Brad_B

The wiper/turn signal/brights switch in my '77 finally gave up the ghost. As we know, it was a one year only part and very hard/expensive to find. I have reached out to the usual suspects about getting the column rebuilt with the really expensive or repaired part and will know more about what broke in the switch when I get the column out.

My question is around what other options are out there if I don't want to go back down the road of a one year only part? I rebuilt the column last winter so it is in good shape. Is there a way to install another year turn signal switch in a '77 column? How do I move the wipers and brights?

If anyone has done something I would like to hear and see some options.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Brad
Edit: Sorry, forgot to mention is it a T&T column. I have also added some pics. The pivot is broken, but the plastic part is in bad shape as well.

4-vettes

I too own a 77. A lot of Hoopla out there about the 77's more modern setup on the column.
It's not a switch. It's 3 different switches controled by one lever.
the wiper switch is down the column. The signal switch is like a bazillion other cars.


This, they say this fits a 77 corvette and numerous other cars.
What broke?
the high/ low switch? the wiper switch or the turn signal switch?
Seems nothing special about the turn signal switch.
And I certainly wouldn't remove my column to replace it or any of these switches. I don't like extra work.

bmotojoe

First, there were 2 different "Smart" switches for the 1977.
One for the standard column and one for the T&T column.
Both are one year only switches.
The switch controlled the wiper speeds and washer function only.
These switches are very simple in design.
The turn signal lever fits through the hole of the actuator.
The spring loaded switch actuator rotates pressing on the brass contact plate making or breaking contacts inside the switch for either the Off Low or High speeds of the wiper motor.
Did OP troubleshoot wiper motor itself before coming to the conclusion the problem is with the switch?
Here is a photo showing the rocker style contacts that control the speeds.
The set of point like contacts are for the washer pump.
Need to know more from OP to help more...
Yes there is a more modern switch that can be easily modified for the T&T column.

bmotojoe

T&T column only:
Now if it is broken pivot bracket any 77-86 GM tilt column pivot bracket can be used, just need to drill out the pivot bolt hole from 13/64" to 11/32"
There were a few design changes made to strengthen the pivot bracket over the years, these brackets shown are all like gen 3 or the latest design used by GM.
Years ago I personally knew a GM parts manager for a local Chevrolet dealership and he gave me these.
Told me to keep them that I might need them later for my 77...
That's how I know the story about the commonly used GM pivot bracket.

4-vettes

Like I said before. It's really 3 separate switches. First.
Whats not working?
second, you don't need to pull the column out of your car to fix it.

Brad_B

I added some photos to the original post. It looks like the pivot is broken, but the plastic piece the handle goes into is pretty worn out as well. I am concerned if I just fix the pivot that the plastic will give out soon as well; it's already pretty loose. Everything worked prior to the pivot breaking except for the washer fluid. I can't say I ever tried to track down the problem and just didn't use it. Turn signal, brights, and wipers all worked before breakage.

Thanks,
Brad

Brad_B

Bmotojoe, can you give me some info/part number for a more modern switch that will work? I have pretty good mechanical skills so if it takes a little modification I can probably make that happen.

Thanks!
Brad

bmotojoe

Although GM did make design changes to the pivot bracket for strength reasons the dimmer switch needs to be adjusted correctly.
A poorly adjusted dimmer switch will put a lot of unneeded stress on the pot metal pivot bracket!
I will start there...
Instructions:






When you remove the pivot bracket from the switch to enlarge the hole for the pivot bolt, rip down a piece of hardwood so it fits in the opening, if you skip this step most likely the bit will auger through to the other hole you don't want that!
I just used a length and wood I had handy for an example...


Here is a video I made showing what you need and the steps to the modification...
Good Luck!

bmotojoe

A little more info on the 1417 Switch:
Circuits:
Circuit #150 is the common ground
Off position: Circuit #91 and #150 are connected
Low Speed: Circuits #91 - #92 & #150 are connected
High Speed: Circuits #92 & #150 are connected
Washer Pump Motor: Circuits #94 & #150 are connected
One Time Wiper Sweep Low Speed: Circuits: #91 - #92 & #150
As you can see the new switch uses rotary style contacts vs the rocker style.
Unlike the 77 switch the new switch uses a common ground to feed both one side of the Washer Pump contacts and switch main ground Buss.
As you can see I tied together the Gray and Purple wires and landed them in the 4 wire connector housing in Cell D, there is a reason for this.
When the switch and lever are in the OFF position, if you rotate the lever past the OFF position there are a set momentary contacts, when made the wiper motor will run on Low speed for one sweep and then park, or run for as long as the lever is held.
When you release the lever the momentary set of contacts open and the wiper motor will finish its rotation and return to it's home or park position.
This is what I named One Time Wiper Sweep Low Speed...
Now you just need a switch!


.

Brad_B

Thank you very much! I am trying to track one down..... not easy....

bmotojoe

Other manufacture part numbers same switch:
Delco D6313A
SMP DS 450
WVE 1S4463
There is 1 DS 450 on e-bay but the sellers feedback is questionable......
If you have an account at Rockauto you can get notified if (when) the WVE 1S4463 is available...
More WVE switch views and specification LINK: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...929355&jsn=719

Brad_B

Well, I found the switch and it looks to be new as described! I will probably ask a question or two as I go through this, but will keep this thread updated as I do. It will probably be a little bit before I dig in, so thanks to everyone for the help!

Greg

Here are a few less expensive alternatives, if you're on a budget.

bmotojoe

Greg, what about the dimmer function?
lol

Greg

Damn! The flaw in my otherwise perfect answer.

Brad_B

Ha! It actually broke while I was around 20 min from home and I really thought about hand signals. Then I thought no one really remembers them (I do because I road bike) and I figured they would just run into me because they were too concentrated on my hand signals!

bmotojoe

Nice!
I suggest before drilling out the pivot bolt hole you punch out the metal pin and remove the pot metal pivot bracket from the switch.
1. You can secure the bracket in a vice easier without switch.
2. There will be chips that you don't want inside the switches rotary contact area.
3. You will have some burs to clean up with a file and emery cloth.
"IF" you split the bracket from the switch keep track of the 3 parts used to secure the turn lever in the switch socket, I labeled them 1, 2, & 3.
You may also find some white lithium grease packed inside 3 the plastic cup.

Brad_B

Hi all. I just got around to this and it worked great. Follow these steps, along with disassembling the column, and you will be a happy camper. Finding the switch and disassembly/assembly of the column are the harder parts to this.

Thanks for all the helpful posts. Cheers!

bmotojoe

You have successfully upgraded your 1977 Smart Switch to a more modern 1980 Citation, Skylark, & Omega wiper/washer switch...LOL

Grav1ty

Thank you for the video

Working on a customers car. First time dealing with this setup. My plastic cap was broken and the actuator was missing. Did not find a lot of information at first. But this thread kept showing up so I thought I'd add my findings.

My replacement switch was not drilled directly in the center. I wanted to leave a little more martial to work with. I drilled the the mount hole to 5/16 instead of 11/32. I then turned the bolt shoulder down to 5/16 using a file and drill chucked into a vise. Mated them together with some cutting compound. Cleaned and greased. Works great.

​​​​​​I'd like to add the dimmer actuator to the list of info. With mine all broken and missing, I had no idea what took up the gap

Little plastic black spacer between the dimmer lever and the dimmer rod. It rides a bump in the cover to actuate properly. (Grease helped keep it in place during install.)

Looks like the cover broke and spit out the actuator part. Never to be seen again. This has been broken for years.



​​​​​​

Wiring was spot on. Thank you again.