss converter, adjustable TV cable, correct bracket for the Qjet... this 2004r came with braided flex dip stick/fill tube appropriate for the deeper pan, I also have the B&M lock up controller (Speed)
I have researched enough to know what this will entail as far as difficulties in removing driveshaft and TH350 but I have a few questions again for those who have done this swap especially later C3 as I read some discrepancies.
I did not even remove the driveshaft. I just tucked up it up in the tunnel and then brought it down later to reattach it. You might be able to also do tthat.
* it looks like I will need a modified crossmemeber, appears 79 and older are OK but 80/81 crossmemeber will not work with the 2004r... is this correct and best source? Or find a 79 and older?
You are correct about early c3 crossmembers. Even my manual had to 2 bolt holes on top to bolt down a THM-400 which is the same place you would bolt down a 2oo-4R. I saw this video of a BowTie overdrives crossmember and it looks fantastic. Take a look good clear images and you can see how it attaches on the outboard ends. Look at about the 3:20 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7ybQjVmEOw
* are the transmission lines the same configuration, i know the location is slightly different but im reading the top and bottom lines are inverted between the two transmissions.
I cannot help here since I went from a manual and fabricated my own lines....but from what I read it's easy enough.
* is there a linkage bracket available for the 2004r pan bolt pattern, as i remeber from long ago one of the two bolts lines up for correct linkage but not the other.
I bought an automatic shifter from an early c-3 (THM-400) and bolted it on. I had to drill one hole in the lower bracket but then it aligned perfectly for shifting. I modified the shifter plate upstairs with a dremel and fine-tuned it with a file to be able to select first gear. I'll go find those images for both of these mods in a little bit. I am "suspecting" that you can modify the Turbo 350 lower bracket like I did the Turbo 400 bracket.
* I plan on removing the distributor cap and fan before I begin... will the top two bellhousing bolts be easier from the top side or under with trans/engine tilted back a bit and long extension?
I found easy enough to access the upper bolts by lower the after side of the tranny and using a couple of long extensions.... no big deal..... yes, I was doing this in my garage on my back.
* how much forward/back movement am I looking for with the torque converter to flex plate before considering washers between the two or does it matter?
I found a source for this and I will look it up again.... I'll go look for this info and then come back and update.
Thanks in advance
I am gonna install my own 2004r in place of the th350 in my 80 L48... first time doing it myself. I do little without tons of research first, highly mechanically inclined in the collision industry for 38 years teaching in collision, body, paint, suspension, fabrication, welding etc but driveline is not my wheelhouse beyond the normal stuff.
I have a stock configuration 1980 with a rebuilt 2004r ready to go, ordered a new 2000ss converter, adjustable TV cable, correct bracket for the Qjet... this 2004r came with braided flex dip stick/fill tube appropriate for the deeper pan, I also have the B&M lock up controller (Speed)
I have researched enough to know what this will entail as far as difficulties in removing driveshaft and TH350 but I have a few questions again for those who have done this swap especially later C3 as I read some discrepancies.
I did not even remove the driveshaft. I just tucked up it up in the tunnel and then brought it down later to reattach it. You might be able to also do tthat.
* it looks like I will need a modified crossmemeber, appears 79 and older are OK but 80/81 crossmemeber will not work with the 2004r... is this correct and best source? Or find a 79 and older?
You are correct about early c3 crossmembers. Even my manual had to 2 bolt holes on top to bolt down a THM-400 which is the same place you would bolt down a 2oo-4R. I saw this video of a BowTie overdrives crossmember and it looks fantastic. Take a look good clear images and you can see how it attaches on the outboard ends. Look at about the 3:20 minute mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7ybQjVmEOw
* are the transmission lines the same configuration, i know the location is slightly different but im reading the top and bottom lines are inverted between the two transmissions.
I cannot help here since I went from a manual and fabricated my own lines....but from what I read it's easy enough.
* is there a linkage bracket available for the 2004r pan bolt pattern, as i remeber from long ago one of the two bolts lines up for correct linkage but not the other.
I bought an automatic shifter from an early c-3 (THM-400) and bolted it on. I had to drill one hole in the lower bracket but then it aligned perfectly for shifting. I modified the shifter plate upstairs with a dremel and fine-tuned it with a file to be able to select first gear. I'll go find those images for both of these mods in a little bit. I am "suspecting" that you can modify the Turbo 350 lower bracket like I did the Turbo 400 bracket.
* I plan on removing the distributor cap and fan before I begin... will the top two bellhousing bolts be easier from the top side or under with trans/engine tilted back a bit and long extension?
I found easy enough to access the upper bolts by lower the after side of the tranny and using a couple of long extensions.... no big deal..... yes, I was doing this in my garage on my back.
* how much forward/back movement am I looking for with the torque converter to flex plate before considering washers between the two or does it matter?
I found a source for this and I will look it up again.... I'll go look for this info and then come back and update.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by carriljc; 10-21-2023 at 11:31 PM.
