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I will reach out to Lars, as for the current setup do you think I still need to switch to a Rochester's or should I just stick to this for now?
@lars is the man.
I don't know how its running or your budget.
you have what edlebrock?
spread bore.
some claim they are great.
anyway, tuning will tell you.
in a perfect world a rochester will serve you well.
looks like previous owner did some engine work, what has to be discovered.
tune it first.
good luck
@lars is the man.
I don't know how its running or your budget.
you have what edlebrock?
spread bore.
some claim they are great.
anyway, tuning will tell you.
in a perfect world a rochester will serve you well.
looks like previous owner did some engine work, what has to be discovered.
tune it first.
good luck
@lars is the man.
I don't know how its running or your budget.
you have what edlebrock?
spread bore.
some claim they are great.
anyway, tuning will tell you.
in a perfect world a rochester will serve you well.
looks like previous owner did some engine work, what has to be discovered.
tune it first.
good luck
Lars pretty much advised the same, get rid of this Edelbrock first and put a Q-Jet in. I am having trouble figuring out what would be compatible though, would this unit work in my case?
Is @lars going to rebuild a Q-Jet for you? Did he give you any suggestions in what to look for in an unmolested core that is correct for your car? He should have specific part numbers for you.
The CCC-hindered carb you linked is NOT what you want. It has also been remanufactured, incorrectly. You want a 1980 Q-Jet with an electric choke, or a late 70s carb that can be converted to electric choke, to give you the most intake options in the future.
Honestly, if you have a running, driving C3, I'd just drive it a bunch before spending more money on something that might not be right. The car will have plenty of other stuff that needs to be fixed. In the future, if you decide you want a square-bore intake and a Holley carb, or EFI, or an LS swap, any money spent on the correct Q-Jet for that car will be wasted.
Is @lars going to rebuild a Q-Jet for you? Did he give you any suggestions in what to look for in an unmolested core that is correct for your car? He should have specific part numbers for you.
The CCC-hindered carb you linked is NOT what you want. It has also been remanufactured, incorrectly. You want a 1980 Q-Jet with an electric choke, or a late 70s carb that can be converted to electric choke, to give you the most intake options in the future.
Honestly, if you have a running, driving C3, I'd just drive it a bunch before spending more money on something that might not be right. The car will have plenty of other stuff that needs to be fixed. In the future, if you decide you want a square-bore intake and a Holley carb, or EFI, or an LS swap, any money spent on the correct Q-Jet for that car will be wasted.
I am still waiting on Lars to respond with his recommendation on what Carb works best in terms of where to source it and the part number. I don't think I'll want to do anything crazy with it in the future to be completely honest, I just want it to run right and things done correctly. I will be driving this as a weekend car from to time so if it has a very bad carb on it right off the bat, I'd be better off swapping that out and having it tuned correctly.
It's not that it's a bad carburetor. The point made earlier is it does not match the size of the openings on the top of the intake manifold. An adapter was used to make it bolt on. A Quadrajet has two small front barrels and two large rear barrels. The Edelbrock has 4 barrels all the same size and none of them match the holes on the top of the intake.
It's not that it's a bad carburetor. The point made earlier is it does not match the size of the openings on the top of the intake manifold. An adapter was used to make it bolt on. A Quadrajet has two small front barrels and two large rear barrels. The Edelbrock has 4 barrels all the same size and none of them match the holes on the top of the intake.
Yeah, that totally makes sense. That's why I'd rather have a compatible carb swapped in that works better for this engine rather than keeping something that would hinder the performance. Hopefully @lars can point me in the right direction here as his insight is invaluable.
Thank you for clearing this up, I will look for a 80s Rochester's. However, I still don't completely understand the benefits of the carburetor being changed, is it to run smoother (just trying to learn as much as possible) since it seems from previous posts that the Edelbrock one blocks some flow. Is there any good resource or website to acquire that carburetor? I've found plenty with a search, but dont know what to trust. Is there anyone that has a spare rebuilt one (pm me please) ? Thanks all.
It is not that it is an Edelbrock....it is because it is a square bore on the wrong intake (spread bore).....
The benefit is a proper running responsive engine that makes good power and gets decent economy.....which will never happen with your current setup....
Your current setup is common with the novice....who believe because they made it fit and its shiny, it should be the best....well, it isn't....at all.
Do not look into commercial rebuilt Q-Jets either.....they are hacked and terrible....all of them....
If you go to a 2101 or 2701 Performer intake you can keep the current carb....which is still inferior to a good Q-Jet.....
Now that you have it running, don’t change a bunch of stuff until you’ve had a chance to run the car down the road a while and evaluate it’s real world performance. Big difference in that vs just idling in your driveway.
But before you can take it on the road, have you done the things to make it safe? Properly serviced brakes (C3 Vettes are different from most everything else out there), working brake/head lights, turn signals?
I've talked to @lars and I am on the path of finding a good Q-Jet for my car. Otherwise, there is a lot that needs to get sorted. I need to run a compression/leak down test to ensure that this engine is solid all around before going down installing a different carb. I also need to sort out all the leaks and change out that horrible fuel line. Not to mention, the transmission is low on oil so something is leaking there that also needs sorting. Theres a lot on my plate to get ironed out before the cherry on top goes on. I'll keep updating in this thread and hopefully we can get this C3 back to its former glory.
Hello again, fellow Corvette enthusiasts, I'm back with another chapter in the ongoing saga of my C3. Today, I embarked on a compression test and, in the process, removed all the spark plugs. Unfortunately, they don't look too promising. Based on the invaluable feedback I've received from previous posts and research, I understand that I need to follow certain steps. However, I've hit a few roadblocks and could really use your guidance. Here's where I stand: 1. **Opening the Throttle 100%**: I'm not entirely sure how to accomplish this. Could someone walk me through the process or provide tips on how to do this correctly? 2. **Opening the Choke 100%**: Similarly, I'm a bit lost when it comes to opening the choke all the way. Any instructions or insights on how to achieve this would be greatly appreciated. 3. **Disconnecting the Positive Wire on the Coil**: This step also has me stumped. I can't locate the positive wire or even the coil. If anyone could shed some light on where to find these components and how to safely disconnect the wire, it would be immensely helpful. You can see my distributor in the photo attached, would unplugging it be enough or the ignition wires? Lastly, I want to express my gratitude for the unwavering support and expertise of this community. Your willingness to assist me in my journey with this C3 is truly heartwarming. Thank you all once again for being such an invaluable resource. Thanks all
1. Place something on the gas pedal to hold it open, a brick.
2. Place anything large that won't fall into the carburetor to hold the choke open.
3. Unplug the BAT connection at the distributor cap.
1. Place something on the gas pedal to hold it open, a brick.
2. Place anything large that won't fall into the carburetor to hold the choke open.
3. Unplug the BAT connection at the distributor cap.
Perfect, ty. Do I need to worry about anything with the fuel pump or fuel lines before doing this?
Have you located a carb yet ?
Let me look in my bins & get some carb numbers & I'll send to you.
Then if any of the numbers sound like good candidates I can send pictures &
then you can discuss rebuilding & shipping costs with Lar's
09-07-2023, 10:37 PM
