MIKER

It turned out GREAT (at least compared to how it was before)! My Vette has never driven this well in all the years that I've owned it.
I had planned on taking it to one of the local tire shops for an alignment but decided to see what I could do at home. I found a couple of sites on the Internet that provided enough information to get me started.
To check caster I made up a fixture to attach an angle finder to. I can't claim great accuracy but at least I feel confident that both sides were already equal to each other.
To check camber I used a level with two 1" PVC pipe couplings taped to it so I could rest it against the rims. Again, this is not very precise but it works.
To check toe I found the centerline of my car using a plumb bob and measured 36" from the centerline out to the sides of the car. I used two jack stands and a piece of string on each side of the car.
After precisely aligning the strings based on the centerline, use a precision ruler to measure the distance from the string to the front and back of each tire / rim. Make adjustments accordingly.
I based my settings on the ones shown in the Vette Brakes and Products catalog.

I know it sounds kind of lame to use a carpenters level, tape measure, string, etc. to align a Vette with but it came out a LOT better than the last guy who used a really nice alignment machine. The front wheel camber was positive on one side and negative on the other. The front toe setting was ~3/8" in and the rear toe settings was ~1/8 out. No friggin' wonder the rear end felt squirlly.
I set the front toe to ~1/8" or less and the rear toe to ~1/16"

Based on my positive experience using basic tools, I'm going to spend a few dollars to purchase some alignment tools for my shop. I may never pay for an alignment again.
Another bonus was that while finding the "centerline", I found that my frame measures perfectly from corner to corner diagonally.

virtue4u

Interesting, but can you explain a little better how you found the centerline of your car. I can't quite picture it in my mind.

PRNDL

Do you have a link to the websites that were helpful? i would be interested in trying that, but I would need very detailed step-by-step instructions with pictures..... kind of like what you would need if you were teaching a 5 yr old to do it!! :) I have never had my vette alligned because I dont trust anyone to do it right. MJ

Chris O'

:cool: How about a "how to paper"?

Larry B.

I can add something here that makes the job very easy... Get eight 12" squares of teflon or nylon about 1/16th" thick.. Put a small wad of grease between two and make four sets. Now put theses squares in front of each wheel and drive onto them. Don't jack the car up because you want the wieght on the suspesion to to a good alignment. Now proceed with a level and or a degree protractor. You can usually do a much better job than those so called computer alignments. It is not rocket science here guys. Just high school geometry and reading a tape measure. :D I have been doing them this way for years and I get great tire wear and my car handle good.


[Modified by silvervetteman, 8:43 PM 11/19/2002]

MIKER

Sorry for not being clear on how to do it. I'll try to add more detail along with references. There may be some inaccuracies, as this was my first home alignment job. Other forum members do their own alignments. The more clarification that the experienced guys can provide the better. :)
I would have done a step by step "HOW TO" complete with photographs but this was more of a learning adventure for me. It worked out well enough that I am planning to purchase some alignment tools so that I will be able to do the job faster and more accurately.

References:

GM Service Manual

1980 Corvette Assembly Manual
http://www.corvettefaq.com

Four wheel alignment for Vettes (by Chris Teague) http://www.vettenet.org/align.html

VBP alignment specs (page 6 in 2002 catalog) http://www.stingray.nu/tips/alignment.htm

Do-It-Yourself Alignment (by Calvin Sanders) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html

Example of tools that I WANT. Longacre Racing Products, Inc. http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...st.asp?catid=5


Make adjustments in the following order:
Caster
Camber
Toe

1. I checked the floor surface in my shop to make sure it was level. (My floor was level) If not, you should shim up the four places that your tires will sit. Vinyl floor tiles are good to use because they will allow your tires to move easily while making adjustments to your suspension.

2. I verified that the air pressure in the tires was the same from side to side.

3. I checked out the height of my car vs. the specifications provided in my assembly manual. The front suspension is 95.2% of the "curb target". The rear suspension is 96.8% of the "curb target". (I had just replaced my 7-1/2" spring bolts with 10" bolts so that I could lower my rear end.)

