kodpkd

68 vet. I am thinking about new trailing arms. The original ones are corroded. Is it possible/easy to do just the trailing arms and not the bearings. How do you remove the hub from the arm and not need the special tools to test and reinstall the bearings.
I know,,,, as long as it's apart do the bearings. I might wait until winter and do the everything. I just thought if the end play tests good not to mess with it.
I have had almost everything off the trailing arm, shock mount, strut rods, rotors, calipers, parking brake, I just have to fight the pivot bolt.

Also a good time to restore the rotor back plate.

gg521

Yes. It is possible

pspicci

Pretty sure there is just 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly to the trailing arm.

kodpkd

So take the 4 nuts off that hold the hub to the trailing arm and remove the spindle, rotor back plate, half shaft plate and shock mount in one unit. Is it likely it will pound out without taking the spindle nut off?

Fly skids up!

You do have to remove the yoke. It won't pass through the trailing arm. I would wait until you can do everything at once. The parts aren't that expensive and it only takes (well I can) a hour to disassemble a trailing arm and to reassemble with a new bushing, bearings with the parking brake assembled and ready to go back in the car. Cleaning and painting takes additional time.

pspicci

I had to replace a rotted out trailing arm once but it was back in the 80's and i think we had to take the flange off the spindle but i'm not 100% sure on that.

Pat

kossuth

Take a good look at them. They are known to rust jack along the seams. Also make sure its not bent. Not uncommon to one bent from and errant trip into a ditch etc.

kodpkd

Yes,,,, I see now that the U joint flange has to come off. I also saw a video that just replaced the trailing arm with an aftermarket arm. They removed the spindle, then reinstalled it with the correct torque spec. With the spindle off at a minimum I would have to install new seals. Then check end play and grease the bearings. Hummmm, it's sounding like getting the complete kit for the bearings isn't a bad idea.
There is a spindle knocker that is used to remove the spindle. Is it really that hard to knock the spindle out?

GTR1999

As the other guys said, you can remove the inner axle nut, cup washer, and flange. On the front remove the shoes, remove the 4 nuts and lock washers, tap out the support assembly with the axle in place. Do not drive out the axle unless you plan on replacing the bearings and understand the process. There are several ways to set up the bearings, I'm not going into that here but will say the videos on YT are not too good.

If that was my car and the arms were rotted, I would use new USA arms, not the cheap imported ones- there is a difference. Now if the bearings are original or just unknown, I would replace them and yes, you're now into a complete rebuild which is really the way to go. If you can do the work all the better, you save on labor, you save on shipping crates, shipping and what most don't get when they ship out arms- upcharges since the quoted prices are just the common parts.

I would set the bearings up for -0- lateral play, this is not preloading them, but it is also not getting to 002" endplay and calling them good. I would dial in the rotors under 003" and lock them in, with more than using lug nuts. The end result is the best out there. You will need access to a surface grinder to get to -0- lateral play. The common shim kits come in 003" increments, not close enough to dial them in. Close enough to get to the spec of 001-008" if that is what you want - go for it but at 003" endplay you can move the axle in/out by hand.

You can select from many cookie-cutter built units sold today, they are ok not the best. Good luck

kodpkd

I ordered the new, USA made arms, Timken bearings, seals with the installation tools. Another project so I can beat my head against the wall.

Mr D.

If you're going that deep into the trailing arms due to corrosion you might as well do it right and rebuild them.

75blackray

I'm currently doing the same thing, as I prepare to install my new suspension, offset trailing arms, and 6 link. The trailing arms were the worst part of removing every moving part behind the trans, and I didn't even have to cut my bolts. I am just going to send my hub assemblies off to be rebuilt, because I don't want to do that job again anytime soon.

Torqued Off

My suggestion is you get Gary Ramadei to rebuild your trailing arms......it is well worth it.

spdrcr29

Can you come rebuild my arms then if it only takes you an hour per side? Lol 😬

derekderek

kodpkd. are you sure you are never gonna want to go bigger with the rear tires? an offset arm is about the price of a standard arm.

Fly skids up!

Bring them! PM me.

kodpkd

I thought about that. I don't think I would ever go that route.