302 vs bbc 427 to 540 to 632
#21
At $8,900 and change it's far from a "budget build" SBC....... but a crate motor BBC will cost you as much or more for sure and honestly.......that small block just fits better and is easy to argue as preferable in my opinion.
a little over a year ago I went with a very reasonably priced 383 with a very honest 455HP..........it took my car with a TCI Turbo 350 Super Street fighter auto trans down the quarter mile at a 12.8 sec pass.........better gears and traction it'd be easy to imagine a mid to low 12sec time slip. That 427 SBC with an extra 100 ft pounds of torque and 100 extra horsepower has to very easily put you into an 11 second pass with enough tire to contain the power.
Driving home on a twisty road and the car should be as good as possible for the chassis.......something no Big Block can ever claim unless made entirely out of aluminum. Chevy only built 2 of those in 1969.......I suppose you could attempt to acquire one........but WOW......talk about a budget breaker. Seems to me the LS swap is the move I'd make if more power was required anyway.......there is NO PLACE for the antiquated BBC in my world.
AT least no place other than that previously mention number matching museum quality restoration or survivor.
#22
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St. Jude Donor '05
Only thing that keeps me from dropping a BB in mine is if I get the itch to put wider rubbber up front as i like to corner sometimes.
Im not impressed with the ls...they have thier place but look wrong to me in any older car no matter how well done they are.
Gen 1 power is a cakewalk to make these days besides you can only get so much to the ground the rest is just waving a dyno sheet around big deal.
Im not impressed with the ls...they have thier place but look wrong to me in any older car no matter how well done they are.
Gen 1 power is a cakewalk to make these days besides you can only get so much to the ground the rest is just waving a dyno sheet around big deal.
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Only thing that keeps me from dropping a BB in mine is if I get the itch to put wider rubbber up front as i like to corner sometimes.
Im not impressed with the ls...they have thier place but look wrong to me in any older car no matter how well done they are.
Gen 1 power is a cakewalk to make these days besides you can only get so much to the ground the rest is just waving a dyno sheet around big deal.
Im not impressed with the ls...they have thier place but look wrong to me in any older car no matter how well done they are.
Gen 1 power is a cakewalk to make these days besides you can only get so much to the ground the rest is just waving a dyno sheet around big deal.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 10-28-2019 at 10:55 AM.
#24
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St. Jude Donor '05
I hear ya...like the look, exh note all that too. Blocks are too much these days and weight conscious.Its never enough
Last edited by cv67; 10-28-2019 at 01:06 PM.
#25
Old Pro Solo Guy
I don't get the BB bashing, And believe me I loved my LT-1 I drove for 27 years.
But lets compare apples to apples please. Lets compare similarly built engines.
An AL head/intake/w.p SB is about 488 and a BB version is about 565. Only about an 80 lb difference.
That's not going to make it understeer like a pig, you need to do a little chassis tuning, as with any C3.
The AMA sheet says my car is 49% front/51% rear wt distribution. 3380 lbs all stock. No dieting. We'll soon see.
So with a BB you basically get a 100 extra cubes at the same build level, and 100-150 lbs more torque, with a battery sized weight penalty. I can live with that.
I am building my 1970 LS6 engine much like my 1970 LT-1. And it should be 560HP vs 410, and 580 tq vs 420. Both with era correct heads.
I'll like it, not because it is better than my LT-1, just because it's different.
One'll rev better, and one'll have more torque.
I'll have $9k into it, the same as the 427 blueprint engine, with more HP & TQ.
And my engine builder said I left 100+ HP on the table, for free, by going with the original 454 crank vs a 496, and 50 year old L88 snowflake alum heads vs new AFRs, since I was buying all the parts anyway as I started with nothing.
And that's exactly what they did in the blueprint engine didn't they?
So that would have been around 650ish. vs 540 for the Blueprint.
Why can't we just love all the C3s, SB or BB?
There's not much around that revs like a good SB. And 510 ft lb at almost idle has to be felt to be appreciated.
But lets compare apples to apples please. Lets compare similarly built engines.
An AL head/intake/w.p SB is about 488 and a BB version is about 565. Only about an 80 lb difference.
That's not going to make it understeer like a pig, you need to do a little chassis tuning, as with any C3.
