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So on my last thread we had a lot of help to determine the source of my parasitic draw and why my battery was draining.
After solving the problem and coming to the conclusion that I really need to replace my front lamp harness and engine harness. I decided to go with the front lamp harness first due to the fact that the wire to my alternator was just not useable, like at all. Alternator wire.. The harness condition. The failed attempt on fixing it.
My car has 0 power now no headlights, no voltage, no gauges, nothing. It won’t even try and turn over so my question is if I replace this harness, run all the wires back into place and finally connect the red wire to the alternator, will it have power? Better yet if that wire is cut off to the alternator will the car even hold electricity?
my Harness comes tomorrow and I’m just trying to see what’s going to happen. The top red wire is the one I’m referring to and that is cut off on my car (this is not my alternator)
When you pulled off apart this main harness it cuts off all power to the dash and that why it wont start or things do not work.
disconnect you battery when doing this,you have major wiring problems, I would trace that cut off alt wire before you install the new harness to find out why it was cut.
also the red wire to your alt looks to small.
you do not want to plug in your new harness and burn up your car.
Your getting way ahead of your Skis here.
We can agree both your engine and forward lamp harnesses show signs of POOR workmanship from previous attempts of repairs over the years.
If you haven't started removing the old harness yet I "suggest" get a magic marker, a note book and some type of masking tape.
As you remove each wire connector wrap it with a little tape and leave a flag sticking out.
Number the flag clearly, then add that number in your note book with a short description of where it connected to.
Once you have removed the complete old harness stretch it out and then lay your new harness alongside it just for the visual and, yea that connector went to the brake proportioning switch, yea that connector went to the oil pressure switch etc....
As you work your way towards the front of the car make sure you take caution with any exposed wires in your NEW harness as you not drag the wires across any sharp surfaces.
I could be wrong here but I work on equipment every day with connectors like that. And the pins can be removed, replaced or have new wires soldered or crimped to them without changing the whole wiring harness which would make the work involved here tremendously easier. Usually there a release tab on the connector pin itself you can push on with a small pointed object such as a jewelers screw driver which will unlock the connector pin and allow you to slid it out in the direction that the wire is attached to it. from the looks of your harness you can release the pin locking tab from the front recessed in the plastic face where the pins protrude.
obviously the following link is related to different types of connectors but it should give you an idea what im talking about here.
I could be wrong here but I work on equipment every day with connectors like that. And the pins can be removed, replaced or have new wires soldered or crimped to them without changing the whole wiring harness which would make the work involved here tremendously easier. Usually there a release tab on the connector pin itself you can push on with a small pointed object such as a jewelers screw driver which will unlock the connector pin and allow you to slid it out in the direction that the wire is attached to it. from the looks of your harness you can release the pin locking tab from the front recessed in the plastic face where the pins protrude.
obviously the following link is related to different types of connectors but it should give you an idea what im talking about here.
I would have sent the OP in that direction if I thought it was the safest and only wiring problem.
You are correct, replacement Male & F/M series 56 terminals are easy to come by.
I would have sent the OP in that direction if I thought it was the safest and only wiring problem.
You are correct, replacement Male & F/M series 56 terminals are easy to come by.
I DID IT! THANKS TO ALL YOUR HELP! The new harness was a success! Car starts fine, no drainage when I turn it off either! Although my gauges don’t work I’m sure I didn’t plug something in? Not sure.. when I rev my car the voltage moves a tad bit, the ENG light comes on and the oil pressure gauge moves but no fuel or temp but I didn’t attach the temp chord I’m just confused on the fuel and voltage. Gutted New harness Yummy
I DID IT! THANKS TO ALL YOUR HELP! The new harness was a success! Car starts fine, no drainage when I turn it off either! Although my gauges don’t work I’m sure I didn’t plug something in? Not sure.. when I rev my car the voltage moves a tad bit, the ENG light comes on and the oil pressure gauge moves but no fuel or temp but I didn’t attach the temp chord I’m just confused on the fuel and voltage. Gutted New harness Yummy
YEA!!!
