bigvx5

Like title says a lot..I’ve read that it’s probably the rag joint..does this sound like the possible culprit?if so where can I get one in a hurry?i may be driving car to beach Saturday..I read somewhere about a Flaming River one which I could probably get from Summit Racing in 2 days..can I assume this is a shade tree mechanic repair?im decent with tools..I’m adding a pic to make sure I’m looking at the right thing.

ckirsch100

I think you’re looking at the rag joint in the picture though it’s terribly dark.

Big2Bird

I doubt that is your issue.

4-vettes

Agreed, that's the rag joint. But can't tell by the photo what happens when you turn the wheel back and forth. Have someone help you and sit in the car, with the key in and column unlocked, have them turn the wheel right, then left a few times as you watch the joint. Should be obvious if the joint is loose or torn.
replacing it is a bit of a bear. But can be done.

Remmfire

Plus 1 for the rag joint, mine was bad when I got the car. You can get them in the help section of most auto stores that I’ve seen. Not too awful to replace.

If that turns out to not be the problem, you may want to look at the power steering control valve. Its attached to the steering arm via a balljoint and mine was also extremely loose.

7T1vette

You need someone with diagnostic skills to find the 'sloppy' parts in the steering system. Slop/play and be anywhere in the system: steering column, ragjoint, steering box, all steering system joints....

For fast diagnosis, I suggest that you go to a well respected LOCAL garage with alignment equipment and ask them to inspect the steering and suspension system in your car. Have them list items than they think MUST be replaced and those that MAY need replacement. Tell them you want to pay for this assessment before considering who or how to make the repairs; and ask them for an up-front cost. If they won't do that, they are not a good shop and you need to go elsewhere.

There is NO WAY that we can diagnose your car's issues and get them resolved in that short a time span. But, if you get a good diagnosis quickly and find a shop to do the MUST DO repairs, you might get it done to that tight schedule.

Rescue Rogers

Is it power steering or manual? If its power steering the power steering control valve moves alot when the engine is off or theres a lack of fluid in it...but thats a different animal...

i would jack the front end up and give the front wheels a good twist left and right with your hands. If theres an issue with the tie rod ends you will feel a clunk on each side. If you grab the tops and bottoms and push and pull them and they clunk its a ball joint.
if neither does anything then your steering box may be loose. It can be adjusted but thats going to open a whole can of worms like every other subject here that gets over analyzed by retired engineers. if you twist the wheel and the rod going in is moving a lot and the pitman arm isnt, thats pretty indicative it needs a little adjustment provided the rag joint isnt falling apart, You would see that too if the rod is moving and the rag joint isnt .

You will hear a lot about rebuilding and high points and blah blah blah and you should never touch the steering box because the corvette gods say no. but Any way here goes, theres a screw on the top that has a locknut. You can loosen the nut and turn the screw in a quarter turn and see if that tightens up the slop. If not try another 1/4 turn. Keep track of how many turns in you go so you can reference it later. It doesnt need to be tight it just needs to be close, tight is bad and may cause it to bind.

Theres two wedge shaped gears that can be effected buy bushing wear, bearing wear, and loss of grease. Tightening the screw will bring the gears closer together without changing any alignments or angles or whatever they're going to bring up. ITs just 2 pieces of metal that are worn that needs the gap closed.... You can rebuild it too if the bushings arent too warn and dont have to be replaced. Theres kits online to rebuild it. Mine was in great shape. I pulled it completely apart cleaned everything, put it back together and stuffed it with grease. Works better than you would believe....

REMEMBER its designed buy an engineer but built buy a blue collar minimum wage worker...nuff said



you can see the gears get wider at the bottom


wider at the bottom so screwing the screw in will take up the slop




all the parts

Techno

What is a lot of play? This may be somewhat of an insulting question but the amount of play may be normal.

derekderek

Power steering? Play when running? The control valve mounts to the frame on driver's side with essentially shock absorber bushings. Start the car. Have somebody work wheel back-forth thru the free play. Look at rag joint. No play? Next check steering box. Rag joint end turns but output doesn't move? Play in steering box. Can be adjusted to improve it. Now get under and look at control valve, valve mount, and idler arm. May have to put phone in video cuz your head doesn't fit. But you will find the loose spot.

Rescue Rogers

The control valve mount Dereck mentions has been known to crack the frame and pull apart

Big2Bird

I am pretty sure that's the ram cylinder.

leigh1322

While there are a lot of items that can give you a "little play", as Rescue Rogers stated I believe the gearbox is the biggest contributor to "a lot of play". The recirculating ball system has two different adjustment nuts required to tighten it up. The easy one on the vertical shaft, the harder one is on the horizontal shaft. I have seen these boxes generate up to 4 inches of play before the car responds. Put a piece of tape at the top of the wheel and measure it. If you adjust it yourself make absolutely sure it does not bind up the steering.

And unlike the masses who badmouth it, when properly blue-printed, by an expert, (not just "rebuilt") you would be hard pressed to tell it apart from a rack n pinion. Zero play is possible. BTDT I ran a NASCAR level recirc box in my solo car (Z28). No slop. None.