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Which new heads to go with?

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Old 01-24-2021, 11:22 PM
  #41  
REELAV8R
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That's a casting number. What you want is the number from the number pad on the right side of the motor.

All that number tells you is this:14016379 Small Block V8 1977-1979 350, 2 bolt or 4 bolt

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/

Old 01-24-2021, 11:30 PM
  #42  
Jd21476
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When you say the number pad on the right side on the motor, is that the pad near the front of the heads on the right? If so, this block does not have it and I researched it and found a few posts of others with the same block and no number pad.
Old 01-25-2021, 12:31 AM
  #43  
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One plus of the Dart brand is they usually have plenty of material for the guy that wants to port them.
WHy their sizing can be way off is beyond me. Mine were 15cc larger than advertised.
Thier latest head, which the chinese heads are copies of are pretty decent.
Old 01-25-2021, 09:13 AM
  #44  
Jebbysan
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Hard to say for a die hard Dart guy I bet. Good to hear someone else echo my opinion on those SHP's though.
Seems to me that brand loyalty will always meet with disappointment eventually . Got to go with what is good regardless of the brand. However a good known brand has a better chance of success vs an unknown one or one that is known to be of questionable quality.
The only reason I am Dart crazy is that our shop years ago was 10 miles away......I spent a lot of time there. Called them most everyday.....248-362-1188 LOL!
When they invited me over to look at the new Wet Flow Pro-1 heads in 07.......I was impressed. The heads made 20 more horspower and torque over the previous series and there was zero increases in flow.....(well, the low lift number were a little better...). I bolted my first set on a 37' Business Coupe along with a 292H Magnum Cam, two 450 Holley's on a Weiand Tunnel ram on a bone stock 1969 350 short block and that car was silly......easy 12 second car.....3000 converter and 3.73 gears.
So I have spec'd Dart heads for these engines for a long time......BUT, when the SHP came out, I ordered a pair direct from Dart and had them shipped to Texas.....
Generally I order heads assembled and pull them apart after I get them.....I really don't trust anyone. I am not sure who assembled these SHP heads but the guides were too tight and the installed heights were all over the place which means the valve job was suspect....so they went back and I had the customer pop for Pro 1's for an extra $300.....I ordered these un-assembled and they were perfect. I am not sure what they are doing up there but I am sure one way they are saving money is the help.....
Oh well.....soon here I will be taking apart a pair of the new Trick Flow 175cc "Double Hump" heads....I will report my findings in a build thread.....stay tuned.

Jebby
Old 01-25-2021, 09:18 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jd21476
When you say the number pad on the right side on the motor, is that the pad near the front of the heads on the right? If so, this block does not have it and I researched it and found a few posts of others with the same block and no number pad.
In 35 years of messing with small blocks, I have never seen a GM block without a stamp pad on the front.
Pull a valve cover.....L-82 had guide plates, L-48 did not......if it doesn't, then it is safe to assume it is a low-po 180 horse or so unit with cast dish pistons.

Jebby
Old 01-25-2021, 09:36 AM
  #46  
HeadsU.P.
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Or could be a L48 w/ L82 heads.

I think the O.P. means, there is not any numbers on the pad. Which almost always indicates the block has been decked.
Who knows?
Old 01-25-2021, 09:41 AM
  #47  
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Who knows what coulda happened to an engine over this many yrs? In the long run does it matter that much?
Old 01-25-2021, 12:10 PM
  #48  
REELAV8R
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Well just gonna have to pull the heads when your ready. Dish pistons =L-48 flat top pistons =L-82.

if your lucky that is. As cv67 says since it appears it’s not even a stock block anything could have been done.

in either case flat top pistons are much better than the dish and can give you a true quench zone. The open dish pistons have no actual squish pad. D-dish pistons do so they would be all right too.
Old 01-25-2021, 02:28 PM
  #49  
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AFR's!!!!

Another vote for AFRs could and were used right out of the box, sort of...8 years ago now and ZERO issues.

Just for insurance I had my expert builder who did the lower end machine work and build, despite him telling me he had never had an issue with AFR's, check my AFR heads AND guess what? They were perfect right out of the box back in 2013/14...........still today....

Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-25-2021 at 03:08 PM.
Old 01-25-2021, 03:35 PM
  #50  
lionelhutz
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Get a <$50 bore scope camera from Amazon or Ebay and take a look at the pistons then you'll know.

Sticking with 64cc would be my suggestion so you can re-use them later when you build another engine or bore and re-piston the one you have.
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Old 01-25-2021, 04:53 PM
  #51  
Eric P
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Probably been decked , my black L82 must a had a touch up on the deck at one time as the numbers are real hard to read , I can make out about half of them once we got the heads off , paint and sand off and they stick out a little better
Old 01-25-2021, 08:09 PM
  #52  
resdoggie
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Piece of paper, lead pencil.............
Old 01-26-2021, 02:38 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
Edelbrock E-Tec are under rated heads that often get ignored when discussing decent heads even though they shouldn't be. They require a Vortec style intake.
Originally Posted by Jd21476
How can I tell if its an L48 or L82?
Console plate.shifter area
Old 01-26-2021, 02:43 PM
  #54  
Jd21476
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‘68s dont have the console shifter plaque
Old 01-26-2021, 04:34 PM
  #55  
resdoggie
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Originally Posted by Jd21476
I just pulled my valve covers off my car to see which heads it has. The Chevy 350 thats in it makes almost no HP and its embarrassing. I realized now that the heads I have, GM 462624, are terrible heads and have a 76cc chamber. I dont know what cam I am running or anything else other than the car has a '78 Chevy 350 and the Muncie 4 speed. If I change the heads will I get more power or am I wasting money without doign a complete rebuild?
Without tearing down that engine and taking measurements, you don't know what you have. Has it been bored? Cam? Stroke? Pistons? Rods?

Last edited by resdoggie; 01-26-2021 at 04:36 PM.



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