#5
Golfobsessed
Not mine but this is how this fellow modifiy the lower shifter bracket for his Turbo-350 which would more applicable to you than the mod I did to the turbo 400 bracket:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1585524977
and just fyi here is how I modified my Turbo-400 lower bracket. Drilled a bigger "indent" and rebent it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604903026
And here you can see where I notched the detent plate with a dremel. Easy peasy and I was overthinking it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604916531
Not mine but this is how this fellow modifiy the lower shifter bracket for his Turbo-350 which would more applicable to you than the mod I did to the turbo 400 bracket:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1585524977
and just fyi here is how I modified my Turbo-400 lower bracket. Drilled a bigger "indent" and rebent it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604903026
And here you can see where I notched the detent plate with a dremel. Easy peasy and I was overthinking it. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604916531
Last edited by carriljc; 10-21-2023 at 11:32 PM.
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Pheengurs (10-28-2023)
#6
Golfobsessed
Found this info about installing and bolting down my torque converter (TC). YOu need to absolutely make sure that the TC is fully inserted onto the tranny. You bolt up the 200-4R to the engine. You should then have about 1/4" between the TC mounting pads and the flexplate surface (anyway, I did). You then just snug it up to within 1/8" to 3/16" inch gap using flat-washers. You can use a 1/8" drill bit to check for that gap value. Then locktite it and torque the bolts down.
If you do FB you can go join the 200-4R Nerds group. I should have joined before I started -- I ended getting lots of pointers there (gotta filter the bs as appropriate)....
Found this info about installing and bolting down my torque converter (TC). YOu need to absolutely make sure that the TC is fully inserted onto the tranny. You bolt up the 200-4R to the engine. You should then have about 1/4" between the TC mounting pads and the flexplate surface (anyway, I did). You then just snug it up to within 1/8" to 3/16" inch gap using flat-washers. You can use a 1/8" drill bit to check for that gap value. Then locktite it and torque the bolts down.
If you do FB you can go join the 200-4R Nerds group. I should have joined before I started -- I ended getting lots of pointers there (gotta filter the bs as appropriate)....
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#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Golfobsessed
I did a 200-4r in my 68 in 2022. I was going from a manual so a little different so yours should be slightly easier. My responses will be in this BLUE color so you can see them easier.
I did a 200-4r in my 68 in 2022. I was going from a manual so a little different so yours should be slightly easier. My responses will be in this BLUE color so you can see them easier.
#8
Drifting
#9
You don’t need the B&M lock up kit because your car already has it from the factory
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did the swap in my 76. I got my crossmember thru www.bowtieoverdrives.com
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Bikespace (10-22-2023)
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#12
because your 1980 has a T350C (C= TCC) has a lockup already that just needs hooked up to the 200R4 . I have two 1980 L82’s , one is converted to a 700R4 and the other I might go 200R4 so I don’t have to modify the exhaust
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Fly skids up! (10-22-2023)
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What is it your hooking up to the 2004R from the 1980 corvette as there is not a vacuum control on the 2004R
#14
Yep , no computer needed your car already has the TCC vacuum switch mounted on the fire wall between the brake booster and wiper motor with a harness that goes to your T350C transmission and the correct brake switch that releases the TCC and stops cruise control with a tap of the brakes , all you have to do is change the wires to the 200R4 connector at the transmission
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yep , no computer needed your car already has the TCC vacuum switch mounted on the fire wall between the brake booster and wiper motor with a harness that goes to your T350C transmission and the correct brake switch that releases the TCC and stops cruise control with a tap of the brakes , all you have to do is change the wires to the 200R4 connector at the transmission
gathering all my parts now and not gonna start till I return from vacation Nov 2nd.
#16
Your car has a factory TCC aka Lockup Torque Converter. It uses a temperature controlled vacuum switch next to the thermostat housing that also that feeds vacuum to the EGR Valve , TCC vacuum switch and Cannister Purge Valve . Once engine is warmed up the vacuum switch will activate the TCC in high gear as long as the vacuum is between 7 inches to 3 inches and the foot brake is not activated. Works great too and NO computer . 81 and 82 uses the computer but you are in luck
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Your car has a factory TCC aka Lockup Torque Converter. It uses a temperature controlled vacuum switch next to the thermostat housing that also that feeds vacuum to the EGR Valve , TCC vacuum switch and Cannister Purge Valve . Once engine is warmed up the vacuum switch will activate the TCC in high gear as long as the vacuum is between 7 inches to 3 inches and the foot brake is not activated. Works great too and NO computer . 81 and 82 uses the computer but you are in luck
#18
Melting Slicks
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Bikespace (10-22-2023)
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was planning on modifying the new Gforce crossmember before I install it for the single side dual in case I ever wanted to go back but after looking at your photo there may be enough room for the both pipes to one side.
Last edited by Golfobsessed; 10-22-2023 at 04:24 PM.
#20
Living the Vette life....
I am running a 4L60E in my 81 using the G-Force crossmember. You can run true dual exhaust system but you do have to run it down the passengers side under the seat. Here is how I did mine. There is enough room to run it through the crossmember and make the turn before getting to the drivers side floor pan.