The AMA sheet says my car is 49% front/51% rear wt distribution. 3380 lbs all stock. No dieting. We'll soon see.
So with a BB you basically get a 100 extra cubes at the same build level, and 100-150 lbs more torque, with a battery sized weight penalty. I can live with that.
I am building my 1970 LS6 engine much like my 1970 LT-1. And it should be 560HP vs 410, and 580 tq vs 420. Both with era correct heads.
I'll like it, not because it is better than my LT-1, just because it's different.
One'll rev better, and one'll have more torque.
I'll have $9k into it, the same as the 427 blueprint engine, with more HP & TQ.
And my engine builder said I left 100+ HP on the table, for free, by going with the original 454 crank vs a 496, and 50 year old L88 snowflake alum heads vs new AFRs, since I was buying all the parts anyway as I started with nothing.
And that's exactly what they did in the blueprint engine didn't they?
So that would have been around 650ish. vs 540 for the Blueprint.
Why can't we just love all the C3s, SB or BB?
There's not much around that revs like a good SB. And 510 ft lb at almost idle has to be felt to be appreciated.
#26
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St. Jude Donor '05
The ones that rave about a solid lifter Lt1 would chit driving a solid lifter 454 its just that much better only you dont need rpm/gearing to do it.
Just crack the throttle
Just crack the throttle
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leigh1322 (10-28-2019)
#27
Old Pro Solo Guy
Agreed. 1st & 2nd in a SB feels like .... well... 2nd & 3rd in a BB
So what does 1st in a BB feel like?
Depends on how much traction you have, 1st & 2nd may feel the same. 1st may be traction limited with a BB
So what does 1st in a BB feel like?
Depends on how much traction you have, 1st & 2nd may feel the same. 1st may be traction limited with a BB
#28
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Your on the freeway with your sbc at 80mph and a bbc is beside you the race is now on. All you will see is taillights of the bbc and they will get harder for you to see the longer the race goes on. I like sbc I even go by little mouse but you can not compare the two and the situation today is worse today now with the really huge rats easy to build today. Your stuck with a punny 4.185 cylinder bore in a sbc and you still have to pay someone to bore it that far, you just use a 4.60 cylinder dart bbc and it comes that way. You get 300 to maybe 340 airflow for an aftermarget sbc 23 degree head you feel like you have done good, hell that's just a starting point for a bbc. You could come up with a 440 cfm all out racing head for a sbc but then the big block 550 to 600 cfm. all out head. Just a losing battle trying to compare the two engines. Your rich money not a problem you can buy a 1000 cu. BBC already built for you.
Last edited by Little Mouse; 10-29-2019 at 01:05 AM.
#29
Old Pro Solo Guy
How about an "even" apples to apples comparison?
SB vs BB
427 vs 427
As similar as we can make it, head flow,CR, cam, carb, etc
HP vs Price, Torque, Weight etc
Interested?
Surely someone in this group has built at least one each of a similar enough combo that we could compare.
What parameters would you suggest for a comparison?
A max - street effort? or all-out?
CR?
Head Flow?
Cam Duration?
Carb size?
SB vs BB
427 vs 427
As similar as we can make it, head flow,CR, cam, carb, etc
HP vs Price, Torque, Weight etc
Interested?
Surely someone in this group has built at least one each of a similar enough combo that we could compare.
What parameters would you suggest for a comparison?
A max - street effort? or all-out?
CR?
Head Flow?
Cam Duration?
Carb size?
#30
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
How about an "even" apples to apples comparison?
SB vs BB
427 vs 427
As similar as we can make it, head flow,CR, cam, carb, etc
HP vs Price, Torque, Weight etc
Interested?
Surely someone in this group has built at least one each of a similar enough combo that we could compare.
What parameters would you suggest for a comparison?
A max - street effort? or all-out?
CR?
Head Flow?
Cam Duration?
Carb size?
SB vs BB
427 vs 427
As similar as we can make it, head flow,CR, cam, carb, etc
HP vs Price, Torque, Weight etc
Interested?
Surely someone in this group has built at least one each of a similar enough combo that we could compare.
What parameters would you suggest for a comparison?
A max - street effort? or all-out?
CR?
Head Flow?
Cam Duration?
