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Did a alternator test with a volt meter hooked to battery. Rpm about 2500. This is the reading I got. Do I need a new alternator? Car fires right up. Thanks for suggestions.
Post a pic of the Part Number. The application is easy to find. http://corvettec3.ca/index.htm
I think I found the numbers for my ‘71 there. And , if you don’t want an original alt case, I’d like it.
If that thing is reading 12.4 vdc (I cannot see it for ****) at 2500 rpm, then your Alternator is not adequate. Remove it and go get it tested.
Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
Did a alternator test with a volt meter hooked to battery. Rpm about 2500. This is the reading I got. Do I need a new alternator? Car fires right up. Thanks for suggestions.
The chinesium replacements are crap..and draw more horsepower than oem..
if you are 12.4, you are on low barely out.
if driving, starting, and handling power draws ok..i would drive it…
keep an eye on it..drive around headlights on and park it and measure battery voltage..
pics of alternator? And numbers?
The chinesium replacements are crap..and draw more horsepower than oem..
if you are 12.4, you are on low barely out.
if driving, starting, and handling power draws ok..i would drive it…
keep an eye on it..drive around headlights on and park it and measure battery voltage..
pics of alternator? And numbers?
i don’t see any part numbers. It was in the car when I got it 3 years ago. Only weird thing is my temp and battery gauge act weird. Battery gauge was moving yesterday and today it sits just under 0. Temp gauge worked good yesterday and today it didn’t move. But then started moving. Here are alt pics.
It could. As for a rebuilt kit. I got this one off of Ebay. A great product and it contains more parts than the NAPA kit I bought and for 1/2 the price. It has been working great.
If you cannot read numbers in the place they should be, it is probably a rebuild that has been blasted to oblivion, but just make sure in case original and someone rebuilt and clocked wrong.
Beng clocked wrong is about where it should be for wires, placement etc.. same alternator, 1000 applications…both halves can be split and repositioned.
What do those ground wires go to? Do you have electric fans?
this site / linkmay help http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml
If you cannot read numbers in the place they should be, it is probably a rebuild that has been blasted to oblivion, but just make sure in case original and someone rebuilt and clocked wrong.
Beng clocked wrong is about where it should be for wires, placement etc.. same alternator, 1000 applications…both halves can be split and repositioned.
What do those ground wires go to? Do you have electric fans?
this site / linkmay help http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml
There are numbers but I will have to remove alternator and still might be readable. There is one electric fan. There used to be a msd connected but has been removed. Not sure if that ground wire has anything to do with what you asked. This is a big block car just saying.
What you mean clocked wrong? It’s been this way and ran fine for 3 years.
Reading your profile you have a big block 454.
I believe your clocking is correct for your application.
Your unloaded test results are low, should be around 14 vdc.
If the loaded test was done with both the HI Beam headlights and blower motor on HI that to looks low, should be in the mid 13vdc range
10-16-2022, 04:18 PM
Alternator
