'Big' brakes on C3
#41
Old Pro Solo Guy
I think Ignatz brackets are home-made.
You and I would probably have to do the same.
You and I would probably have to do the same.
#43
Team Owner
.....
Any pictures or part# of parts.
Is this what you are talking about ?
6061 J56 Brackets - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Any pictures or part# of parts.
Is this what you are talking about ?
6061 J56 Brackets - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
#44
Drifting
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,939
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C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I've only really experienced what I believe was pad knock-off resulting in a long pedal when I had quite worn pads and rotors - I think the additional amount that the pistons were hanging out of the calipers was somehow part of the problem - but I have had the 14" Wilwoods on the car for some years now, and they have different calipers and brackets entirely, so I'm not comparing with a stock setup.
#45
Race Director
The Corvette dealer and vintage racer Jim Glass (and a friend I often crew for), gave a machine shop in Montgomery NY a set of original cast iron ones to copy and duplicate in aluminum. I forget how many sets he originally made, but shortly after running them the shop got in trouble and folded. I understand the shop did work for Orange County Choppers and their downfall apparently had an effect on the machine shop too, but whatever the cause the CAD work disappeared with the shop. Jim doesn't have anymore of the aluminum reinforcement brackets, other then the ones on his race car.
The ones referenced in the link in post #31 above apparently went nowhere, since the OP hasn't been back on the Forum since January 2018.
Around 10-12 years ago a Dallas vintage racer had a company called American Race Components that made a run of alloy sets. While his website is still (somewhat) up, there's no mention of the reinforcement brackets, or any contact information on the site. I've sent a PM to Forum member C2Racer, who's a vintage racer from Texas, to see if Steve may know the company and how to reach them.
I know where there are a new few pairs of the ones Jim ran, in both the 65-68 small hole and 69-82 large hole versions. One set's spoken for, but there are a couple others left. I also have access to some of the reproduction cast iron 69-82 large hole ones. If anyone is interested PM me for more information.
#46
Old Pro Solo Guy
As much as the tech side of me would like a pair, I am sure I do not need them, and will save them for someone who really does.
OTOH I have an idea.
It would be nice to preserve the effort that went into that design.
I do have a little experience with 3-D printing.
Just enough to know that those pieces could be 3D laser scanned, and that would create a cad-cam file from the scan.
Then the file could be saved or sent electronically and any machine shop with a cad-cam router could make a set of these.
OTOH I have an idea.
It would be nice to preserve the effort that went into that design.
I do have a little experience with 3-D printing.
Just enough to know that those pieces could be 3D laser scanned, and that would create a cad-cam file from the scan.
Then the file could be saved or sent electronically and any machine shop with a cad-cam router could make a set of these.
#47
Melting Slicks
Although I don't have a comparison to a stock setup, I do have data from the track that shows the factory 'configuration' can produce ~1g braking performance. I built my system long before any kits were available, but I'm still using the factory sized rotors, front piston size, rear piston size, and a factory master cylinder. I have upgraded the system with numerous light weight parts though and added cooling ducts to the front brakes.
Once I ducted air to the center of the rotors and went to Hawk pads, I didn't experience any brake fade after that.
Front aluminum calipers & hubs.
Once I ducted air to the center of the rotors and went to Hawk pads, I didn't experience any brake fade after that.
Front aluminum calipers & hubs.
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interpon (09-25-2023)
#48
Old Pro Solo Guy
1.0G at 120 mph!
That's excellent.
And great data logging software too.
I was able to get 1.29G out of my Pro-Solo 70 Camaro. But that was in an autocross setting at say 70mph.
I was using the super grippy Carbotech Superstreet FF pads (loved them), or the Performance Friction Z pads (dusty). (Dustiest pads ever, black wheels in 10 miles, but they worked). With Yoko 008Rs or Hoosiers.
Good thing it was short 90 sec courses because those pads would generate some serious heat and overheat if I used them on the high speed track. BTDT.
But they were great for the first half dozen stops! Even the 1st one.
I still had the rear drums on the Camaro with the factory single piston front discs & calipers. Nothing exotic at all except the pads.
The drums required full metallic race linings and vented drums to not overheat even on the 1st stop from 60mph, after I cranked the rear pressure up to make them work. Then they were fine for A-X. Not too grippy, but they would not fade, so I just cranked the rear psi up more. My L88 adjustable proportioning valve made a huge difference also. Like 25%! IIRC we started around 0.88G with early front lockup.
That's excellent.
And great data logging software too.
I was able to get 1.29G out of my Pro-Solo 70 Camaro. But that was in an autocross setting at say 70mph.
I was using the super grippy Carbotech Superstreet FF pads (loved them), or the Performance Friction Z pads (dusty). (Dustiest pads ever, black wheels in 10 miles, but they worked). With Yoko 008Rs or Hoosiers.