4. I checked the caster with a carpenter style angle finder mounted to a home made fixture of 1/2" PVC pipe. It was barely good enough for repeatable results from side to side.

5. I checked the camber using a 24" level. I used electrical tape to hold two 1" PVC pipe couplings onto the level. The coupling allowed me to check the level on the surface of the rim from top of rim to bottom of rim. The web links describe how to decifer the results. The article written by Calvin Sanders explained this very well.

6. Locate Centerline. To do this, I located the corners of my frame by hanging a plumb bob from the corners of my frame (outside edge). I marked the exact location indicated by the plumb bob onto the floor. (I found the distance between these marks to be EXACTLY the same as those stated in my GM shop manual, 32-3/16" between the front frame rails and 45-5/8" between the rear frame rails). I also measured diagonally from the front corner mark to rear corner mark on each side to verify that the frame was square and thankfully, it was! 151 3/16" for both measurements) Place a mark onto the floor EXACTLY in between these marks (front of car and rear of car). These marks represent your "centerline". Pull a tight string over these marks / under the car, from the front to the back. Now hang the plumb bob over this string and mark this centerline onto the front and rear bumbers. You will reference these marks to set up the strings along the outside edge of your car.

7. On each side of the car I placed a jack stand about 2' past the rear bumper and about 2' past the front bumper. Tie a string between these jack stands at a height that is equal to the center of your wheels. Ultimately, you want the string to be any where within 6" of your wheels. For example, measuring 36" from the centerline mark on my car resulted in the string being about 2" away from the front and rear wheels.
Now you are ready to start checking and adjusting the toe adjustment on each of your four wheels by measuring from the string to the front and rear of each wheel using a precision ruler.


[Modified by MIKER, 8:46 PM 11/19/2002]

PRNDL

silvervetteman, could you pls elaborate? I got my car sitting on 4 grease sammiches..... now what do I do?? :) MJ (and what exactly am I using for bread? teflon? nylon? ) :confused: thanks


and MIKER, thanks for the references and more detailed explanations. I have printed them all out and am studying..... will return with questions! :) MJ



[Modified by MNJack, 11:07 PM 11/19/2002]

WATTAC

I agree with everything that's been said, but the center line can best be found using the suspension, not the body. Measure from the lower ball joints in the front, and any convienent same two points on the suspension in the rear, the farther apart the better. The idea is to find the center line of the suspension, you really don't care much if the body is setting at a slight angle with the suspension, you won't even notice. If you want you can use the distance between the center of the axles measured from the hub cabs or axle, and cut it in half to find the center.

I did the alignment on my own car, took some time and some homemade fixtures, just like miker, but it is do-able, just measure real close and follow instructions.

Andy

Larry B.

OK.... now that you car is on those grease sandwiches.. you can make any adjustment very easy because the plates will slide instead of trying to drag the rubber(tires) across the floor. It is like those ball swivel plates on an alignment rack. You cannot align with the car jacked up.... The wieght has to be on the suspension.

MARKUS_P

:bb :crazy: :yesnod:
Now I understand too, silvervetteman
That´s a great idea, if it works :rolleyes:
A very good input IMHO
:seeya Markus

virtue4u

OK, I got it now. I will try it on my 72 Ford LTD before I try it on the Vette. The Ford specs say toe is 1/16" to 7/16". That must be total toe. Anyone know? The procedure on how to measure castor was very interesting. I never could figure out how you guys were doing that. Now, I know.

MIKER

I strongly recommend the "grease sandwiches". Also, the next time I do this, I will use one or two 12"x12"x4" cement pads under each tire along with the "grease sandwiches". The additional ground clearance would make it much easier to adjust the tie rods and strut rods.

Have any of you ever used one of these Caster / Camber Gauges? http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=131&catid=5


The home made "grease sandwiches" look even better when compared to the price of these Aluminum Turn Plates which sell for $520 :eek: :cool: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=150&catid=5

MIKER

Yes, they are referring to total toe.

