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1982 Crossfire to FiTech Swap

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Old 11-14-2020, 09:00 PM
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Christopher Hartkopf
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Default 1982 Crossfire to FiTech Swap

I'm currently working on swapping from the stock crossfire system to a FiTech system. The only thing I havent really tackled is fuel. I need to figure out the best way to connect the stock fuel lines to the fitech system, which I can do with some flexible hose, but I don't know what fittings to use. I have never worked on a vehicle fuel system before (unless you count HMMWVs and HEMTTs) and I can't figure out what the stock fitting sizes are going into the crossfire throttle bodies. If someone could link directly to a fitting that would adapt from the stock fitting, to a 3/8 barb and clamp style hose that would be great.
Old 11-15-2020, 09:12 AM
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Old 11-17-2020, 09:08 AM
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trevorhowe1212
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Working through an efi conversion on my 80 now. I'm not exactly sure how the 82's are set up or whether the method you are proposing is the best way to do it. Because I'm definitely no fuel line expect either! But to answer your questions exactly, the fitting in the picture is an male inverted flare and I think its 5/8" (90%confindent on the size so you should double check). Speedway is a great resource for fittings. Here is a couple links to fittings that will get you from the 5/8 IFF to a -6an(3/8) hose barb. This type of hose barb is what is typically used with pressure fuel line such as Vaporguard which is very common to use for this EFI conversions. Make sure you sure the correct type of clamp, not your off-the-shelve worm clamp.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frago...FF,373283.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls...ch,272641.html

That being said, I'm pretty sure the crossfire system ran a much lower fuel pressure than required for the modern EFI systems. So you may need to take a look at the other connections on the system if you are using the stock hard line and make sure they are sufficient.

Good Luck!
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by trevorhowe1212
Working through an efi conversion on my 80 now. I'm not exactly sure how the 82's are set up or whether the method you are proposing is the best way to do it. Because I'm definitely no fuel line expect either! But to answer your questions exactly, the fitting in the picture is an male inverted flare and I think its 5/8" (90%confindent on the size so you should double check). Speedway is a great resource for fittings. Here is a couple links to fittings that will get you from the 5/8 IFF to a -6an(3/8) hose barb. This type of hose barb is what is typically used with pressure fuel line such as Vaporguard which is very common to use for this EFI conversions. Make sure you sure the correct type of clamp, not your off-the-shelve worm clamp.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frago...FF,373283.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls...ch,272641.html

That being said, I'm pretty sure the crossfire system ran a much lower fuel pressure than required for the modern EFI systems. So you may need to take a look at the other connections on the system if you are using the stock hard line and make sure they are sufficient.

Good Luck!

thanks allot, ill order some stuff and see what I can slap together. I guarantee I'll have more questions in the near future. I don't have a heated shop and its getting cold in Wisconsin, so I don't spend allot of time out there.
Old 11-23-2020, 04:44 AM
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interesting, although I live in Australia now. I'm originally from Wisconsin. put EFI in my 77 just shy of 2 years ago. if I were you. I'd be running a new line / lines from the pump forward .
Old 11-24-2020, 10:27 PM
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If you are doing an EFI swap then look into the new Earl's Vaporguard fuel line if routing new steel lines is an issue. It is rubber line but designed with the new fuel's in mind. There is also a good assortment of fittings for it as well.
Old 11-25-2020, 05:34 AM
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ahhh, Vaporguard fuel line in several brands, not so "New".
Old 11-25-2020, 12:46 PM
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I am assuming that your throttle body set up is faulty. Otherwise, it would be a lot easier to just keep the EFI that is already on the '82 engine. Not sure why you want to spend the $$$ to get you about the same thing you already had. (Unless it just isn't operational.)

If the CrossFire system can't be repaired, going your suggested route is a decent direction to go.
Old 11-25-2020, 02:56 PM
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Not certain of the OP's circumstances. but lots of 82 owners out there have been posting about difficulty in getting certain parts and ECU's seem to be a big one.
the FiTech system is a Delphi based system that runs 58 PSI. the OP is going to need to drop his fuel tank and upgrade the fuel pump anyway. now's a good time to run new line from back to front. as opposed to splicing a high pressure fuel line.
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Old 11-25-2020, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Not certain of the OP's circumstances. but lots of 82 owners out there have been posting about difficulty in getting certain parts and ECU's seem to be a big one.
the FiTech system is a Delphi based system that runs 58 PSI. the OP is going to need to drop his fuel tank and upgrade the fuel pump anyway. now's a good time to run new line from back to front. as opposed to splicing a high pressure fuel line.
Old 11-25-2020, 09:41 PM
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russel sells all the adaptor fittings you will need but keep in mind the fitech runs about 50 psi and needs a return line and need volume as well as pressure since you are purchasing the the $$ fitech just purchase the intank pump kit and use all #6 lines i use the the dual power adder system on my BB blower motor with the hyper fuel delivery system and every thing just screws together once you put your fittings on, i also recomend a 30 micron filter at the tank and a 15 befor the throtle body
Old 11-25-2020, 09:50 PM
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btw fitech is a pain in the a@@ to get dialed in to where it will learn effectivly, dont use the fitech coolant temp sensor its about 7 degrees off, use the delco, and you will prob end up using the jetta 02s as well, here you ARE GOING TO NEED THIS LINK Fitech EFi Tuning Forum – Tuning Solutions i am there all over the place as well, hit me up if you have tuning issues and you will, because depending on what system you purchased you may not have access to the pro calibration tuning in the fitech, and you half to manualy turn that on in the handheld, but go to that link and read up on the the issues now mine runs GREAT but you must speak computor to dial it in on a base line.
Old 11-27-2020, 05:22 AM
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I run the Summit brand Max 500. a FiTech system. super easy to set up and tune. set the AFR's where you want them. and it learns super, and I mean super fast. yes, you need to go to pro tuning to get everything set. and yes, it helps if you have a clue what your doing.
Old 11-27-2020, 08:26 AM
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you need to start a thread on the max 500 i would like to know more about it currently running the fitech dual power adder
Old 12-17-2020, 04:11 AM
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Default Quick update

