MotorHead

I found that I a lot of gas in my oil. About the same level as the oil itself ( 3-4 quarts ). I do not know what to do about this. I think it leaked out from the fuel pump. I am looking for any ideas or advice as to how to fix this, I have already drained the oil and cut the filter top off and there is metal in the pleats. I don't want to damage the engine anymore as it was a once in a lifetime high dollar build.

Any suggestions or opinions is greatly appreciated along with persons this has happened to and what there final solution was.

djquik1

3-4 quarts of fuel in your engine? That does not sound good.

Any driveability issues prior? what gave you the hint something was going on? I assume carb? Have you pulled it to see if there was raw fuel in the intake?

Aquarian

My Built 350 had the same issue with about an hour on the engine. , leaking down from the holly...drained all the oil out replaced with a regular 10w-30 and filter to flush. took out the distributor to access the oil pump and ran it with the electric drill and the priming tool for about 15 min, let it sit and did it again. drained oil and filter and replaced with new royal purple break in oil and filter. primed and put everything back together...so far so good. however I didn't have anyy metal shavings in the filter

P>S> had Holly rebuilt to fix issue

MotorHead

Way too much to be coming from the carb as it has been sitting all winter. Last year it was not running that good when I put it away. This spring I started it and huge cloud of white smoke came out of the tailpipes. Thought it was engine storage stuff but after 3+ minutes it never cleard up. Looked at the dipstick and it was at twice the full level.

ignatz

A full tank of gas sitting in the sun can push its way past the needle valves in your carburetor. Happened to me but since my motor went into hydraulic lock, I wasn't able to run the motor before I figured out the problem. After that experience I never completely fill the tank. I believed I had a pressure release pinhole in my gas cap. I certainly do now.

Good luck, very sorry to hear about your plight.

resdoggie

I would be looking at the fuel pump for a diaphragm leak. For that amount of gas, it looks like a gravity feed from gas tank through fuel pump into the crankcase.

derekderek

i would also be pulling the pan and checking all 13 bearings. you are talking 3 minutes at idle? you may be good. 50/50 gas-oil mix probly good enough to provide lubrication at idle. 5000 rpm full throttle you need a lot more lubrication than no-load 1100 rpm...

MotorHead

I was worried at the end of last year that I could have trash in my tank. So I got a jerry can and bundgy corded it to the bottom of my hood, well above the carb. I didn't leave it there for too long but I am beginning to think that could be the problem. Now whatever caused it ( I got a new fuel pump ) I have to come up with some plan how to fix it.

I already thought about buying some cheap oil and running that through the engine via the distributor hole and spinning the oil pump til I see oil in the upper end.

MotorHead

Yes 3 minutes and I had 40psi of oil pressure which is ususally 60+

derekderek

c3. every piece of rubber fluid passes through...now fuel pump diaphragm is added to T-top seals. do you have an old distributor? they make real good oil primers. drive out the pin and pop off the gear. pull of the rotor and chuck it in a drill. the dist housing is blocking another passage it is supposed to block too.

doorgunner

Can you post pics of the metal flakes......close-up and also about 12" from the camera.

"I already thought about buying some cheap oil and running that through the engine via the distributor hole and spinning the oil pump til I see oil in the upper end."

You might want to do what other members suggested...remove the oil pan/clean it/ and save the metal particles....
while you are at it---disassemble the oil pump to see how much metal is in it (low oil pressure and no sense in pumping metal flakes through the oil passages)

derekderek

40 psi at idle. half gas and half oil. so 20 psi of oil...and gas is still an incompressible liquid. in fact, it is really really light oil! if running oil thru to throw away, put in 1 quart. spin oil pump. no pressure? add a little more. no sense trashing 4 or 5 quarts in 1 shot if you can do 3 shots with the same amount... light oil too. 0w 20 or something.

bluthundr

I'm guessing you wiped some of the coating off your bearings and that was the metal you see. That means your bearing tolerances have increased slightly as a result. What weight oil were you running before? If it were me, and if I was running say 10w-30 I would drain the oil, switch to 10w-40, then spin the oil pump with a priming tool and see what kind of pressure you get. If you are just spinning the oil pump with a drill you are not going to hurt the mains any more during the test as the crank won't be turning.

HeadsU.P.

Ah, White Smoke? Post # 4.

You sure that's gas in the pan? White smoke is coolant burning.
Check the overflow tank level and Rad.

7t9l82

If you pull the pan and clean it out, pull a main cap and check the cylinder bores from below if everything looks ok I'd fill it with some cheap oil prime it flush it out refill with oil and prime it again. Hopefully everything is ok.
Good luck.
Years ago and I mean years ago. I pulled the main bearings one at a time and cleaned them with lacquer thinner put assembly lube on the bearing surface and did the same to the rods. It's alot of work and that may be extreme. But you can figure it out better when you know more

resdoggie

You had lubrication at no load for 3 minutes. Drain your oil pan and check for metal flakes. If none and I suspect that will be the case, refill with oil and check for 60 psi like you had before and if there are any new noises. If not, test drive. If there is anti-freeze, it will come out of the oil pan first, undiluted.

RU7376vettes

My first car a 1953 Chevrolet had the fuel pump diaphragm rupture and the overflow hole was plugged and filled the crankcase with gas/oil. I didn't find out until after I had driven it on a short trip. I wiped out every bearing in the engine. I agree with earlier post to pull pan and inspect bearings and clearances. Use Plastigage to check clearances if bearing surfaces are good. Better safe than sorry. Why take a chance, it isn't worth it.. JMHO

7T1vette

Yep. You can pull the oil pan and check individual bearing caps [one-at-a-time], then re-install if OK. If no real damage, button it up and put in fresh oil and filter. If you are certain that it's fuel in the oil (it will smell like gasoline), you need to test output of the fuel pump before putting it back in service. Replace it or rebuild it before firing engine again.

Jebbysan

Pull the pan and remove a couple of main and rod caps. What do they look like? What does the crank look like? This is going to be the tell to let you know to proceed any further......it will also allow you to clean the pan, remove the oil pump and plate to clean it...etc.....shine a light up in the bores to look for scoring from cylinder wash....
Don't waste time running oil through it while crossing your fingers.......pull the pan and know for sure how to proceed.
Almost a gallon of gas is a lot......I doubt highly that it came from the carb.....reason is that if it came out of the boosters it would have to be running and it would burn most of it and wash the cylinders.....it would have to be under pressure and the needle stuck open to overflow it.....for a long *** time. My money is on the fuel pump.....pull and inspect the diaphragm....if you see something in there, then you are done playing forensics and can move on with confidence.

Jebby

derekderek

no. go 1 farther. check all 5 mains. replace all 8 rod bearings. this was a new motor, but not built by gm. there will be no ,0002 and .0004 bearings. they will be standard or .010. did somebody local build the engine or an engine store like blueprint? and i think PO said he already threw the fuel pump as far as he could...