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I have the Hamburger 1088. Summit sent me the wrong one with all the bolt holes. I would like to use a FelPro one piece gasket with all bolts rather than this one that skips every other side bolt. this pan is a 7 qu but a 6 would be fine.
The Canton stroker pan skips the same bolts and only holds 6 quarters. This pan was not leaking from the front or sides, just the back, so the number of holes would not have solved any leak issues anyway. I think I'm just going to stick with the Hamburger pan.
David
That Moroso pan has all the holes and can accept a 4" stroke. I could use the single piece felpro gasket I think? I can't wait 3 months though, so I think i'll make the Hamburger pan work.
If car's primarily drag, use a drag pan ... but if vigorous R-L, use an RR pan.
Summit racing was only 5-10 minutes from my work. So I often bought 2-3-4 of the item and took it home to determine which was the best for me. The 1 1/4 inch height difference was immaterial because the lowest point is the Lakewood blow proof bell housing, then the header collectors and above them is the 8 1/4 inch deep pan.
But I tried to fit one of the road race aluminum dual side kick out pans. It's been along time ago, memory fades. It had interference with my clutch linkage and in the front the steering arm clearance or something like that.
I should also add that the best baffled road racing pans are more for use with gentleman's weekend road racing. Early on I saw nice prepped cars on slicks pulling into to the pits with rod knock. I used to get the oil light in long turns and have to back off. I went to 4 quart canton accusump like everybody else capable of higher "G" turns
also, Sometimes the light coming on IS due is too Much oil in pan, ensuing windage entrains air into oil (aeration) and oil becomes compressible ... pressure drops ... sometimes.
I’m just a street and sometimes drag strip racer with this pan ( and the 4-link solid axle ). The more I think about the fact that mine had good sealing on the sides tells me I should stick with this pan. The front and rear areas are the same and the rear gasket was where I had the bad leaks.
I’m just a street and sometimes drag strip racer with this pan ( and the 4-link solid axle ). The more I think about the fact that mine had good sealing on the sides tells me I should stick with this pan. The front and rear areas are the same and the rear gasket was where I had the bad leaks.
I seem to have the same problem with my 454 pan after the engine rebuild. Do these pans need replacing or are they just hard to get a good seal on the front and back? Don't mean to steal your thread but it seems like the same exact topic.
06-13-2020, 07:29 PM
Need a new sb 427 oil pan?