To shed some light on WHY I'm going from the stock EFI to FiTech, the original system did not work or run properly at all, I had leaky injectors, it wouldn't idle properly, the engine would stall and sputter. Regardless of what I tried to fix it, nothing worked. I have the money and a big shop I never get to use, so I figured I would just go for it. I purchased the car sight unseen from a buddy of mine while in the middle east, and it hadn't run in a while.

currently I am hooking everything up on the Fitech, I haven't figured out fuel pump wiring yet, I installed a new pump in the tank, (didn't have to drop the tank for this so I didn't replace any lines.) And I'm not sure where the wiring runs or where I should hook up the fitech. I don't have a service manual for the car, though I'll probably order one soon.
I have fitting for the fuel that will work great on the sending line, but i can't find fitting that match the return line. The return line is smaller than the sending line, and the factory fitting almost looks like it's NPT while the sending line is IF.

Once I have the distributor, fuel lines, and fuel pump connected, , ill move on to the coolant temp sensor, O2, and other stuff. I like to tackle the harder stuff first, and I have no idea what I'm doing outside of an oil change.

When it comes to normal repairs I'm fine, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 2008 Chevy 6.0, but the info on the web for my project is very limited.
Old 12-17-2020, 04:53 AM
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not clear on why you didn't drop the tank. however. on my system I run a LS style filter/ Regulator in the right rear quarter panel. (The FiTech system DOES run 58 PSI). I run a standard 3/8ths inch fuel line as a return line. into what was the original pickup line in the tank. cut off about an inch and a half above the floor of the tank. (I have an earlier tank design). New bulk head fitting for the feed line. all new power and ground wiring for the pump.
I would drop the tank, (I did). and do it right the first time.
Old 12-17-2020, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
not clear on why you didn't drop the tank. however. on my system I run a LS style filter/ Regulator in the right rear quarter panel. (The FiTech system DOES run 58 PSI). I run a standard 3/8ths inch fuel line as a return line. into what was the original pickup line in the tank. cut off about an inch and a half above the floor of the tank. (I have an earlier tank design). New bulk head fitting for the feed line. all new power and ground wiring for the pump.
I would drop the tank, (I did). and do it right the first time.
This being the first project car I've owned, and the first corvette I've ever owned (or even sat in to be honest) I don't know the "right way" from the wrong way.

as far as installing the pump, the entire unit comes out the fuel door in the back, and I swapped out the pump, wired it into the original unit, and installed it again. I used a Holley pump that pushes 60 psi.

The stock line is 3/8, and the return line I think is 5/16 but I'm probably wrong.

Unless I'm wrong, the Fitech has an integrated regulator for 58 PSI, if that's not the case I'll have to put one in.

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Old 12-17-2020, 06:52 AM
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im not sure on the max 500 but on the power adder the fuel pump signal wire/wires are positive switching and on the fan control fan 1 fan 2 are negitive switching and you need relays for both at a min of 40 amp, and i know the fitech coolant temp sensor is off from you gauge about 15 to 20 degrees every 1 running the fitech has switched to the gmc 1500 2 pin sensor it is closer to around 6 degrees
Old 01-21-2021, 10:53 PM
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Default Update #2

I'll try to post some pictures when I'm back at my shop, but no promises. I've got the fuel line issue mostly sorted, shy of testing for leaks. I'm 98% done hooking up the Fitech to the car, installing a new kickdown cable, and modifying the stock throttle cable/bracket to work with the fitech. I'm getting all the vacuum lines connected, and should be done with that very soon. I am going with a while new exhaust system. I have hooker headers and a hooker dual exhaust ready to go in, but some modification of the transmission crossmember is required to run exhaust down the drivers side. I have the crossmember removed, and will start measuring and cutting tomorrow morning. I also cleaned up the valve covers and ordered new gaskets, as the old cork gaskets were keeping the outside of the block well lubricated.

Hoping to have a running car here pretty soon, thanks for all the advice and knowledge. I'll be sure to ask if I have any more questions along the way.

Old 01-22-2021, 03:39 AM
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Christopher, what intake manifold are you using with the FiTech system? Single plane or dual?



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