Carb size?
Last edited by Little Mouse; 10-29-2019 at 12:38 PM.
#31
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I don't get the BB bashing, And believe me I loved my LT-1 I drove for 27 years.
But lets compare apples to apples please. Lets compare similarly built engines.
An AL head/intake/w.p SB is about 488 and a BB version is about 565. Only about an 80 lb difference.
That's not going to make it understeer like a pig, you need to do a little chassis tuning, as with any C3.
The AMA sheet says my car is 49% front/51% rear wt distribution. 3380 lbs all stock. No dieting. We'll soon see.
So with a BB you basically get a 100 extra cubes at the same build level, and 100-150 lbs more torque, with a battery sized weight penalty. I can live with that.
I am building my 1970 LS6 engine much like my 1970 LT-1. And it should be 560HP vs 410, and 580 tq vs 420. Both with era correct heads.
I'll like it, not because it is better than my LT-1, just because it's different.
One'll rev better, and one'll have more torque.
I'll have $9k into it, the same as the 427 blueprint engine, with more HP & TQ.
And my engine builder said I left 100+ HP on the table, for free, by going with the original 454 crank vs a 496, and 50 year old L88 snowflake alum heads vs new AFRs, since I was buying all the parts anyway as I started with nothing.
And that's exactly what they did in the blueprint engine didn't they?
So that would have been around 650ish. vs 540 for the Blueprint.
Why can't we just love all the C3s, SB or BB?
There's not much around that revs like a good SB. And 510 ft lb at almost idle has to be felt to be appreciated.
But lets compare apples to apples please. Lets compare similarly built engines.
An AL head/intake/w.p SB is about 488 and a BB version is about 565. Only about an 80 lb difference.
That's not going to make it understeer like a pig, you need to do a little chassis tuning, as with any C3.
The AMA sheet says my car is 49% front/51% rear wt distribution. 3380 lbs all stock. No dieting. We'll soon see.
So with a BB you basically get a 100 extra cubes at the same build level, and 100-150 lbs more torque, with a battery sized weight penalty. I can live with that.
I am building my 1970 LS6 engine much like my 1970 LT-1. And it should be 560HP vs 410, and 580 tq vs 420. Both with era correct heads.
I'll like it, not because it is better than my LT-1, just because it's different.
One'll rev better, and one'll have more torque.
I'll have $9k into it, the same as the 427 blueprint engine, with more HP & TQ.
And my engine builder said I left 100+ HP on the table, for free, by going with the original 454 crank vs a 496, and 50 year old L88 snowflake alum heads vs new AFRs, since I was buying all the parts anyway as I started with nothing.
And that's exactly what they did in the blueprint engine didn't they?
So that would have been around 650ish. vs 540 for the Blueprint.
Why can't we just love all the C3s, SB or BB?
There's not much around that revs like a good SB. And 510 ft lb at almost idle has to be felt to be appreciated.
#32
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Anyone who thinks a 540+ cube BBC won't rev quickly have never ridden in one. Trust me...mine revs quick as you want and it's never shifted under 7500 RPM...and crosses the line at 8000. And it's been doing it for 19 years so far.....and been very reliable.
JIM
JIM
#33
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Last edited by Little Mouse; 10-29-2019 at 05:50 PM.
#34
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St. Jude Donor '05
x2
I dont care what some peak dyno # is on a stroker sbc it will never be the same as a big block.
Dyno and street are two different things. Have a pretty stout sbc but id do a BB in a hot second if I had the $ theresnothing like it.
Drive a 600hp sbc/bbc the difference is obvious.
I dont care what some peak dyno # is on a stroker sbc it will never be the same as a big block.
Dyno and street are two different things. Have a pretty stout sbc but id do a BB in a hot second if I had the $ theresnothing like it.
Drive a 600hp sbc/bbc the difference is obvious.
Last edited by cv67; 10-30-2019 at 12:31 PM.
#35
Old Pro Solo Guy
I am really curious though if there would be any difference in power or torque, for two Equivalent cubic Inch motors, one SBC one BBC.
What do you think?
427 SBC vs 427 BBC
Wouldn't that be interesting?
What do you think?
427 SBC vs 427 BBC
Wouldn't that be interesting?