Even if you don't want to make any adjustments on your Vette, finding the center line, checking the frame measrements, suspension "Z" height, and ride height can be pretty interesting.
As WATTAC stated, it would be better to use the centerline based on the front and rear suspension for alignment purposes. Just for grins, compare it to the centerline found using the frame corners as reference.

norvalwilhelm

I have that caster camber gage and really like it. It requires moving the front wheels 20 degrees left and right. To do this the greased plates would work but I have carpeted garage floors so I just place sheet metal plates under the wheels , mark 20 degrees on the floor and grab the wheel and effortlessly move it 20 in and 20 out and take a reading.
This gage magnetically clamps to the front spindles but be carefull the magnet is too strong and chips itself when it grabs the spindle.
For toe I have built a precission rod with pointer to measure the center of the tire. A tape measure just stretched across from side to side is not accurate enough and you can't reach the center of the wheel.

MIKER

Norval, does your toe measurement rod look anything like this one? http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=153&catid=5

NHvette

One thing I considered for use as a toe-in guage is a shower curtain rod.
Most of the spring loaded curtain rods are adjustable by turning the inside
tube, which threads on the spring. Placing this between the tires, you could
turn the rods until it is snug between the insides of the tires in the front - then
check the back.

Another trick I've used in toe checking is my fishing rod. Make sure your rod
is straight, and place it along the outer edge of the front tire - half way up.
Sight down the rod with your eye, and adjust toe-in until both front tire edges
project to 'just outside' the edge of the rear tires. This is not an accurate
setting, but it gets you close - after doing steering work. Also, it's a quick
and easy way to check the current toe-in without crawling on the ground.

MNJ - I like the carpet/sheetmetal better than the grease. Less mess, and I
have the neccessary materials on-hand. Re-usable without cleanup, and
all you really need are 4 small pieces of carpet. Do you think the wife
will mind me using the bathroom throw rugs ? They are right next to the
shower curtain rod !! :jester
:seeya


[Modified by Daves_rusty_75, 11:07 AM 11/20/2002]

norvalwilhelm

That's it Miker. Only mine has little stands to keep it from falling over. When I come up the driveway I stop slowly without turning the wheel then slid the gage under the front and back to check toe, make small adjustments then do it over again the next time I am out.
Before I ever check toe I first have to assure myself that the treads run true so previous I have jacked each wheel, placed a pointed close to the tire and spun the wheel to check trueness.
Once I know my wheels and tires spin true I then use the gage to check toe. I use a laser level to make sure the rear and front wheels are pointing in the same plane.

norvalwilhelm

These toe gages can be made with a piece of 1/2 inch pipe even copper if you want and 2 old clamps from chemisty, for a retort stand. In school we used bunsen burners and various retort stands and clamps. Luckily I still have access to these and used 2 to hold my pointed rods.

Frank75

I used a different gauge:
http://www.polepositionrp.com/srfastrax.html

I liked the idea of the mounting points being further apart which would presumably lessen any error due to attachment points. I projected a laser-line onto the gauge from the rear wheels to determine if they were in the same plane as the front wheels (they weren't) but it only took two iterations to set rear-toe/alignment.

They also sell a toe measurement adaptor (which I didn't buy) as I was going to make my own. I wimped-out and used a tape measure for now.

PRNDL

Thanks guys for all the clarrification! I am inspired! :)

however, it is still not clear to me how the homemade castor and camber checking tools actually work. :confused: Sorry, I am just slow.

Also, I have no clue how to actually do any of the adjustments....

I do understand the grease sammich concept now! In fact, I may try to cut a circle for the top piece, connect it to the bottom piece thru the center of the circle, and measure off the degrees so I can see how far the front wheel are turned.

Does this tool have any merit? It is $9.99 from Harborfreight.... I know, I know.....



Safely get your vehicle back on the road after replacing struts, rack and pinion steering, or doing any type of front end work. Accurately restore the strut alignment to factory specs without expensive equipment.
Super strong magnet mounts on brake rotor, spindle or steering knuckle
Easy-to-read unbreakable bubble level
Camber settings from -3° to +3°

MJ


[Modified by MNJack, 10:01 PM 11/20/2002]