brassplyer

Running stock rims and rotors is there a "better than OEM" brake caliper and also a "lots more money but really worth it" brake caliper?

Or do you have to go to a larger wheel and a larger rotor to realize significantly improved braking?

Dynra Rockets

The factory brakes are great. First make sure your braking system is in good working order(no leaks, MC to spec, etc). If still not satisfied with stock brakes then try a better pad.

Next step up from stock calipers are Wilwood aluminum bolt-in replacements, you wont improve braking much but are substantially lighter and less prone to leaking.

also, make sure to spend some time searching in this forum as this topic is discussed a lot.

Factoid

The stock brakes are very capable when properly set up and usually problem free, although you will hear many stories of leaks and problems (I won’t go there).

To answer your question, the “best” improvement requires larger rotors that then provide better braking leverage but also larger diameter wheels. If you want to keep your current wheels and improve braking (the better vs. best option), ensure all your calipers are sound, there are no leaks, you have a firm pedal, the rotors are true and you have fresh brake fluid. Then look at upgraded brake pads that offer the characteristics you consider important. These include depending on your perspective - fade resistance, faster stopping, low wear, low dust, cold vs. hot performance and remember that it is always a trade off, you can’t have all of these things!

69427

Keep your stock calipers. They do a great job already. Unless you're going to spend time and money reducing vehicle weight or adding stickier tires, the expensive bling brakes won't stop your car any quicker than what you've got now.

TedH

Unless you are dropping serious $$$ to autocross/road race (as in updating the entire suspension and brake package), your best $$$ is spent replacing your aged (I assume they are leaking) calipers with rebuilt units and top shelf brake pads and a good set of fresh rotors.

When I reconditioned the entire suspension on my vette, I went with the best rubber bushing front OEM replacement suspension kit I could get. It may have been from Vette Brakes (out of business). It was a TRW kit. High quality. I then moved to the rear trailing arm assembles (Van Steel rebuilt), half shafts (Van Steel) and poly adjustable strut rods (VB&P). Also, fresh tires and good KYB gas charged shock absorbers. I found that with all this, I had no worries and the car handled GREAT. I still have the gymkana rear spring and (original) front coil springs.

Mr D.

Unless your needing to stop or brake in some fashion other than normal driving than the stock brakes work just fine. I use off the shelf remans and never had a problem.

gkull

Stainless steel ORinged stock brakes. Even with new stainless lines, braided steel, 600 degree motul fluid, the best carbon metallic pads.

At some point over 100 mph they'll not even slow you down.

At some point after repeated braking you end up with a severe pucker factor

kodpkd

Just be careful, if you spend the money to get racing this, and racing that, high temp racing pads, ETC, and then putts around town, you wont be happy.

69427

Not an issue. The OP's car isn't going to spend any time on a road course.

Kerschmolar

Running stock rims and rotors, nothing will stop you any quicker. I have 42 year old OEM calipers on one of my 78’s and they stop as well as the Wilwoods I put on the other 78. The difference is felt in cornering over bumps, as the aluminum calipers save weight right were it counts. But, I love going around curves very fast, so the car with the Wilwoods also got the suspension lowered and stiffened. Depends on your driving style. Minor changes to the brakes won’t make nearly the difference as minor changes with the suspension and tires.

brassplyer

I actually don't have any particular complaints about the stock brakes at this point but wondered what else there is and whether it's worth upgrading.

docohm

Read this thread for more info:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-worth-it.html

gkull

I'm talking local road driving. Freeway high speed and coming down off a mountain.

Mountain road just filled the car with burning brakes smell

Rescue Rogers

I raced my car a little and the organic pads turned into a brick after they cooled down. Avoid those. THe best things I ever did was to

1. replace the original lip seals, about $80 for the parts an da days worth of labor and caliper paint.
2. use Hawk pads. I grabbed the blue pads. they are dusty but they grab like a rottweiler on a bad mans leg. Do a litle research on different pads and you will be super happy.
3. Make sure that if you ever replace your master cylinder that its for 4 wheel disc brakes and that it matches your application whether its maunal or power. Many issues here on people getting the wrong parts

this tells you about the different compounds color coded for ease
https://www.hawkperformance.com/compounds/street
https://www.hawkperformance.com/street
these are the corvette models
https://www.hawkperformance.com/part...el=80862&note=

leigh1322

The rather expensive ($100) Hawk and Carbotech and Performance Friction pads really do stop better. They grab like 20-25% stronger, plus they can get much hotter than stock ones before they fade. They work pretty good cold on the street too. They are not race pads. I would call them high performance street pads or autocross pads. You will have to get the rotors almost red hot before they'll fade, IIRC over 1000 degrees.

This is one case where you really do get what you pay for.

kodpkd

Pretty good,,, on the street isn't what most people are looking for. 90% of people just drive normal street driving without getting there pads hot. I found that a normal organic or semi metallic work the best. I have a set of Hawk HPS pads and took them off.

leigh1322

So I ran similar to those on my 70 Z28 and loved them.
What did you not like about them on a 4 wheel disc Vette?
Dusty?
Cold temps?
etc...

kodpkd

Driving around town where they don't have a chance to heat up, they didn't seem to have all that much stopping power.

terrys6t8roadster

The only thing I dislike about the blue Hawk pads is the dust. Cold braking is ok , just normal driving they warm up and they wear like iron. T

leigh1322

Yes those kinds of pads can get kind of testy below 35 degrees. Sometimes even a little warmer.

Then there is the dust! Ugh!

I had some auotocross special extra high friction pads back in the day. Worked GREAT.... stopped like a boat anchor.......BUT the DUST!!
Turned my wheels solid BLACK in 2 DAYS!