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I have my gauge cluster out for some TLC and cleaning so I figure this is a good time for an upgrade to LED bulbs. All the interior lights are currently working so no issues there. I do not want to go through the trouble of doing this and be dealing with flickering bulbs or pieces of junk a few weeks after all this is put back together. Cost is not an issue. I've searched the forum and read a few people who have ordered from Superbrightleds with OK results. Amazon of course has a never ending supply of 1895 LED bulbs but I am weary of the quality so here are my questions;
1. Do you guys have recommendations of a dealer or manufacture that you have had good luck with in regards to quality of the bulbs?
2. For my application in the gauge cluster, should the color chosen be a warm light (2700k) or more of a white light (6100k)?
These are the ones I used....so far no problems.
194 LED Bulb - 1 LED - Miniature Wedge Base - Cool White 120 Degree
Part Number: 194-W-120 from Superbrightleds. They are not super bright but brighter than my stock bulbs.
I did make the mistake of replacing the alternator light in the gauge cluster... which later found out you can't.
Can't remember who (posted) but doing so your alt. will not charge. I did replace that one and sure enough Alt. light was on.
If you do a search there are threads with pictures of members cars that switched.
LED's can have 'issues', like bayonet base not dimensionally the same as stock US bulbs; polarity problems; LED's will not dim properly with C3 headlamp switch; etc.
You can work all those bugs out or just install new incandescent bulbs which will last 10+ years.
I trust you ordered the LEDs that are not POLARITY Sensitive. They cost more, but once they are installed, you are finished. On three cars, had three LEDs that failed after a few years. They are sure brighter, but to me more importantly, WAY LESS Heat. I had the original incandescent bulbs burn the parking/turn signal plastic lens on my 2001 Camaro (they stay on all the time), after 20 years you can’t complain, except if you need to buy new lens, then your are SOL! Same thing on a Pontiac Third Brake Light, the OEM is a Halogen Bulb, even Bubba would know that the plastic would melt after a few years, especially on a manual car, where the brake is applied whenever the car is stopped. I have changed to LEDs on all exterior lights, except where the wiring is designed to “alternate” the turn signal and side markers (didn’t want to start cutting and adding new wires).
I used the cheapest leds I could find on ebay 7 years ago.. non dimmable polarity sensitive (test them prior to reassembling dash if you use them) no issues yet and none have failed. They are bright. YMMV when it comes to the marker lights on these cars.. leds are more involved to swap out but not when it comes to the interior lights. My headlights are leds too.. They draw less current than the old dim stock lights.
Last edited by augiedoggy; 05-31-2021 at 11:50 AM.
I just switched all of my dash lights in my 74 to LEDs a little over a year ago. I got them from super bright LEDs and am very happy with them. They are not dimmable, but it doesn't bother me. Everything also fit without modifications and the bulbs worked with the factory sockets. The bulbs I used were the BA9s 6500K color temp
Last edited by Lamouree351; 06-01-2021 at 04:30 PM.
I just switched all of my dash lights in my 74 to LEDs a little over a year ago. I got them from super bright LEDs and am very happy with them. They are not dimmable, but it doesn't bother me. Everything also fit without modifications and the bulbs worked with the factory sockets. The bulbs I used were the BA9s 6500K color temp
To make the dash lights dimmable- simply leave one incandescent bulb in the cluster-
Superbrite company has quality stuff- never had any issues with them.
If you order by midnight they have a 15% off use code "MEMDAY21"
AND here's the best way ( besides LEDs ) to upgrade your dash lights
Look at what fellow member "Greg" did - works on pre 77 years.. A great idea as the ground connection isn't left to a spring loaded connector where the surface can corrode/come loose.
Unless someone have altered your stock wiring and reversed the polarity of it, your dash lights should be plug and play (My 74 was) without paying 4 to 6 times more per bulb for non polarity sensitive bulbs and the additional circuity (and possible failure point) thats needed for that feature.
Last edited by augiedoggy; 06-01-2021 at 08:19 PM.
All of the corvette’s lights could be brighter, but not the dash lights. Bright dash lights compromise your night vision; not a performance upgrade. The incandescent bulbs get dim way before they burn out. New high quality incandescents (GE or Sylvania) are bright enough to need to use the dimmer for optimal night vision. To see best at night you want the dash just bright enough to read the gauges. Green is the best color to preserve night vision; has to do with activation of rods vs cones with low light levels.
All of the corvette’s lights could be brighter, but not the dash lights. Bright dash lights compromise your night vision; not a performance upgrade. The incandescent bulbs get dim way before they burn out. New high quality incandescents (GE or Sylvania) are bright enough to need to use the dimmer for optimal night vision. To see best at night you want the dash just bright enough to read the gauges. Green is the best color to preserve night vision; has to do with activation of rods vs cones with low light levels.
IIRC- red is best for preserving night vision- as it breaks down rhodopsin ( insensitive to the longer wavelength of red) more slowly than green- but green light penetrates a little better, and shows more detail.
I'm using a different dimmer (and light switch) so I have complete control of the LEDs.
IIRC- red is best for preserving night vision- as it breaks down rhodopsin ( insensitive to the longer wavelength of red) more slowly than green- but green light penetrates a little better, and shows more detail.
I'm using a different dimmer (and light switch) so I have complete control of the LEDs.
I’ve looked at several charts of red and green light sensitivity of rods and cones. The biggest difference is clearly at 500nm. For max night vision you are using rods only; they perceive colors as black and white. As soon as you perceive color cones are being activated and your night vision decreases. The cones are less sensitive to green light at very low light levels. That said you have re-adapt after squinting at headlights or traffic lights. If you’re cruising down the boulevard amongst neon lights you might as well shine bright as well.
Not sure how much you are willing to modify but here's my post for installing strip lighting. Works like a dream, it's dimmable (not that I dim it), and you can pick from your choices of colors:
Update; I decided on 6000k LED bulbs for all of the gauges, door ajar, headlamps, and windshield washer. Huge improvement in clarity and heat over the incandescent lights. These are definitely not too bright and can also be dimmed if desired. Had a few issues with a couple of the single wire light bulb sockets (clips falling out) but just put a dab of epoxy on the mounting tabs and it worked like a charm. Thank you to Richard454 for giving me another option if I choose to get rid of the single wire sockets. Naturally, longevity of the bulbs is not tested yet so I will update this thread again if there are issues.
Thank you again to all for your thoughts and advice.
Last edited by PurePearl32; 06-12-2021 at 06:13 PM.
05-30-2021, 04:51 AM
74 Gauge Cluster LED Bulb Questions