Good thing it was short 90 sec courses because those pads would generate some serious heat and overheat if I used them on the high speed track. BTDT.
But they were great for the first half dozen stops! Even the 1st one.
I still had the rear drums on the Camaro with the factory single piston front discs & calipers. Nothing exotic at all except the pads.
The drums required full metallic race linings and vented drums to not overheat even on the 1st stop from 60mph, after I cranked the rear pressure up to make them work. Then they were fine for A-X. Not too grippy, but they would not fade, so I just cranked the rear psi up more. My L88 adjustable proportioning valve made a huge difference also. Like 25%! IIRC we started around 0.88G with early front lockup.
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aaroncorvette (09-24-2023)
#49
Racer
Also note wilwood makes a D8-6 which is also a 6 piston caliper, but matches the factory caliper. This is not the same as you have.
D8-6 Wilwood Disc Brakes - Search: 140-11857
What you have is one of these, based on rotor size.
Forged Narrow Superlite 6R Big Brake Front Brake Kit
140-10617
6-Piston Front Kit
14.00-in Rotor Diameter
1.25-in Rotor Width
18-in Min Wheel Dia*
140-10616
6-Piston Front Kit
13.06-in Rotor Diameter
1.25-in Rotor Width
17-in Min Wheel Dia*
140-12946
6-Piston Front Kit
12.19-in Rotor Diameter
1.10-in Rotor Width
15-in Min Wheel Dia*
D8-6 Wilwood Disc Brakes - Search: 140-11857
What you have is one of these, based on rotor size.
Forged Narrow Superlite 6R Big Brake Front Brake Kit
140-10617
6-Piston Front Kit
14.00-in Rotor Diameter
1.25-in Rotor Width
18-in Min Wheel Dia*
140-10616
6-Piston Front Kit
13.06-in Rotor Diameter
1.25-in Rotor Width
17-in Min Wheel Dia*
140-12946
6-Piston Front Kit
12.19-in Rotor Diameter
1.10-in Rotor Width
15-in Min Wheel Dia*
He chose this because he wanted to go with an Old School look with 15” wheels. He’s going with an built 454 with a manual valve body trans. If it ever gets done. He’s been waiting forever. Big purchase for a 17yo.
Last edited by JakeLucas; 09-20-2023 at 10:35 AM.
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aaroncorvette (09-23-2023)
#50
Burning Brakes
I know Ross very well. We’re both from England. He’s got a hot ‘68 489, I’ve got a hot ‘71 383. Mines more pro touring than his. I know what he uses his car for and it’s not track stuff really, ditto me. Fast road.
My stock setup with Yellowstuff pads is amazing. No one needs more braking than that for the street. I really rip the crap out of my car and I know it stops.
So my advice is -
Power steering is a must, I can lock up all 4 wheels and did to stop about 3ft from an idiot doing a u turn in the road.
yellowstuff or equivalent pads are a must
decent tyres.
these are the 3 biggest improvements.
now we both have (I will soon) have 18” wheels. So I will eventually change to D8 wilwood calipers (just for the weight) and maybe 13” or 14” rotors. But none of that is to get better braking, it’s just weight and looks.
the other mods will achieve better braking.
My stock setup with Yellowstuff pads is amazing. No one needs more braking than that for the street. I really rip the crap out of my car and I know it stops.
So my advice is -
Power steering is a must, I can lock up all 4 wheels and did to stop about 3ft from an idiot doing a u turn in the road.
yellowstuff or equivalent pads are a must
decent tyres.
these are the 3 biggest improvements.
now we both have (I will soon) have 18” wheels. So I will eventually change to D8 wilwood calipers (just for the weight) and maybe 13” or 14” rotors. But none of that is to get better braking, it’s just weight and looks.
the other mods will achieve better braking.
#51
Drifting
Thread Starter
I want to thank all of you who contributed to my original query relating to larger diameter discs etc.......your comments have been very helpful......and it seems the reason perhaps why no one previously had published a 'measured' comparison relating to stopping distances using 'big' brakes seems to be due to there being to be very little difference over and above properly maintained OEM disc brakes (with 'good' pads) other than possibly improved pedal 'feel' and maybe better heat disipation under race conditions.... thank you once again fella's!
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#52
Team Owner
I want to thank all of you who contributed to my original query relating to larger diameter discs etc.......your comments have been very helpful......and it seems the reason perhaps why no one previously had published a 'measured' comparison relating to stopping distances using 'big' brakes seems to be due to there being to be very little difference over and above properly maintained OEM disc brakes (with 'good' pads) other than possibly improved pedal 'feel' and maybe better heat dissipation under race conditions.... thank you once again fella's!