Check your gauges fuse.
On your temp sensor connector, is it the same style connector your old harness had?
and no, no the temperature sensor wire is not the same connector unfortunately but I can just take off the plastic housing around the wire right?
Does your temp sender look like left or right?
Both will except the style you have on your new harness without any changes to the new harness.
Your new harness sensor wire connector has a slot cut in it to slide over the pin tip of the left sensor above. Both the sensors above will except a series 56 connector. The series 56 connector is 1/4"
Does your temp sender look like left or right?
Both will except the style you have on your new harness without any changes to the new harness.
Your new harness sensor wire connector has a slot cut in it to slide over the pin tip of the left sensor above. Both the sensors above will except a series 56 connector. The series 56 connector is 1/4"
Man you sure are an expert on these things huh? I didn’t even notice a slit in the plastic! I’ll get to connecting that before I solve the gauge problem so I can see if it is a blown fuse. Still not home from work yet.. 3 more hours and I’ll send the wiring picture!
I see on your green temp wire you also have some of that black sheathing over that wire.
Make sure that is slid up to the plastic connector.
You have headers I think and it is going to get real hot in that area.
That black sheathing will help protect the wire from some of that heat.
I see on your green temp wire you also have some of that black sheathing over that wire.
Make sure that is slid up to the plastic connector.
You have headers I think and it is going to get real hot in that area.
That black sheathing will help protect the wire from some of that heat.
Yeah, got a pair of rusty long tube headers :/ but I will also get that done when I get home.
I see on your green temp wire you also have some of that black sheathing over that wire.
Make sure that is slid up to the plastic connector.
You have headers I think and it is going to get real hot in that area.
That black sheathing will help protect the wire from some of that heat.
New connections
Not working gauges they were fine before I changed out the harness, the fuse is good any ideas? The ENG light only comes on after I rev the car btw..
Also no slit on the back or front of the plastic
Also.. I don’t know what this affects but I put 2 grounds from the harness where only 1 ground is supposed to go but that’s because when I was disconnecting the old harness, the crew broke off the ground and I was forced to move to a different ground..
Last edited by ChristineTheVette; 03-06-2021 at 09:49 AM.
On that connector your holding, you can remove the housing by using a VERY small screwdriver pressing the little locking tab in, that tab locks the wire in the connector so it wont pull out. Then cut the slot on the same side showing. use a small round file or dremel tool if you have something like that. The slot only need to be wide enough to span that pin on the switch. and the slot depth is only 3/8" so not that deep.
TAB:
Take a photo of where the big red wire is connected the one circled
2 Grounds OK
Move your spark plug wire under the exhaust, not laying on top of it
You have ignition, so when you turn the key to ON or START you should have power to the gauges fuse and to your gauges.
There’s a red plug that goes into “ACCY.” I’ll check to see if it’s in all the way but as for the plastic on the wire That ain’t happening.. I can’t cut this.
I said small round file or a dremel tool, not $.298 blade breaking fly in your eye box cutter. That aint gonna cut it..lol
Anyways, thanks for the photos...
Take your test light and test both sides of your gauges fuse with ignition on.
IF you don't have voltage going back to the alternator (Red & Brown wires) white plug the voltage regulator will not turn on. It's called "exciting the regulator"
There’s a red plug that goes into “ACCY.” I’ll check to see if it’s in all the way but as for the plastic on the wire That ain’t happening.. I can’t cut this.
This is from the Engine harness side, what is it for? Is it unplugged from something? This was unplugged, what is it? It was unplugged from under the distributor but is now plugged in I’ve never knew what this did. GEN light still comes on after I rev the car.. water temp gauge works now. So does the fuel but my volts are just not moving. What should I do? (My alternator belt is a tad loose could that be the problem?)
03-04-2021, 08:14 PM
Wiring question (alternator and power)
they were fine before I changed out the harness, the fuse is good any ideas? The ENG light only comes on after I rev the car btw..
