How to test turn signal mechanism
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
How to test turn signal mechanism
So I have an electrical problem on my 69. No brake light on pass rear and no turn signal either. Only have the low bulb illuminated. I have checked the harness and bulb and all grounds of course. My meter tells me that contact has no juice. I am told this is common if your blinker mechanism is broken. So I have the wheel off and all the guts exposed. Before I replace the mechanism is there a way to tell for sure this is the problem?
#2
Burning Brakes
I'd probably get a replacement TS switch, then unplug the original at the long harmonica plug. Plug the new one into the harmonica plug and work the switch by hand while it's off the column and free. You'll have to check your wiring diagram to see if some part on the switch has to be grounded to work while off the steering column. Good luck with this.
Duane
Duane
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
I do have very good "clicks" both ways, and it does cancel properly. One thing I see is a lot of grease on the mechanism. Doesn't look like dielectric just regular bearing grease
#4
Melting Slicks
You could check the brake switch on the brake pedal first. It could be bad or out of adjustment, easy. I just had mine fail.
You could have 2 failures. Check to see if there are nonoriginal splices at your rear lights. I had a light that wouldn't go on. There was a splice and electrical tape. Even though the wires were twisted around each other, they weren't making contact.
Do not use dielectric grease on electrical contacts,,,, it doesn't conduct electricity.
You could have 2 failures. Check to see if there are nonoriginal splices at your rear lights. I had a light that wouldn't go on. There was a splice and electrical tape. Even though the wires were twisted around each other, they weren't making contact.
Do not use dielectric grease on electrical contacts,,,, it doesn't conduct electricity.
Last edited by kodpkd; 04-19-2021 at 10:04 PM.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Brake switch is good - I have brake light on driver side.
so can I probe the Dark green wire at base of column? That is the pass side brake light I think
so can I probe the Dark green wire at base of column? That is the pass side brake light I think
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Ok this is what my meter probing tells me
1. Dark green wire at rear harness for right tail light shows no power at anytime or function. Left tail light is all working properly..
2. Dark green wire at the signal switch shows no power at key on or key off. 12 V at brake pedal depressed and 12 V at left turn signal but is constant (even though the lights are blinking properly)
3. Same wire has no power at right turn signal.
4. Blinker mechanism under the dash works fine on left turn signal but nothing on right signal.
So does this sound like a faulty signal mechanism?
1. Dark green wire at rear harness for right tail light shows no power at anytime or function. Left tail light is all working properly..
2. Dark green wire at the signal switch shows no power at key on or key off. 12 V at brake pedal depressed and 12 V at left turn signal but is constant (even though the lights are blinking properly)
3. Same wire has no power at right turn signal.
4. Blinker mechanism under the dash works fine on left turn signal but nothing on right signal.
So does this sound like a faulty signal mechanism?
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
Posts: 8,485
Received 3,222 Likes
on
1,733 Posts
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
What happens when you turn on your hazards?
The rear and front outs for the turn signals are completely isolated.
The rear and front outs for the turn signals are completely isolated.
Last edited by Richard454; 04-22-2021 at 10:45 PM. Reason: add pic
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
Wait a minute I might be smoking crack. So if my dark green wire leaving the turn signal switch EVER has 12 V and my pass rear brake light isn't illuminated, I must have a break in the green wire somewhere along the way. So what is the harness routing from the brake pedal area to the light socket?
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Fernandina Beach FL
Posts: 8,485
Received 3,222 Likes
on
1,733 Posts
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
Before you -
I'd look at the 12 pin connector at the top /side of your fusebox-
Runs to the rear of your car. Disconnect it- and it isolates the rear lights from the car- the best way to really test the rear lights - Also eliminating taking apart stuff randomly.
Make a 12volt 'test' wire- simply a wire with fuse from the battery to test a circuit. see pic- I used heat shrink- electrical tape will work- or you can get a wire with a fuse holder at the auto-parts store
You can put power on the wires and test each circuit-
I'd look at the 12 pin connector at the top /side of your fusebox-
Runs to the rear of your car. Disconnect it- and it isolates the rear lights from the car- the best way to really test the rear lights - Also eliminating taking apart stuff randomly.
Make a 12volt 'test' wire- simply a wire with fuse from the battery to test a circuit. see pic- I used heat shrink- electrical tape will work- or you can get a wire with a fuse holder at the auto-parts store
You can put power on the wires and test each circuit-
The following 2 users liked this post by Richard454:
73sbvert (04-26-2021),
platinummaker (04-23-2021)
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Looks like I wasted everyone's time.
Was chasing my tail - after RECHECKING stuff with my meter all of a sudden I DO have correct readings at the bulb sockets. Even with clean shiny terminals and such, I was getting dead readings that are now the opposite. And though the harness had the proper ground wire coming from the backup housing, and the connection good solid and clean, it just wasn't giving a ground. When I jumper grounded the housing all works proper. Thanks for the help
Was chasing my tail - after RECHECKING stuff with my meter all of a sudden I DO have correct readings at the bulb sockets. Even with clean shiny terminals and such, I was getting dead readings that are now the opposite. And though the harness had the proper ground wire coming from the backup housing, and the connection good solid and clean, it just wasn't giving a ground. When I jumper grounded the housing all works proper. Thanks for the help