74-Roadster

I'm replacing the seals on my actuators this weekend and I've checked the archives but can't find any advice on actually performing the work. Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks, Glenn

trw

Try this link from the NCRS forum

http://www.ncrs.org/forum/tech.cgi?read=64711

I'm thinking I need this to.

Terry

PRNDL

Actually, there are (or were...) 2 online articles with photos and step by step instructions on how to do this job. Funny thing is, I think one of the articles has a photo with the seal on backwards!! :lol: I will see if I can track down the articles and post a link. MJ

OK, both articles can be gotten to via your best source of C3 how-to articles, ie http://www.corvettefaq.com

One is from the Zip website:
http://www.zip-corvette.com/has2.htm


The other is from corvettemagazine.com

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002...s/lights-1.asp



[Modified by MNJack, 9:29 PM 11/8/2002]

PRNDL

There really is no excuse for publishing this picture with the seal going on BACKWARDS!!!! :mad

74-Roadster

I searched for both headlight and actuator in the C3 archives and came up empty. There was a tech article about rebuilding the relay. But it didn't address removal from car etc.

I'm sure I'll figure it out, just looking to save time and make sure I don't hurt anything.

The thread to the NCRS forum indicated to perform the work with the actuators in the car since the AC makes it harder to remove them. Hmmmm, any thoughts from those of you who removed them and have AC?

74-Roadster

Thanks Jack!!! Those articles are the ticket. Sure hope this is my only vacuum problem. My lights work, just slow.

MIKER

Glenn,
I have replaced the seals in both of my canisters. There was BARELY enough room to remove the canisters from the top side with the hood still on the car. If you have help, it is so easy to remove/re-install the hood that I would at least consider it.
Replacing the seals is pretty easy. . . UNLESS. . . the clevis is frozen onto the threaded end of the rod. :cry:
I had replacement seal retaining rings so used my dremel with a cutoff wheel to carefully remove the prongs from the OLD retaining ring which holds the seal in place. (or pry them up if you can)

DMONSVETTE

My friend just got done replacing all actuator seals and dust boot.
He replaced the seals without even removing the retaining clamp thingy.
He used some silcone gel all over the actuator seal, slide it over the
post thing after sanding it smooth and then stuffed the new seal
into position. Headlights work better then new.
Took actuators out after removing the hood.
Make sure you remember which is left and which is right, if you
put them back the wrong sides the hood won't close.
Good luck. :seeya

74-Roadster

Thanks for a couple more good tips. I got the kit from ZIP and new seals and retaining rings are included. With my one piece aluminum grill up front, I think I can remove mine through the nose and avoid messing with the hood. If the hood comes off, the underside will get painted . . . WHILE I'M AT IT!!! :eek:

DMONSVETTE

thats what I did. :yesnod: :seeya

hunt4cleanair

I replaced seal and boot on passenger side actuator last winter and did not notice any appreciable improvement in performance. Still droopie.

To what extent does applying the silicone help improve the seal?

I've got A/C managed to do it with hood on..extremely difficult and if you've got help...remove the hood!