#36
Safety Car
Two equivalent cubic inch motors, say 427 SBC vs. 427 BBC, if equivalent in peak horsepower (ex. 600 hp), in similar cars would E.T. the same. Each would have to be optimized as far as gear ratio, though. The BBC would have its peak torque at a lower RPM, while the SBC would rev higher. Both would cross the finish line at about the same time. The BBC will feel quicker at first because of the neck-snapping low end torque, but would get caught at the end.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; 10-31-2019 at 03:53 PM.
#37
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There's a lot of variables in the comparison. That 600 HP small block would have some serious aftermarket parts while the BBC would be able to do it with iron oval ports. The peak HP might be similar but the torque band could look a lot different. No doubt the small block would run hard...and of course unless you equalized weights it could be a mismatched race. The better aftermarket parts in the small block might do better everywhere also if the combo was built right.
My old 427 big block was run hard for 20+ years in 3 different cars and I still have it. 2 bolt main, 3/8" rods, forged pistons, flat tappet cam, iron heads. Ran anywhere from 11.70's in mildest form to 9.90's with some tweaks and some N20. In the middle was a real nice combo with a small street roller cam that made 423 RWHP at only 5850 RPM...yet was only down 6 hp at 7000. Had an incredibly wide powerband and walked away from many a car that dyno'd higher. Today..it could be made a lot quicker with some different parts pretty easily.
The beauty of the big block is for the same $$$ you can make BIG cubes at any price point whether it's low buck or mega. Those added cubes are an advantage in a street toy and a heck of a lot of fun!
JIM
My old 427 big block was run hard for 20+ years in 3 different cars and I still have it. 2 bolt main, 3/8" rods, forged pistons, flat tappet cam, iron heads. Ran anywhere from 11.70's in mildest form to 9.90's with some tweaks and some N20. In the middle was a real nice combo with a small street roller cam that made 423 RWHP at only 5850 RPM...yet was only down 6 hp at 7000. Had an incredibly wide powerband and walked away from many a car that dyno'd higher. Today..it could be made a lot quicker with some different parts pretty easily.
The beauty of the big block is for the same $$$ you can make BIG cubes at any price point whether it's low buck or mega. Those added cubes are an advantage in a street toy and a heck of a lot of fun!
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; 10-31-2019 at 10:54 PM.
#38
Instructor
I ended up having to replace the BB in my 71. The block was not original to the car and was not worth trying to fix/rebuild. The crank journals looked like someone had polished them with 50 grit sandpaper. I was able to build a very nice running 498 stroker with aluminum heads and a Lunati solid flat tappet cam for less than $5k. I don't have a clue how much power it makes. It pulls like a freight train, sounds bitchin, doesn't overheat, and starts and idles every time I turn the key. Unfortunately, now I have to build the TH400 because second gear is pretty much wiped out....
#39
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St. Jude Donor '05
11;5:1 bbc and sbc
427
220 and 265 afr
240 hr sbc 260 bbc
single plane
tell me they are the same lol
427
220 and 265 afr
240 hr sbc 260 bbc
single plane
tell me they are the same lol
#40
Old Pro Solo Guy
Two equivalent cubic inch motors, say 427 SBC vs. 427 BBC, if equivalent in peak horsepower (ex. 600 hp), in similar cars would E.T. the same. Each would have to be optimized as far as gear ratio, though. The BBC would have its peak torque at a lower RPM, while the SBC would rev higher. Both would cross the finish line at about the same time. The BBC will feel quicker at first because of the neck-snapping low end torque, but would get caught at the end.
But I do know of two variables you'd probably never be able to fix:
- BBC cranks are heavier, maybe by 15-25 lbs?
- BBC probably has a wider bore and shorter stroke, at that Cu. In., so it should un-shroud the valves more..
Update: Can equivalent heads even be found?
A very quick search looks like some heavily ported SBC bowtie heads can flow almost as much as stock BBC oval ports. But the port volumes are still not comparable: 220 cc vs 270 cc. And one is a 50 year old design and ones state of the art off the flow bench. Can an "equivalent" pair of heads even be found? The original OP question was all about valve size. But is it? Isn't port flow and volume just as or even more important?
Last edited by leigh1322; 11-01-2019 at 09:37 AM.